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Author: Subject: HELP! Whats the best 2.0 engine to fit?
locosttroubles

posted on 5/3/09 at 12:15 AM Reply With Quote
HELP! Whats the best 2.0 engine to fit?

Hi all, first time here. Basically i'm at the beginning of welding a chassis based on the Haynes Roadster book. I had hoped (dreamed) to use a Hayabusa or a V8 (wildest dreams!) engine but money and practicality has pushed me towards something like a two litre ford. Don't know much about Ford engines but see plenty of dura this and ze that for smallish money on ebay. I want something with plenty of grunt and noise, very very quick, reliable and tunable too (possibly fit a turbo down the line). Any ideas or help GREATLY recieved! Thanks!
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Steve Hignett

posted on 5/3/09 at 12:29 AM Reply With Quote
Woh woh woh, there...

Don't be so quick to wander away from the Bike engine my friend!!!

An older Blade/R1, will still impress a lot more than an older ford engine, mostly because of the gear change and revving the nuts off it aspect!

What's your budget for build and engine?

ATB

(And welcome to the forum by the way...)






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blakep82

posted on 5/3/09 at 12:42 AM Reply With Quote
i like vauxhalls
red tops are good, loads of power to be had, loads of tuning bits out there for them
ecotecs are the exact same block (so fitting to type 9 gearboxes is simple) similar power to the red top to be had. but not as many tuning parts available (though there is a LOT more now than there was when i bought my ecotec)

bike engines, meh, i don't know, yeah they are pretty powerful, small, sound good at high revs, not sure i could live with one if i had to drive too far in it (only driven one once)

ford engines are good too you can probably get more power out them than the vauxhalls, but i'm not sure which ones and by how much more.

I'd go for vauxhall, tried and tested





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Paul TigerB6

posted on 5/3/09 at 01:05 AM Reply With Quote
As Steve says - if the budget doesnt stretch to a Busa then why not an R1 / blade / ZX9R etc?? 1/4 of the price or less and dont need expensive sump changes - just a £40 baffle plate. Not exactly a great deal of performance difference either!!






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locosttroubles

posted on 5/3/09 at 01:28 AM Reply With Quote
thanks for all the info and the welcome, much appreciated. after shelling out for a good welder i'm left with nearly £2000 for an engine, currently! this car is going to be a very regular runner for me so just need something a little, well, everyday, know what i mean? as much as i love what bike engines can do, i'm not sure i could listen to one everyday, no offence, because my dream track car is a turbo hayabusa 7 (drool) just maybe next time. never thought about vauxhall (thay're opels over here) but will def look into that now, thanks. am i right in saying that pretty much any size of engine within reason, will fit in? its just a noise thing, LOVE big V8 sound, can listen to that all day! thanks again all.
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cooke80

posted on 5/3/09 at 06:16 AM Reply With Quote
If you like the sound of the v8, have you considered a 5 cylinder engine such as a volvo or an audi unit (i think fiat did one to but it was fwd) because a 5 cylinder engine does a good impression of a v8.

I'm looking into the left field choice of a nissan primera engine, 125-150 bhp as standard depending on spec and tundable to 180ish with cams, manifold and exhaust. Just need to find a way to mount it to a type 9 box

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l0rd

posted on 5/3/09 at 06:20 AM Reply With Quote
S2000
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iank

posted on 5/3/09 at 07:21 AM Reply With Quote
To answer the question:
2.0 Zetec is cheapest to install
2.0 Red Top is probably cheaper if you want a 200bhp. (See NS Dev's posts)

On the BEC/CEC war that is brewing with boring inevitability.
Remember BEC's will need a reverse for IVA. Getting a BEC to 200bhp is a very expensive exercise.
Have ride in both as BECs are addictive in a marmite kind of a way, certainly not for everyone or best suited to all roles.





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flak monkey

posted on 5/3/09 at 07:43 AM Reply With Quote
If you have £2k to spend on an engine, go for a duratec! Now fitting one to mine, have a look on my website for details.

