Confused but excited.
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| posted on 20/11/12 at 07:15 PM |
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Not got ant wood in my bathroom but I have two exterior doors in hardwood. The front door faces east and therefore gets a battering in winter when the
wind and rain blow directly in off the sea. I do it once every couple of years with three coats of Rustins Danish Oil and after 14 years, it looks
like new.
My back door, which is more protected was done last time with yacht varnish. It didn't last the winter before it started peeling off.
So one more vote for Rustins Danish Oil.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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Xtreme Kermit
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| posted on 20/11/12 at 10:53 PM |
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I loved our wooden kitchen top. Beach block from a well know kitchen supplier.
Oiled with Tung oil once or twice a year after a wire wooling. Was great!
(remember through role tinted specs as it did split a little across a couple of the blocks near the butler, but overall it looked great)
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trextr7monkey
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| posted on 20/11/12 at 11:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by swanny
Iroko:
(from Wikipedia)
The tree is feared in some cultures where it originates and hence is shunned or revered with offerings.[3] Yoruba people believe that the tree is
inhabited by a spirit, and anybody who sees the Iroko-man face to face becomes insane and speedily dies.[4] According to the Yoruba, any man who cuts
down any Iroko tree causes devastating misfortune on himself and all of his family.[4] They also claim that the spirit of the Iroko can be heard in
houses which use Iroko wood, as the spirit of the Iroko is trapped in the wood.[4] There are other trees in Nigeria which have the same claims by the
Yoruba people.
Blimey! I'll stick with Walnut 
Like a lot of the mumbo jumbo bollox it may be tentatively connected with the facts- what they need to be scared of is the dust if working with iroko
for long periods, it is a carcinogen and fairly irritating, we use it at work but have a decent dust extraction system. Over the years we have had
several alerts re the issues associated with the timber but it is bomb proof!!
atb
Mike
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 21/11/12 at 12:34 AM |
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I have two Bathroom tables (the ones where the lavatory is installed, Don´t know the name) both are made with Frijolillo (Tropical wood).
I made one and used Gorilla Glue (Polyurethane Based Glue) this one is as the day I glued it, but the finish is rubbish (i did it with PU transparent
Varnish)
The other one I commissioned it and even as I asked for water proof glue, I don´t know what they used, the glue line has faied at a couple of places,
but the finish -the same varnish, is good, this finish was applied by the carpenter.
I would recommend the same, If you must use more than one piece, use PU based glue, here in mexico we use a base varnish called "Sellador"
(Sealer) and then the finish of choice, PU Varnish is extremely good for boat finishes, so it is more than enough for the duty it has on my Bathroom
tables.
Hope this helpes.
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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swanny
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| posted on 15/12/12 at 08:06 PM |
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quite a few people on here suggestiong rustins for worktops. but i have a quick question are you using the nomal rustins danish oil on the worktops or
the specific rustins worktop oil?
Paul
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smart51
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| posted on 15/12/12 at 09:07 PM |
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Iroko is lovely. I made a bench from it. It has greyed now but shows no ill effects from being left outside all year round.
 
Rescued attachment bench small.JPG
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JoelP
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| posted on 15/12/12 at 10:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by swanny
quite a few people on here suggestiong rustins for worktops. but i have a quick question are you using the nomal rustins danish oil on the worktops or
the specific rustins worktop oil?
Paul
I've used both. I found the specific worktop version to be nasty and sticky, and doesnt smell nice. The other stuff says dont use on food
surfaces, but its far superior, and its not like youd make a sandwich on its whilst its still wet! Once its soaked in and dried, im confident there
would be no transfer to food.
I should add smart51, thats a f**king nice bench! Good job.
[Edited on 15/12/12 by JoelP]
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mcerd1
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| posted on 17/12/12 at 08:28 AM |
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I've now found this stuff: http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/
its basically danish oil + resin, goes on glossy but can be made satin or matt (either with the matting agent added to the top coat or just sand it or
rub it down with wire wool)
got a can of it the other day so I'll let you know how I get on........
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theprisioner
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| posted on 17/12/12 at 09:02 AM |
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Howdens hardwood worktop sealer
The last time I was in Howdens they had a new 2 pack hardwood worktop sealer. One of the problems with the normal sealer is it takes 6 coats and that
adds to the fitting time/cost of these worktops. Apparently this new stuff puts a hard shine 2 pack type seal with fewer coats. It can be flattened
off with fine abrasive I believe. I can get more details if intersted. (I fit kitchens sometimes).
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mcerd1
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| posted on 17/12/12 at 10:04 AM |
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^^ I'd like to see more details please  - it might give me an alternative if the stuff I've got won't do the job...
the Le Tonkinois stuff I've got to try is a single part varnish thats only suppossed to need ~3 coats (5 max.)
its very old fashoned so takes while to dry between coats, but you can paint it on over the top of dainish oil without having to remove it
also there is a matting agent you can add to the top coat if you can't be bothered flattening it off to get a matt/satin finish
[Edited on 17/12/2012 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 17/12/2012 by mcerd1]
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