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X flow head gasket - which one??
Nickctp - 31/3/13 at 10:23 PM

I need a new head gasket for my x flow which has been fully rebuilt. I have been browsing the usual suppliers - there are literally hundreds to choose from. Any one got any preferences? Which one is a good choice?

I know a multi layer is advisable. I don't want to spend a tenner and end up having to replace it again in 50 miles, on the other hand I don't want to spend £150 when just £50 will do - but of course I won't the right one!

May sound a bit of a silly question but there are so many to choose from.

Cheers guys

Nick


Westy1994 - 31/3/13 at 10:27 PM

The only the only job I have had to do on the engine to date, but I fitted a Payen one ( I thinks thats the spelling of it) been fine, fairly cheap as well, unless you planning on taking the head off every week, leave the copper ones alone...


ianclark1275 - 31/3/13 at 10:41 PM

we (dad and i) are building a standard locost and use a 1300 Xflow.

payen CH750 set should be fine.

i use payen gaskets on the race mini and they are fine.

black with silver rings.

ive had problems with the "copper" ones before.


in my experience, the gaskets are not the root cause of head gasket failure, its usually heat warping something, either block or head. if both are machined flat you wont have a problem.



IC


ianclark1275 - 31/3/13 at 10:42 PM

wow, 2 fairly similar answers there!

i didnt see the prev post when i started typing...

IC


Westy1994 - 31/3/13 at 10:50 PM

LOL Ian, how many races did the copper last for, mine was 3 with 3 removal of head's. They are ok for using twice or so I think, they may need re-aneeling again or something for more use, overheating killed most of mine on the racecar


Nickctp - 1/4/13 at 07:58 AM

Cheers chaps!!

N


Nickctp - 1/4/13 at 07:59 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Westy1994
LOL Ian, how many races did the copper last for, mine was 3 with 3 removal of head's. They are ok for using twice or so I think, they may need re-aneeling again or something for more use, overheating killed most of mine on the racecar


Westy,

What spec X Flow are you runnig in your 7??

N


Paul Turner - 1/4/13 at 10:41 AM

Over the years I used about 3 types of gasket on my x-flows and some were better than others.

The standard ones (Payen etc) were cheap and I never had a problem even with a 145bhp 1660 engine but they tended to stick to the head and block making routine maintenance very messy.

The Copper/Asbestos type were also cheap and always came off clean but they did not seal particularly well round the oil ways. They were also 1/2 the thickness of the standard type thus could give a useful CR increase or alternatively cause valve/piston contact if clearances were tight.

The last type I bought was the Adjusa from Burton Power, brilliant. Slightly more expensive than the others but sealed perfectly and left no residue to clean off and a strip down. Same thickness as the standard one.


britishtrident - 1/4/13 at 11:23 AM

Head gasket choice isn't that critical Kent engines, blown head gaskets on Kent engines are almost unknown.


Westy1994 - 1/4/13 at 11:29 AM

Nick,

The motor in the 7 is completely standard , but the copper gasket issue I refer to was in another car, but it was still of the same 'old school' pushrod motor that the Xflow is, was a Truimph to be exact. Seems the Payen one is popular as well , but Burtons do have good stuff, I wouldn't use any thing else when it comes to the Sump gasket ( their competition one).

Hope that's of some help..


stevebubs - 1/4/13 at 03:26 PM

When I had an Xflow, I used Wilcox for everything I could - advice freely given over the phone and he advised what parts based on expected use of the engine....


Paul Turner - 1/4/13 at 04:08 PM

quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
When I had an Xflow, I used Wilcox for everything I could - advice freely given over the phone and he advised what parts based on expected use of the engine....


I used Wilcox once, just the once. Bought a flywheel form them and took them a clutch and crank so they could balance as a unit. Rather than doing it part by part they simply drilled the clutch cover until it was balanced, had to pay again to get it done correctly, should have taken it back but it would have cost me more than using a local guy who did it correctly. While I was there I bought a new timing chain, two years later during a precautionary re-build I found that it was held together with only half a link at one point, not impressed.