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Help with my nipples please!
motivforz - 23/3/15 at 10:20 PM

I've got what I believe to be a pair of m16 calipers. I believe they're connected up the conventional way:



I wanted to replace the old nipples as I've had them shear on me in the past and cause no end of hassle, and for £3 it's a nice preventative action. But, the old nipples engaged only with 3 threads - not a huge amount, but the minimum I would be happy with. The new ones have a slightly longer cone/ drilling section protruding beyond the thread, reducing the engagement to 1.5 or 2 threads, less than ideal.



Has anyone else noticed a similar fit, and are you happy with it, have you been running it for years with no issues etc? Any advice would be welcome, thanks in advance.


austin man - 23/3/15 at 10:28 PM

are they the same thread ?


perksy - 23/3/15 at 10:34 PM

Are they definetly the right nipples ?

Ive just done some calipers for a Mini and the suppliers had sent a slave cylinder nipple instead of a brake bleed nipple and that only engaged by a few threads


omega 24 v6 - 23/3/15 at 10:35 PM

Looks like L/H threads in the pictures??
You do get bleed nipples with longer sections on them so I'd shop around. i would not be happy with only 1 1/2 to 2 threads in place.


motivforz - 23/3/15 at 10:36 PM

As sure as I can be, yes. Overlaying the old and new the pitch is exactly the same over the 10 or so threads, and the major diameter is near as the same, new one slightly larger, probably due to unworn threads / lack of corrosion. The difference in thread engagement corresponds to the difference in length of the cone/drilling section.


907 - 24/3/15 at 07:09 AM

Firstly, as you can tell from my recent posts I'm no expert on brakes.

I wouldn't be happy with so few threads, in fact I'd be scared to tighten them in case they stripped.
Also, if I'm not mistaken the bolts that hold your callipers together look to have imperial markings,
and as you can just make out in the pic of mine they do have "TYPE 16" cast into them.


Having just stripped and re-sealed mine I have learned that smooth Hammerite & brake fluid don't go together.


hth
Paul G

Description
Description


motivforz - 24/3/15 at 09:41 AM

Strangely enough both images appear to show a left hand thread! The image is not mirrored though, and I can verify they are all RH threads.

I'm not happy so won't be running them until I understand what's gone wrong and get proper thread engagement, thanks for verifying my concerns!

There isn't "type 16" on the casting, but a symbol I thought was the sparco logo, or identical to the images in this post: here, which tells me it's a Girling M16?

This morning I picked up an m10x1 plug so I'll check the threadform tonight with that, but I've got a good confidence they are, I'll report back when I know.


gremlin1234 - 24/3/15 at 11:34 AM

type 16 callipers came in both imperial and metric ( 16M)
this post from clifftyhanger on a triumph forum gives details
http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?v-print/m-1334360151/

from your photos, original bleed screw looks imperial, and the replacement looks metric m10

edit:
btw its probably a girling logo that you can see

[Edited on 24/3/15 by gremlin1234]


rusty nuts - 24/3/15 at 06:59 PM

I suspect your trying nipples with an incorrect thread . Might be worth trying each nipple into a female brake pipe nut , metric and imperial to check .


motivforz - 25/3/15 at 10:19 PM

Well after a delay due to my other car failing it's MOT, I returned to this today and with a known 3/8 unf thread it went in to the same depth as the original I.e. 3 pitches. My assumption is that the threads are not fully formed all the way down and that's stopping the bolt, but the nipple cone just bottoms first.

Found "type 16" cast into one side, but no reference to "p" or "b" or m16. But I'll be getting some imperial bleed nipples now!

Thanks for your patient responses to what turned out to be a silly question!


austin man - 25/3/15 at 10:43 PM

No such thing as a silly question especially when you working on brakes and important stuff that make it stear and stop without those 2 working your screwed