Hellfire
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 04:38 PM |
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Most logical place to fit an aftermarket oil pressure/temperature gauge is to fit a tee-piece where the original bike oil pressure gauge is and then
mount the aftermarket gauge to the spare tee. With regards to the mesh, you want something that's small enough to protect your radiator from
stone strikes and the like but at the same time allow sufficient air for cooling. Just try a mesh with larger holes than what you currently have
fitted.
A high performance radiator won't be cheap and there's no reason why your current set-up shouldn't work.
Phil
[Edited on 12-2-12 by Hellfire]
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Studlygudfuk
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 05:22 PM |
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ZX12 motors get very hot when they are not coolant burped properly. Recheck your system that you do not have an air lock somewhere . Check your set up
to ensure its routing & positioning does not incite an airlock.
Removing the oil/water exchanger will make the system run cooler but you would obviously wanna install an oil cooler which gives further opportunity
to improve the oil temps too.
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Studlygudfuk
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 05:30 PM |
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ZX12 motors get very hot when they are not coolant burped properly. Recheck your system that you do not have an air lock somewhere . Check your set up
to ensure its routing & positioning does not incite an airlock.
Removing the oil/water exchanger will make the system run cooler but you would obviously wanna install an oil cooler which gives further opportunity
to improve the oil temps too.
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Doyleee
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 08:34 PM |
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Ill have a look to see if pipes are routed properly make sure no kinks etc
I understand what phil is saying about letting heat escape by drilling holes but if on my last session at snetterton (new Track) i had the bonnet off
in pouring rain conditions and still heating up.
Has anyone removed oil water exchanger and installed oil cooler in this or similar set-up?
Many thanks to those who have contributed to this topic it helps talking it through with others 
[Edited on 12/2/12 by Doyleee]
[Edited on 12/2/12 by Doyleee]
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Studlygudfuk
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 08:17 AM |
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I believe Big CC & Muzzys on their Turbo 12's do an oil filter relocation kit to fit the turbo's on the bikes. That removes the
exchanger & you need only break the line from the oil filter to insert a more efficient oil cooler.
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SausageArm
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 12:00 PM |
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Here's my ZX10R cooling sytem plumbing
You'll need to speak to someone like BigCC to buy an external oil filter relocation kit
http://www.bigccracing.com/shop/product.asp?idproduct=302
then to the oil filter mount use one of these
that will give you thermostatically controlled feed/return take offs for your oil cooler.
fitted it'll look something like this
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 10:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Doyleee
No not got manual Dangle_kt ,if you could look it up would much appreciate it
From memory the radiator fan switch opens at 93c and closes at 89c as i said its off nissan micra, I changed fan switch because was not cutting in so
hence why put manual overide switch but as jon said racing at over 100mph should do more than fan would.
I dont know if this helps or not but in traffic, gauge does go up quite high sometimes flashes on hot day but blast it and cools slightly.
Hi,
Just cheked
thermostat opens at 62c
it says somewhere between 100-110c the fan kicks in
and the fan switches off somewhere between 97-103c
Therefore I think its safe to say a good normal operating temp should be lower or similar to the fan switch off temp
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Doyleee
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 11:02 PM |
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Thanks guys most helpful
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Moorron
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| posted on 15/2/12 at 08:56 PM |
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My zx12 runs hot too, but i have a few side shots in mine that might be giving me false worries. First off i was running a 95-86 fan switch and i was
noticing my fan would be on far too much so i changed it to a 95-90 which did help. But after finding out the temps posted above it looks like i need
a 103-98 switch in my polo rad to allow me to monitor the fan correctly.
One other problem is im using an after market temp gauge with its sender in the top hose just before the rad, i would see 120 c on it in traffic so i
checked it against the original sender (no zx12 clocks) using the table in the bikes service manual to see what the aftermarket gauge read compared to
what i think is the bike clocks temp and also noting the fan switch on and off point AND with an infra red temp probe. Im still no clearer on the
matter, needing to borrow the bike clocks would help some and fitting the right fans switch might do me.
I was running a 2003 engine which i didnt seem to have to many problems but have since replaced it with a 2001 engine which is the one i worry about.
But one more note to give, i have plumbed the oil cooler to make it neat in the engine bay so the hot exit water from the oil cooler enters the cold
return from the rad to pump hose. Looking at the service manual this it wrong, the bike setup has this hot water exit the oil cooler and enter the rad
at the bottom but still needing the water to pass thru the rad to cool.
So im assuming my setup is not as effecient as the bike setup, allowing hot water to exit the oil cooler and enter the pump and engine without any
cooling. As the pipe diameter of the oil cooler is 1/3 of the main hoses i can assum this means 1/3 of the hot water is never getting cooled by the
rad, making the fan (which i did upgrade to little effect) less effective too.
Have you or any of the other zx12 owners run the oil cooler water exit pipe to the rad top hose or do like me to make it nice and neat?
Also check the fueling, i can but you might be running leaner than me for peak power which will make the engine run hotter.
I also replaced the thermostate but that only made me take the engine apart to remove the broken bolts on the housing  .
To check flow, before starting the engine open the expansion bottle top, start the engine and you should see water that cant get past the closed
thermostat run out of the thermostat housing bleed hole into the bottle, this will soon slow or stop when the thermostat opens but a slight increase
in throttle should make it reapear showing good flow or pressue to push the water into the rad when hot.
Sorry about my spelling, im an engineer and only work in numbers.
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Doyleee
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 10:46 PM |
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Cheers moorron sorry for late reply will check water flow when get back round garage, i also bought infa-red thermometer but not used yet as mates
re-doing wheels so cant move car out of garage to check it good luck with cooling yours if i get anywhere will let you know and let me know how you
dget on 
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eddbaz
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 01:01 PM |
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I found exactly the same as Hellfire when I was having similar problems with overheating of my zx12r lump,changed the mesh on the grill and cut some
vents on the top of the bonnet towards the rear,made a massive different.
Apparently fitting flared section to the side panels makes a noticeble difference to,I will be doing this in due course.
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