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Author: Subject: Problems with R1 Setup
bassett

posted on 7/1/09 at 10:43 PM Reply With Quote
Problems with R1 Setup

Hi can anyone confirm i've got my clutch cable and gear change cable correct(R1 -2/03)- here are the pics

Heres the clutch cable


Heres the Gear change cable(pulls with the arm facing to the bottom and goes to the left/down paddleshift)


Reason i ask is ours are mega stiff. Is there anything that could be making them stiff to the point we cant change gear when not running or should it be like that as we want to get it into neutral to start.

Cheers
Adam





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sonic

posted on 7/1/09 at 10:51 PM Reply With Quote
Hello
I have a 2001 R1 engine in mine

The clutch lever may be wrong

Mine has two dots which have to line up
There is one dot on the lever and one on the casing.
Make sure they are lined up,if not you have to drain the oil out taking the casing off and refit so they line up.you may need a new gasket for the casing i did.

My clutch is very light and it has the uprated springs,it is difficult to change gear stood still without the engine running,either start it up and try or get somebody to rock the car backwards and forwards and see if it selects a gear.

Cheers

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A1

posted on 7/1/09 at 10:53 PM Reply With Quote
for the clutch, theres a wee dot on the back of the arm, and a triangle on the casing, these need to be in line, or you risk pulling the clutch spring plate back on itself, and it wont work...if you take the casing a wee bit off, then rotate the arm (keeping some pressure on the case) youll feel the case lift of and go back down as the cogs merge. keep doing this until the marks are in line.

for the gears, when you look at the back of the gearbox (ie from the drivers seat), you turn the sprocket anti-clockwise to change up,clockwise to change down.

hope this helps!

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ReMan

posted on 7/1/09 at 11:01 PM Reply With Quote
Don't know the R! but the arm looks wrong side of 90deg if that is at rest?
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bassett

posted on 7/1/09 at 11:02 PM Reply With Quote
Hi, thanks for speedy replies guys.
I will check these markings tomorrow after work. Clutch casing is off at the moment as something went ping when we were fiddling(see other post R1 clutch) so i will try and line it up.

A1 our gear change is as youve mentioned so one together will try spinning the wheels to see if it gets us out of gear as its currently trying to start in a gear and we cant change so havent got a clue which one lol.

Cheers
Adam





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bassett

posted on 7/1/09 at 11:04 PM Reply With Quote
Reman thats with the clutch pressed? Can anyone confirm its the right way round?





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ReMan

posted on 7/1/09 at 11:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bassett
Reman thats with the clutch pressed? Can anyone confirm its the right way round?


If that's pressed, that looks about right.
You can over -press these though and you might want to fit a stop to the clutch pedal...
Ooops, too late

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A1

posted on 7/1/09 at 11:25 PM Reply With Quote
yea, its meant to face in towards the engine...
the markings line up when the clutch is at rest...

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stuart_g

posted on 7/1/09 at 11:28 PM Reply With Quote
Yes it is the right way round. My 05 R1 is the same.
The clutch should be light to operate due to the incresed leverage of the clutch pedal.

[Edited on 7/1/09 by stuart_g]

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jambo

posted on 7/1/09 at 11:29 PM Reply With Quote
JUST HAD THE SAME PROBLEM GETTING BACK TO NEUTRAL WITH MINE ALTHOUGH ZX10 I HAVE PUT IT DOWN TO BEING STIFF NOT BEING OPPERATED LATELY.
TRY WAGLING THE GEAR PEG BACK AND FORTH WITH A PAIR OF LARGE GRIPS THIS WORKED FOR ME AS ITS MORE OF A DIRECT FORCE TAKEING OUT ANY SLACK WITH MOVEMENT OF THE CABLE BRACKETS ETC.

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jimgiblett

posted on 8/1/09 at 12:57 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sonic

Mine has two dots which have to line up
There is one dot on the lever and one on the casing.
Make sure they are lined up,if not you have to drain the oil out taking the casing off and refit so they line up.you may need a new gasket for the casing i did.

Cheers


If the dots dont line up just remove the arm via the circlip and refit in the appropriate position and refit circlip. 2 minute job.

The actuator arm should move a few degrees before starting to pull releasing the clutch. Make sure when the pedal is not depressed that there is some slack else you will be going through clutch plates quickly.

- Jim

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nitram38

posted on 8/1/09 at 04:00 AM Reply With Quote
I have an 05 engine and I have changed my clutch to hydraulic.
To ensure that I got a "proper" clutch pedal travel (full pedal range) I have a wilwood pull slave and matched wilwood master. I have lengthened the clutch arm to give me the correct pedal and removed the freeplay.
There is quite a lot of freeplay on the clutch arm before it starts to operate on a bike. I think that this is to allow your hand to gain some mechanical advantage on the bike before operating.

Description
Description


[Edited on 8/1/2009 by nitram38]






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bassett

posted on 8/1/09 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers for all the advice guys will try putting it together tonight
Adam





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ChrisGamlin

posted on 9/1/09 at 11:58 PM Reply With Quote
Why don't you make up a bracket somewhere near the lower engine mounts on the side of the gearbox where you have that engine mount shown, then remove the arm as Jim says, turn it round on the splines about 90 degrees anticlockwise so its pointing away from the engine, then you can have a very short (~50cm) almost straight clutch cable run between lever and pedal, rather than one about 1.5m long looping round the engine bay.

I thought I had some photos of my setup somewhere but cant find them at the mo.

Edit: Here's a pic of Richard Mile's Striker, you can just about make out the cable run but not the lever itself.



cheers
Chris


[Edited on 10/1/09 by ChrisGamlin]






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