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Author: Subject: XE Pressure Relief Valve
Wheels244

posted on 15/6/12 at 05:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ben_Copeland
Unfortunately not.... More expensive.

BUT............


You can fit a late pump which has better internals etc. because you haven't got a backing plate.

You can also get a OE replacement one off eBay (seller:trechii) who I used for most of the bits for mine. Early one is £60 odd.


I've had a quick look.

Are these definately OE Ben ? They're a lot cheaper.

Which one do I need ?


VAUXHALL ASTRA CALIBRA CAVALIER C20XE REDTOP OIL PUMP | eBay

or


VAUXHALL ASTRA CALIBRA CAVALIER C20XE LATE OIL PUMP | eBay

My engine number 20XE140349** doesn't seem to match up with either

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Wheels244

posted on 15/6/12 at 05:20 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by perksy
Gawd the standard pumps have gone up


There are others out there to supply the oil pump, so a search on Google might be a way forward
QED are another worth contacting and it might be worth trying the local engine builders/re-con engine suppliers

*If* this is going to be a good spec' XE and you will doing some track days then Dry sumping is a very good insurance policy
It ain't cheap though and you'll be over a grand before you know it (had the SBD (Pace) Dry sump set-up on mine)


Hi Perksy

I got a dry sump pan with the car

Same as this one

http://qedmotorsport.co.uk/qed-shop/vauxhall-xe-c20xe/lubrication/cast-alloy-dry-sump-pan-qed-with-fittings

That remove some of the cost - what do you think it would take price wise to complete the job ?

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 15/6/12 at 05:32 PM Reply With Quote
First link. Its got 20xe cavalier in the list of compats.

Checked with Vauxhall your number is definately early engine which we knew anyway

I emailed you the link to correct auction.





Ben

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Wheels244

posted on 15/6/12 at 05:36 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Ben, much appreciated.

What's your view on dry sumping ?
I don't want to have to go through this too often or even worse, lose oil pressure when giving it some and kiss goodbye to the engine.

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 15/6/12 at 05:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Wheels244
Thanks Ben, much appreciated.

What's your view on dry sumping ?
I don't want to have to go through this too often or even worse, lose oil pressure when giving it some and kiss goodbye to the engine.



If your racing or spending all day on the track then dry sump it but it's horrendously expensive.

If your roading it and just the occasional track day don't bother.

What sump have you got on it?





Ben

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Wheels244

posted on 15/6/12 at 05:51 PM Reply With Quote
Westfield wet sump

westfield_sump_2
westfield_sump_2

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 15/6/12 at 06:06 PM Reply With Quote
Same as mine. If you do change I'll buy your sump as mine has been welded (cracked) before





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Wheels244

posted on 15/6/12 at 06:23 PM Reply With Quote
Even though it's a shallow pan it is still rather close to the road - that's another reason me for considering dry sumping.

Did you ground yours to cause the crack ?

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 15/6/12 at 06:59 PM Reply With Quote
I didn't. It's Westfield owner did. I got bottom end with sump.





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stevegough

posted on 15/6/12 at 08:18 PM Reply With Quote
Just to add a few comments - I fitted a QED supplied pump, and the oil pressure has been perfect ever since - just to re-iterate, I had lots of oil pressure problems leading up to this. Not 100% certain this is the one for yours, though.

QED pump

Also, 'nige' asked about why do you need the V5 if the date is cast into the block - the answer is that the IVA inspector requires written proof (that wording is in the IVA manual) of the age of the engine.

Hence, basically because 'THEY' say so.

When you are talking about your shopping list - I have a vague recollection that I had to replace my front crankshaft oil seal when I replaced the pump, but I can't remember if the reason was that it was leaking, (which it was) or if you have to replace it when you replace the pump? I'm sure Ben will enlighten us soon.





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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Wheels244

posted on 15/6/12 at 08:24 PM Reply With Quote
What sort of power is yours kicking out Steve ?

Consensus from firms I've spoken to so far say non OE pumps are ok for standardish engines but stick with OE for tuned ones.

With the work that's been done on my engine I think you may see tears if I blow it up

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 15/6/12 at 08:47 PM Reply With Quote
It's one of those seals that you might as well do while it's off, bastard if it leaks after.





