Hi all newbie to the site.
Im looking for some help as im struggling to get my R1 turbo to run its all built but having issues with it running it will start on choke but as its
warming up it doesnt want to idle or rev through wants to cut out and then when warm its very hard to start ive change the carbs as thought maybe a
problem with them but made no diffrence im pretty sure its not a fuel issue and im now at the point of i dont know what to do next any help would be
much appreciated thanks Mark
Just converted same engine,but gone over to fuel injection.
Any pics of your carb set up?
Hi bud not to hand but will get some shortly
Got any pictures of your set-up?
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Am7Ip6n7LslJkUDO_8TxgJ0sy19Q
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Am7Ip6n7LslJkUFsYaFwEdZcxc7p
Have you tried running it without the turbo plenum connected?
Just whip the silicone bends off the carbs and see how it runs then
No mate I've not will it run OK like that without plenum
Yeah it will be just like it was standard, air entering through the carbs
OK I will give that a shot get back to you cheers
Yeah if it runs fine with plenum disconnected you then know it's something wrong with the actual turbo/plenum set up.
Just had a thought,have you checked it's charging properly once running?
As you have no battery light on bike clocks you don't get a warning if the charging system is OK.
Common fault on the old R1 looms to have bad connections on either the multiplug into bottom of regulater, or the multiplug where stator wire plugs
into main loom
[Edited on 13/6/17 by CosKev3]
Looking at the photo is this in some kind of 4wd kart?
If so more photos please!
I'm rubbish with carbs so probably can't help with your problem but I'm sure others will be along who have more experience with them
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Yeah if it runs fine with plenum disconnected you then know it's something wrong with the actual turbo/plenum set up.
Just had a thought,have you checked it's charging properly once running?
As you have no battery light on bike clocks you don't get a warning if the charging system is OK.
Common fault on the old R1 looms to have bad connections on either the multiplug into bottom of regulater, or the multiplug where stator wire plugs into main loom
[Edited on 13/6/17 by CosKev3]
Ah right.
Are all electrical connections to CDU and sensors OK?
Has the engine had any work done,as in a rebuild/compression lowered etc?
quote:
Originally posted by hobbsy
Looking at the photo is this in some kind of 4wd kart?
If so more photos please!
I'm rubbish with carbs so probably can't help with your problem but I'm sure others will be along who have more experience with them
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Ah right.
Are all electrical connections to CDU and sensors OK?
Has the engine had any work done,as in a rebuild/compression lowered etc?
No it can't be to do with the carbs not pressurising, as that will only happen when the turbo is creating boost.
At idle the carbs should work just the same as they do on a non turbo engine,and by removing the plenum the engine should have run just the same as a
standard R1 engine.
Have you stripped the carbs to clean them etc?
Also they will need rejetting and the needle heights altering for the charged set up?
[Edited on 15/6/17 by CosKev3]
What sort of set up do you have to match the fuel pressure to boost pressure?
I've converted to injection,as I didn't fancy the hassle of rejetting the carbs and the fact you can't alter the timing on the original R1 CDU
quote:
I've converted to injection,as I didn't fancy the hassle of rejetting the carbs and the fact you can't alter the timing on the original R1 CDU
quote:
Originally posted by SJ
quote:
I've converted to injection,as I didn't fancy the hassle of rejetting the carbs and the fact you can't alter the timing on the original R1 CDU
Sorry - that was a question for the OP.
Stu
quote:
Originally posted by SJ
What sort of set up do you have to match the fuel pressure to boost pressure?
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
No it can't be to do with the carbs not pressurising, as that will only happen when the turbo is creating boost.
At idle the carbs should work just the same as they do on a non turbo engine,and by removing the plenum the engine should have run just the same as a standard R1 engine.
Have you stripped the carbs to clean them etc?
Also they will need rejetting and the needle heights altering for the charged set up?
[Edited on 15/6/17 by CosKev3]
Soooo hard to diagnose without seeing it.
Fuel pumps ok?
When it struggles to start afterwards perhaps whip a plug out and see if it's wet?
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Soooo hard to diagnose without seeing it.
Fuel pumps ok?
When it struggles to start afterwards perhaps whip a plug out and see if it's wet?
Next time it does it remove the plugs one at a time and check if the plugs are wet/sooty and check you get a spark on all cylinders.
At least then should be able to narrow down which cylinder is misfiring.
If you have a spark on all four cylinders and none of the plugs are wet then you can explore the carb relating to that cylinder.
They are not hard to strip down and clean all jets/air correctors etc.
That's the weird thing carbs have been stripped down cleaned several times and now it's a 2nd set of carbs and still the same when miss fires it tends to be cylinder 4 all the plugs seem to be ok. Everytime I work on it I always end up back at the carbs thinking I've done something wrong when setting it up I.e the piping of it I've not adjusted the needle height but don't think that would cause the problem
[Edited on 17/6/17 by r1waterboy]
Check you have a spark on cylinder four I would,could be a lead breaking down,or a coil pack.
The other thing worth checking if it is a spark issue there is a resistor in the end of the spark plug boot.
If you look up inside the spark plug boot where it clips onto spark plug you will see you can undo the brass holder with a flat screwdriver.
Unscrew it and check for corrosion and you can check resistor with a multimeter.
Another handy tool for setting up your idle fuel mixture is a digital thermometer, they are peanuts on ebay.
Use it to compare temps of the headers,this will give you a good indication of how the cylinders are working.
Ok I will try a few things tomorrow
Im back sorry for not been back in touch other matters took over and kart had to be put aside. so nothing has changed still have the same issues can anyone suggest anything else to try and get to the bottom of this as getting to the stage iwhere i only see 1 outcome back to non turbo thanks.
Going back to non turbo won't sort it!
As you have run it up with the plenum off so it was running non turbo then,just sucking air in through the carbs
It's driving me mad only been at garage 1hr lol