David





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mookaloid

posted on 5/3/09 at 08:10 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
If you have £2k to spend on an engine, go for a duratec!



Couldn't agree more





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matt_claydon

posted on 5/3/09 at 08:12 AM Reply With Quote
Duratec without a shadow of doubt: all alloy, loads more power available without any internal mods, very reliable, off-the-shelf bellhousing/gearbox options.
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NS Dev

posted on 5/3/09 at 08:12 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
If you have £2k to spend on an engine, go for a duratec! Now fitting one to mine, have a look on my website for details.

David


Surely to do the complete job will be a tad more unless you fabricate everything yourself, unless I am missing a trick here?

You'll need sump, bellhousing (£200 ish iirc), exhaust manifold, engine management of some sort, clutch parts, hydraulics to operate it, various plumbing bits unless you want it to look like an accident in a silicone hose shop.............

I'd be very interested to see an accurate review of costs of a complete, rolling road set-up, genuine 200hp duratec installed on a "Locost" style budget, in a 7........................

cos XE's aint going to be around for ever LOL





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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NS Dev

posted on 5/3/09 at 08:17 AM Reply With Quote
ok, had a look on your website, not quite as bad as I thought it might be, looks like the clutch is easier than it could have been in particular!

Once its all done and dynoed, let us know the result, if it makes over 200hp for less than £2000 the I'll consider fitting one when my XE expires!





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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CaptainJosh

posted on 5/3/09 at 09:10 AM Reply With Quote
I would go with the duratec, as its the new up and coming engine its going to be pretty future proof.

Also, you can use an mx5 gearbox without having to fork out for an expensive bellhousing.

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britishtrident

posted on 5/3/09 at 09:21 AM Reply With Quote
Why dream of a V8 probably the most undesirable engine for a Sevenish car as a big in effiecient V8 will be no faster but rob the chassis of its nimble handling.

Bike engines are truly fantastic but they are just not designed to drive car drive trains.



In the 1600 to 2 litre size bracket think Ford Vauxhall or Rover.
In a Locost chassis any of these engines will be a lot faster than anything you have ever driven and make the Rover v8 look old and clumsy.

Rover K16 is by far the lightest, Rover M16 & T16 are good very powerful but heavy Vauxhall engines have an awful lot going for them but in terms of bang per buck and ease to install the Zetec has to be the simplest solution.

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locosttroubles

posted on 5/3/09 at 09:23 AM Reply With Quote
LEGENDS ALL!!!!! brilliant advice and thank you all so much. wish i registered here before buying my first shoddy mig welder which didn't work. ya live ya learn though! i think a duratec is gonna be the way to go judging by the general feedback, best all rounder yeh? now just the small job of finishing my first welding/chassis/everything else job. seeya in YEARS probably! thanks again
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cd.thomson

posted on 5/3/09 at 09:43 AM Reply With Quote
Duratec is definitely "a" way to go,

..but after doing what youre doing now and looking for information the XE definitely sits on top of the pile for best all rounder.

And if you're using a type 9 box then you've got as much effort to put a vauxhall in as you have the duratec.

Going back to your first post, you're going to pay a huge premium for the modern duratec engine. You'll spend more putting it together than if you fitted an R1 I bet and it'll end up slower.





Craig

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eddie99

posted on 5/3/09 at 10:32 AM Reply With Quote
With 2k, i would say go Duratec if CEC is what you want. If not, from what i've seen on other threads look into older r1's for a BEC.

Im not sure whether a duratec would squeeze into that budget but ask other people that have done it and see flak monkey's build website...

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NS Dev

posted on 5/3/09 at 12:44 PM Reply With Quote
As above, I'm sceptical on that budget....for example, you WILL need to make the sump yourself and you WILL need to be able to sort a megasquirt installation out from scratch, and find a rolling road that will map it, or somebody with a GOOD map for a std engine.

Bolting the thing in is one thing, getting decent and reliable power quite another.

