Is there any wood workers out there.......
I need to build a workshop, to start my locost build......was thinking, something like 12 x 10,
apex roof.
I've seen some 8 x 4 sheets, of exterior OSB 3, and cls, for the frame work etc, on offer,
at B&Q.
Question is, will this board be up to it, if it is suitably painted etc, was going to use shiplap
timber, but wanted to channel, most of my money, into the build......
Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
I Built a 16 x 12 in 19mm shiplap for less than £1000, bigger is always better
That sounds really cheap.......
did you buy your shiplap locally, and how much was it
Bigger is better. I would concrete a proper floor and use self levelling compound on it. 3 x 2 frames and roof supports. Shiplap outer walls. If
making a car a proper floor will pay dividends when setting the car up.
I used 3 x 2 timber frames with shiplap outerwalls. I used exterior grade ply on the roof and floor of my shed and its all blown after 18 months.
Big mistake.
Certainly plan to lay down a 100mm concrete floor first......So you used external ply for the roof, and that was no good ?
One thing I would do if building a garage would be to have it large enough so that you can seperate car from your work bench/vice etc where you will
be grinding/welding/spraying etc.
Amount of dust/overspray etc created is unreal.
A friend of mine found a free sectional garage in the local rag (had to dismantle).
Built it up and then clad it in feather edge - obviously shiplap or t&g would be better, but feather edge is cheap!
Looked really good.
quote:
Originally posted by robinsoncrusoe55
Is there any wood workers out there.......
I need to build a workshop, to start my locost build......was thinking, something like 12 x 10,
apex roof.
I've seen some 8 x 4 sheets, of exterior OSB 3, and cls, for the frame work etc, on offer,
at B&Q.
Question is, will this board be up to it, if it is suitably painted etc, was going to use shiplap
timber, but wanted to channel, most of my money, into the build......
Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
A 12x10 feet shed will be exactly that a shed
my locost is 11.4' long x 5.2' wide, and was built from scratch in a ridiculously small garage of 8.5' x 17' and was a very
difficult build because of the space
now if you actually meant 12 metre x 10 metre workshop, WOW im jealous !!
Build it as big as you can. Mine is 4.6m x 3.7m, wish it was a bit bigger (don't we all). Design (don't forget to allow for facia and gutting) from the roof down and build from the ground up. This will avoid having to cut boards when fitting the roof. Once size of base is known use strip foundations with a two brick course, top brick will be the floor level. Concrete the floor (4" minimum) up to the top of the brick (this makes it easy to tamper and level) and add another two courses which the timber stud will sit on. Keep the studding in-line with the outer edge of the brick so boarding can overlap joint by 25mm. I would not use exterior OSB on the studding, just don't think it will last or look good. Shiplap is expensive but does a good job and looks way better. Price material up first, timber is expensive. Built mine for around £1100 several years ago. One thing I really like about a timber structure is they always seem inviting maybe it's the smell and the fact they never feel damp (no rusty to parts). Just be careful welding, wood does burn quite well.
All good ideas, thanks.
12 x 10 metres.........Mmmmm I wish !!!!
Size is restricted by property unfortunately
.......now where's me concrete mixer, wood saw, nails etc !!!!
I had a plan to build a shed from osb, the clad it with feather edge to keep the weather off the osb... on the durface it looks cheaper than ship lap or t&g.
company on ebay York timber products I think
quote:
Originally posted by Irony
Bigger is better. I would concrete a proper floor and use self levelling compound on it. 3 x 2 frames and roof supports. Shiplap outer walls. If making a car a proper floor will pay dividends when setting the car up.
I used 3 x 2 timber frames with shiplap outerwalls. I used exterior grade ply on the roof and floor of my shed and its all blown after 18 months. Big mistake.
The best thing I purchase was an Air Nailer and the Nails Made all the frames Lashed them together nailed them, then set to work on the boarding framework is 2x2 all tanilised also picked up a cheap sliding compound mitre saw this and the nail gun made this a on man operation. It was a lot of graft but worth it
quote:
Originally posted by HowardB
I had a plan to build a shed from osb, the clad it with feather edge to keep the weather off the osb... on the durface it looks cheaper than ship lap or t&g.
thanks for that,. I shall have a look and see
Mine was a 6x4 metre car port that grew sides. Also 3 metres high with flat roof, Max I could build without planning permission.
Check your local planning rules before starting out. As it will save you a lot in the long run if the planners make you take it down.
It shouldnt be a problem. 30Sq metres was max in my area at the time (10 years ago!), 3m high if flat roof, and 4.5m if pitched roof.
Check your local regs before starting.
You cant underestimate the usefulness of the width. You need to get around the sides of the vehicle, and need workbench space.
I agree about workspace being away from the vehicle.
Concrete base is good. But if you are doing this from scratch, it might be a good idea to put some insulation under the concrete.
or plan for a non clip floor / insulation, as your feet get very cold in the winter!
Even with my 4m wide car port, I put castor wheels under my build trolley. This was very useful as you can get a bit more space when working on one
side! Got the wheels from a cabinet that was delivered to work. They were going to put them in the bin!
Put in a pair of 9" x9" (Min) brick columns, and a RSJ across that, so you have a solid lifting point for dropping engines in and out
etc.
Engie crane might be cheaper, so do the maths!
Just my 2d's worth.
Geoff