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Best brush on suspension paint
BazaO - 1/12/20 at 05:55 PM

Hi, I have recently purchase a Stuart Taylor and am tyding up the front suspension paint. I don't want to remove the wishbones etc. but paint it allI in situ. I've stripped a lot back to bare metal and am going to prime it with a rust inhibiting primer followed by a matt or satin finish top coat. Spraying is not an option so I am going to use a brush. Any recommendations for the top coat, preferably a paint that flows and can be worked before going tacky and ruining the finish?
Thank, Baz


Bluemoon - 1/12/20 at 08:19 PM

Used frosts gloss extreme chassis paint, flowed well with brush no brush marks they do flat black as well might be worth a look?


steve m - 1/12/20 at 09:57 PM

Brushed paint on anything visable as in anything the public can see is not a good sign,

My cars panels were hand painted, but i kid you not, to get a hand painted panted/wing etc to look like is been sprayed, takes an enormous amount of work, paint, dry sand , paint dry sand, paint dry sand, x 3 more times, paint flat off, totally, then cut back with 120 grit, 400 gt, 600gt, 1000gt, 1200gt paper
then t cut, then polish


Smaller parts like suspension etc, i took into my loft, and spray painted them, so much better, and so much quicker!!

steve


Bluemoon - 2/12/20 at 08:05 AM

^ Frost also do rattle can versions. Steve has some good points for a proper job..


RedAvon - 2/12/20 at 08:08 AM

Hi,

When you have decided on your paint, I found that I could improve the brush finish as I don't like to see brush marks.

I think it's how coach painters used to do it, not sure, but it has worked well for me.

I now always stir the paint very well and warm it on a rad or near a fan heater then put the paint tin in a container of warm water about half way up the tin. Temperature is around what you would normally drink your cup of tea.

Also warm the metal parts, say a fan heater on the suspension for a few minutes.

I was surprised and pleased with the difference this made.

Hope this helps.

Ian


ReMan - 2/12/20 at 08:26 AM

I'd use satin, whatever it is on the black bit . It shouts less and retains its looks longer for it


JonBowden - 2/12/20 at 08:53 AM

I use POR15, it flows well so there are no brush marks


nick205 - 2/12/20 at 01:41 PM

For front wishbones I'd spend the extra time to actually remove them and either:

1. Have them properly powder coated
2. Aerosol paint with primer and satin black

IMHO they're very visible parts of the car and need to look good and look good for as long as possible. Removing them from the car isn't hard work and (again IMHO) you'll be very glad you did so you can do the job right.


Mr Whippy - 2/12/20 at 05:23 PM

I'd recommend that you remove the suspension anyway for a good visual inspection as its the kind of part that if it fails you end up in a big crash. Besides kit car parts don't tend to be the most heavily tested things in the world and failures are common. For all the time it takes to remove the front suspension its easier to clean and paint off than still on the car.


ian locostzx9rc2 - 2/12/20 at 06:20 PM

I wouldn’t brush paint them in situ it doesnt take long to remove them spraying in satin black would be my recommendation


steve m - 2/12/20 at 09:34 PM

Every year, in the winter when i had my home built locost 7, i took apart either the front end, or rear end of the car totally, allternate years
Stripped it back to bare metal, checked all my welding, primed and satin blacked all of the components

I normally used satin black enamel

I also, NEVER reused the suspension bolts and nyloc nuts, they all went in the recycling bin !

For all you who think i am mad, mmm, well im still alive, and my car never failed an mot or road test, but the engine fire, that was out of my control did finish my car off,

steve