I would go XE at the moment, as bits are MUCH more readily available, and much cheaper, and in standard form the XE actually seems to make MORE power than a std duratec (assuming both are fitted with throttle bodies but are otherwise standard)

I am interested in the duratec route though, probably before I dry sump my XE, as I already have a management system which will run a duratec and access to suitable maps, plus ally welding facilities etc and a set of throttle bodies...........


only worth doing if it will make more power than the XE though and my standard one is just over 200hp at the mo.

Edit - ps my total build cost was circa £5k so engine installation was certainly well under 2K, approx £1500 I think, but again, bear in mind that the ACTUAL ENGINE only cost me £200 of that!!!!

[Edited on 5/3/09 by NS Dev]





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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MikeRJ

posted on 5/3/09 at 02:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cooke80
If you like the sound of the v8, have you considered a 5 cylinder engine such as a volvo or an audi unit (i think fiat did one to but it was fwd) because a 5 cylinder engine does a good impression of a v8.


I have to disagree; inline 5 cylinder engines have even firing angles giving a silky smooth smooth sound, nothing like the rough sound of a cross plane V8 with it's odd firing angles.

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flak monkey

posted on 5/3/09 at 05:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev

.... in standard form the XE actually seems to make MORE power than a std duratec (assuming both are fitted with throttle bodies but are otherwise standard)


Really? An otherwise std duratec with parallel throttle bodies makes 195 bhp. Whats an XE make?

Duratec on weber 45's is 170bhp...on tapered throttle bodies is 203bhp

David

[Edited on 5/3/09 by flak monkey]





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liam.mccaffrey

posted on 5/3/09 at 11:16 PM Reply With Quote
I drive a volvo v70 (with inline 5) and I have to say it does sound a little bit like my old v8 truck.

What I will say though is it sounds identical to to the triton V10 I had in my F250

quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by cooke80
If you like the sound of the v8, have you considered a 5 cylinder engine such as a volvo or an audi unit (i think fiat did one to but it was fwd) because a 5 cylinder engine does a good impression of a v8.


I have to disagree; inline 5 cylinder engines have even firing angles giving a silky smooth smooth sound, nothing like the rough sound of a cross plane V8 with it's odd firing angles.


[Edited on 5/3/09 by liam.mccaffrey]





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NS Dev

posted on 6/3/09 at 08:54 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev

.... in standard form the XE actually seems to make MORE power than a std duratec (assuming both are fitted with throttle bodies but are otherwise standard)


Really? An otherwise std duratec with parallel throttle bodies makes 195 bhp. Whats an XE make?

Duratec on weber 45's is 170bhp...on tapered throttle bodies is 203bhp

David

[Edited on 5/3/09 by flak monkey]


Ok, good as identical then.

Std XE on taper bodies makes around 204hp (the "SBD kit" quote, but two of mine have been within couple of hp of that) and on weber 48's around 175hp.

Sounds like an identical sort of benchmark. Duratec is lighter though. Xe is cheaper though...

Xe getting harder to find a good one, duratec getting cheaper.

Certainly the future is Duratec, think to be fair we are now with the duratec where the XE was in 1994 (when they weren't cheap and I was first playing with them! ) in that the price is coming down and the suppliers of bits are getting more common and so cheaper.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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Andy D

posted on 6/3/09 at 11:52 AM Reply With Quote
There's a thread on the Westy site HERE discussing Durabang power.
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flak monkey

posted on 6/3/09 at 12:47 PM Reply With Quote
It does depend a lot on the RR and set up.

I would also argue that with the air filters under the bonnet on the westy that you are going to loose a considerable amount of power (especially with the short trumpets and squashed in air filter) Maybe a 10% restriction which would see you up at over 190bhp with a decent free flowing set up.

I find it hard to believe that a company such as Raceline or SBdev would overstate their power figures, it leaves you open to all sorts of litigation....

The proof is in the pudding as they say. Will see what mine makes when its fitted and tweaked.

David





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