Ben

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stevegough

posted on 15/6/12 at 08:49 PM Reply With Quote
sorry, completely standard. 150bhp - but its enough for me! Maybe you'd better get a quality one?





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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Wheels244

posted on 15/6/12 at 09:03 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stevegough
sorry, completely standard. 150bhp - but its enough for me! Maybe you'd better get a quality one?


My R1 MNR was about 150bhp and that was plenty

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Wheels244

posted on 15/6/12 at 09:05 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ben_Copeland
It's one of those seals that you might as well do while it's off, bastard if it leaks after.


Does the pump not come with a seal fitted ?

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 15/6/12 at 10:07 PM Reply With Quote
Not sure, suppose it's something to ask when buying.





Ben

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perksy

posted on 15/6/12 at 11:00 PM Reply With Quote
Front crank oil seals are usually ok (should come with the new pump)
It's the Rear crank seals that are famous for leaking on the XE

As for the dry sump question, aswell as the sump you would need the tank, pump,modified crank pulley, hoses & fittings etc and that will probably come to around £750 ish
Secondhand would be cheaper *If* you can source the bits

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 16/6/12 at 05:48 AM Reply With Quote
Vauxhall C20XE Dry sump system kit

Vauxhall C20XE Dry sump system kit | eBay

Not cheap £1000+
Parts you will need on top
remote oil filter
oil tank
pipe work
oil cooler if used
catch tank if used

[Edited on 16/6/12 by Ben_Copeland]





Ben

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Wheels244

posted on 23/6/12 at 11:34 AM Reply With Quote
Well, I bit the bullet and bought a new pump from the supplier on eBay - advert stated its OE - It isn't !

"We have over 35 years experience in the motor trade all our products are from OE Manufacturers. "

Check out the pics.


Autopump
Autopump


Clearly an Autopumps one - exactly the one that Autovaux said not to put in a tuned engine.


Oil pump front
Oil pump front



Oil Pump Rear
Oil Pump Rear



So what's the consensus ?

Will it be ok with the uprated steel gear that I will transfer out of my old pump ? Is this the only weak link in the pump or is there something else ?

or

Return it and get shafted for £250 for an OE one?

or

Sell a kidney and dry sump it ?

[Edited on 23/6/12 by Wheels244]

[Edited on 23/6/12 by Wheels244]

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 24/6/12 at 09:03 PM Reply With Quote
Oh dear, thats a bit of a let down....

Why did autovaux say they were no good?





Ben

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Wheels244

posted on 24/6/12 at 09:12 PM Reply With Quote
They said they're ok in standard engines, but he wouldn't put one in a tuned engine - he didn't elaborate why, just said they're not up to use in a tuned engine.

I've Googled myself stupid and they don't get a good write up in the boy racer world of fitting red tops in tin tops - or are these just the people that haven't put their engines together properly moaning ?

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stevegough

posted on 24/6/12 at 09:27 PM Reply With Quote
Well, at the end of the day, an oil pump supplies oil at high pressure - whether in a tuned or standard engine - just like a car gets you from A to B - whether its a Rolls or a Kia Picanto. What the hell am I trying to say here?
I dunno.
Your call I guess.





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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Wheels244

posted on 24/6/12 at 09:33 PM Reply With Quote
I suppose Steve I'm waiting for someone to tell me to stop being a fanny and get it fitted.

And, if it was a standard engine I would, but the engine has been fully rebuilt to high standard and good spec using all new parts - I would hate to munch it through lack of oil pressure.

I used to be indecisive - but now I've changed my mind !!

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Ben_Copeland

posted on 24/6/12 at 09:52 PM Reply With Quote
It seems it's the gears that are the weak link, which you've got stronger ones anyway. Plus the SBD relief valve. You should be good.





Ben

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perksy

posted on 24/6/12 at 09:53 PM Reply With Quote
The standard pump has 2 issues on a performance engine, The gears can break uo and the oil pressure releif valve can stick
There's plenty of XE's out there with big power engines running a normal oil pump with modified gears and pressure releif valve

Dry sumping is the answer *if* you want to spend the money as it provides an insurance policy, then all you need to worry about is a stone getting to the dry sump pump belt

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