Better to get a generic reader/reset tool from Ebay for a couple of ££, read the error code and reset.
I got one like eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
topicshop_uk
[Edited on 28/1/12 by mark chandler]
Any ideas of the most common causes?
Facts: 2002 Daihatsu Sirion 1.3
Owned by us for the last 5 and a half years without any problems at all.
Set car running this evening to thaw the screens out before driving home from work, came back to it 10 mins later and the light was on. - First time
ever.
It won't go out, tried stopping the engine and starting it again a couple of times.
Absolutely no apparent effect on performance, running etc.
Tempted to take the bulb out......
ECU's need a few cycles to reset, I suggest first option is ignition on/off a dozen times.
Better to get a generic reader/reset tool from Ebay for a couple of ££, read the error code and reset.
I got one like eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
topicshop_uk, as your car is post 96 you should have the correct plug as they were all standarised
[Edited on 28/1/12 by mark chandler]
Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes - used to clear my Saabs off.
If it's nowhere near MOT time then leave it and see what happens, the pug often does this on cold starts... Once it's warmed up well it goes out
The engine warning light is a notification that a fault exists. Resetting it by disconnecting the battery is fine but if it happens to be something
which could go on to say kill your catalytic converter then you will wish you had investigated.
The only way to work out what it means is to use a code reader - they start on ebay for less than £20 and are a worth while addition to any ones tool
box.
forget the ecu............... Daihatsu? Hit it with a sledge hammer like clarkson did that should fix it for good 
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
forget the ecu............... Daihatsu? Hit it with a sledge hammer like clarkson did that should fix it for good
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
The engine warning light is a notification that a fault exists. Resetting it by disconnecting the battery is fine but if it happens to be something which could go on to say kill your catalytic converter then you will wish you had investigated.
The only way to work out what it means is to use a code reader - they start on ebay for less than £20 and are a worth while addition to any ones tool box.
Could it be possible that the MAF or something similar has thrown a fit at the sudden coldness, or even frozen over disbling it temporarily?
Lots of fine, useful advice -thanks guys - (with the definite exception of Ashley who obviously hasn't a clue what he's talking about!) I'll see if it is still lit in the morning, then think about doing the code-reader jobbie.
If it is a spurious or one off code it may well clear after X number of drive cycles* however as the car will be OBD II compliant, I would
advise getting the fault codes read and cleared.
A drive cycle is a medium length journey from a cold start in which a minimum speed (usually 50 mph) is exceeded for a minimum required time.
A code reader or USB interface is cheap off ebay. A good but cheap hand held code scanner is the U480 made by Memoscan loads on eBay for
less than £20
quote:
Originally posted by T66
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
The engine warning light is a notification that a fault exists. Resetting it by disconnecting the battery is fine but if it happens to be something which could go on to say kill your catalytic converter then you will wish you had investigated.
The only way to work out what it means is to use a code reader - they start on ebay for less than £20 and are a worth while addition to any ones tool box.
Corrected - I did actually know what the cel on the Saab was, and was aware of what was causing it. Your very right Mook
Either buy a cheap code reader or just take it in for the garage to read......The engine management light has been flashing on my van for the last
week, been too busy to take it in until this morning......it was the brake light switch, seems iv'e had no brake lights for a week 
best
not to ignore things sometimes
Al.
i thought i was being helpful
as bt said a generic obdII reader should get the code out then you will most likely need to use the powers that be google to see what the code means.
from that point you could be lead down the garden path with red herring faults caused by something completely different to the fault code.
when i had a hole in the intercooler of my vauxhall i was getting all manner of fault codes none of which related to the intake system
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
as bt said a generic obdII reader should get the code out then you will most likely need to use the powers that be google to see what the code means. from that point you could be lead down the garden path with red herring faults caused by something completely different to the fault code.
when i had a hole in the intercooler of my vauxhall i was getting all manner of fault codes none of which related to the intake system
Had this on a Daihatsu, from freezing cold temp with 10 mins+ on idle, long term fuel trim got upset. Throws a CEL that will clear if you disconnect
battery. Won't come back unless you coast everywhere. Can also happen if your burning oil from cold. Daihatsu are fussy about their fuel trim,
why the ECU thinks a change in driving style is an error is anyones guess 
quote:
Originally posted by PeterV
Had this on a Daihatsu, from freezing cold temp with 10 mins+ on idle, long term fuel trim got upset. Throws a CEL that will clear if you disconnect battery. Won't come back unless you coast everywhere. Can also happen if your burning oil from cold. Daihatsu are fussy about their fuel trim, why the ECU thinks a change in driving style is an error is anyones guess
- never gives less than 42 mpg, and it only cost us £2000 in the first place! We had a similar issue with my Sons Polo. Altho, we could clear the fault with the VCDS (Vagcom) reader.
The Vagcom reader was complaining about Lambda sensors and Fuel readings. It wasnt unitl the car went for a MOT that they noticed a section of
exhaust pipe, after the Cat and 2nd Lambda sensor, which has a "flexi" section was Leaking. Really strange as it was giving no exhaust
blowing sounds at all. Not repairable, so replacement section was required.
On the first start afterwards, the ECU light went out and the VAGCOM reader has been clear since. I guess the loos of back pressure after the sensor
meant that the readings were not correct.
quote:
Originally posted by karlak
We had a similar issue with my Sons Polo. Altho, we could clear the fault with the VCDS (Vagcom) reader.
The Vagcom reader was complaining about Lambda sensors and Fuel readings. It wasnt unitl the car went for a MOT that they noticed a section of exhaust pipe, after the Cat and 2nd Lambda sensor, which has a "flexi" section was Leaking. Really strange as it was giving no exhaust blowing sounds at all. Not repairable, so replacement section was required.
On the first start afterwards, the ECU light went out and the VAGCOM reader has been clear since. I guess the loos of back pressure after the sensor meant that the readings were not correct.
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
quote:
Originally posted by T66
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
The engine warning light is a notification that a fault exists. Resetting it by disconnecting the battery is fine but if it happens to be something which could go on to say kill your catalytic converter then you will wish you had investigated.
The only way to work out what it means is to use a code reader - they start on ebay for less than £20 and are a worth while addition to any ones tool box.
Corrected - I did actually know what the cel on the Saab was, and was aware of what was causing it. Your very right Mook
Fair play to you - as a Saab owner myself I have become adept at resetting the CEL
Ok, disconnected the battery for 40 mins, reconnected it and it has extinguished - and hasn't come back on - had a 20 min drive picking the grand-kids, it hasn't come back on yet. Thanks, and watch this space.....
And just to add for further searches:
Should an OBD check throw-up some seemingly unrelated faults, interrogate the data (if possible) to check the voltage at the time of the fault ping.
Low battery volts can cause all sorts of sensors to be out of tolerance. I'm only guessing, but your Diahatsu will have neen ticking-over for ten
minutes, in the freezing cold, with the heater blower on max and the heated rear window on?
May be worth having the baytery tested anyway, just in case?
Same here, often get a temp reading CEL on the 9-3, pulling fuse 17 for 5 minutes resets ECU.
I have a Gendan package on the Netbook so can check CEL's first time round.
quote:
Originally posted by T66
Same here, often get a temp reading CEL on the 9-3, pulling fuse 17 for 5 minutes resets ECU.
I have a Gendan package on the Netbook so can check CEL's first time round.