smart51
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 02:05 PM |
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The problem with a bike engine / clutch in a car is pulling away from rest. Because internal combustion engines will stall at low speeds, you slip
the clutch at higher engine speeds until the vehcile has accelerated enough so that the road speed and RPM match the overall gearing ratio.
Your BEC and driver will weigh nearly twice as much as the bike and rider would. Your final drive and car wheels, depending on your choices, make
make up for half of that.
Your BEC will accelerate off the line only 2/3 as fast as the bike so the cluch will have to slip for 50% longer, giving more wear. Not only that but
because the car is slower, you are likely to use more of the engine's available torque to pull away than you might on a bike.
Yes, your eninge is still rated at 110Nm and 150 BHP, but you are going to use a higher percentage of this on a regular basis than on a bike.
It's not a case of maximum ratings as much as duty cycle that causes high clutch wear on a BEC.
[Edited on 26-4-2005 by smart51]
[Edited on 27-4-2005 by smart51]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 02:12 PM |
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Which is exactly what I said but yours is better worded 
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Peteff
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 04:26 PM |
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You don't have a 12lb flywheel on a bike engine to keep up the momentum.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Digger Barnes
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 06:46 PM |
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This may be a bit of a red herring if you are using a motorcycle only engine oil, but..
I noticed that oil had been briefly discussed. It is not rumour that some oils cause clutch slip. On my last bike I used fully synthetic car oil when
I changed my clutch it only lasted a week!. With a bit of research I found out that fully synth car oils have teflon in them to reduce friction, the
last thing that you want with a wet clutch as the teflon embeds itself in the friction material totally knackering it. IIRC the oils with teflon in
them have JP printed in small letters at the bottom of the label somewhere.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 07:00 PM |
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Yep, although most car oils are a no-no with a wet clutch, you need oil that is SG rated which is an indicator that suitable for bike wet clutches,
many fully synthetic oils are SG rated though.
[Edited on 26/4/05 by ChrisGamlin]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 07:03 PM |
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There's quite a decent write up about bike oils on the Redline Website, it even mentions BECs
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Digger Barnes
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 07:14 PM |
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Yep that seems to be about it, a nice little explanation. But no mention of the nasty little teflon additive in some expensive car oils
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andy d (rizla)
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| posted on 1/5/05 at 04:26 PM |
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well ive just fitted a ebc kevlar clutch(inc new plates)and the barnett springs,never knew how easy a job that was after a good road test i can
report that the clutch feels far more positive and only slightly heavier pedal(hardly noticeable) glad i fitted it now ready for some track day
action
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Digger Barnes
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| posted on 1/5/05 at 05:26 PM |
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Yep I'll go along with that bike engines are a dream to work on compared big heavy lumps of car engines.
Clutches are a doddle a few bolts and screws hey presto done.
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tks
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| posted on 2/5/05 at 12:06 PM |
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ok,
on the other hand...
in the live time of a car vehicle you only need often to take it of once...
and if it is an diesel less...
More revs better driveability (more speed choices...in curves..)
Think about the fact 160Hp @ 4500Rpm (diesel)
160HP @ 7000 Rom (X Flow???? well tuned)
160HP @ 10.500 Rpm... Bike engine..
Well??
TKS
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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