craig1410
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 12:51 AM |
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How much paint?
Hi,
Anyone know how much cellulose paint I would need to paint the scuttle, bonnet, nosecone, front cycle wings and rear wings of a locost? It's a
4" wider locost by the way.
I need enough to spray all the panels with enough coats to allow for flatting with enough left over for repairs and mistakes.
I was thinking of buying some of
this
It says on the site that it thins 1:1 with cellulose thinners.
Any idea how much I would need? 3 litres do it?
Cheers,
Craig.
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dmulally
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 03:51 AM |
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Hi Craig,
Not sure how it is over there but I would pop into your local car paint place and get their advice.
3 litres would be way too much for what you need. Probably half that would do. Depends on how many coats. Is cellulose the same as acryllic? Or is
that 2k? If it is a 1:1 mixture it is probable what we call acryllic.
Dont forget the clear coat and if you want a couple of pointers on how to apply, then just let me know and Ill post up some tips.
Cheers
Damo
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 06:44 AM |
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1ltr of colour is more than enough, 1/2 ltr of primer, then thin 1:1
DON'T MIX PAINT BRANDS, buy one and stick to it for every part of the process
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Danozeman
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 07:25 AM |
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quote:
This is a colour that is not matched to any code or sample and every batch is complete one off - so buy enough to do the job fully.
That looks a nice colour but, make sure you have enough to paint the car again spare or get a colour thats made up from a paint code so you can buy it
again if you need to!
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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Danozeman
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 07:26 AM |
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Ps I painted mine with 1 litre thinned 1:1 and i have none spare.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 07:42 AM |
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as above, use a standard paint code for future use. My falcon was a one off and nobody could match the colour so its needed a full respray
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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craig1410
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 10:17 AM |
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Hi guys,
Yes I'm aware that the paint is a one off batch which is why I wanted to have a large amount of contingency. Given the nature of the car I
don't mind if I have to do a complete respray in future as it's a good excuse to freshen the car up! 
I did visit my local paint shop but they can't source cellulose anymore except for agricultural use and the therefore the colours are very
limited (green and red probably...) Cellulose is different from Acrylic although don't ask me what is different. Cellulose uses Xylene and
Toluene (the third letter of TNT...) as solvents, not sure about Acrylic.
Danozeman, when you say you used 1 + 1 litre of paint/thinner and had none left, were you painting the same number of panels as me? I'm leaving
the side and back panels aluminium so it's only wings, bonnet, scuttle and nosecone which will be painted. I'll check your photo gallery
in a mo'.
According to the supplier, this paint doesn't require clearcoat but you can use it if you want. I've sprayed a couple of cars with
cellulose before and just flatted and polished it afterwards but I've never done metallic. Would you recommend clearcoat over this stuff or is
it easier to touch it up if I leave the clearcoat off? Advice on pro's and con's of clearcoat welcome. Note that the car will be garaged
most of the time so colour fading is probably not so much of an issue. It will also have a healthy dose of wax to protect both the aluminium and paint
so maybe clearcoat isn't so necessary?
Thanks for all the advice guys,
Craig.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 11:29 AM |
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I know it looks a good deal but there's absolutely no way I'd touch it
For a start there's not a brand so you can't insure that it won't react with the primer of etch coats or even the lacquer (if you
think cellulose is just cellulose think again they aren’t and many will react with disastrous results, the voice of experience... ) try sanding down
your car after the paints gone to hell and turned to wrinkled gloop and you'll never forget it
This is the company I deal with - linky
, they're colour matching is superb and delivery next day, the paint you buy from them are compatible so you can buy everything in one go. My
girlfriends little corsa is painted in a blue metallic that looks virtually identical to that colour so go to Halfords and have a look. Respraying the
whole car because one panel has been damaged is a complete PITA
[Edited on 13/4/09 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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craig1410
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 12:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
I know it looks a good deal but there's absolutely no way I'd touch it
For a start there's not a brand so you can't insure that it won't react with the primer of etch coats or even the lacquer (if you
think cellulose is just cellulose think again they aren’t and many will react with disastrous results, the voice of experience...) try sanding down
your car after the paints gone to hell and turned to wrinkled gloop and you'll never forget it
This is the company I deal with - linky
, they're colour matching is superb and delivery next day, the paint you buy from them are compatible so you can buy everything in one go. My
girlfriends little corsa is painted in a blue metallic that looks virtually identical to that colour so go to Halfords and have a look. Respraying the
whole car because one panel has been damaged is a complete PITA
[Edited on 13/4/09 by Mr Whippy]
Hmmm, you've got me thinking now... I hate it when that happens!
Okay, maybe I should have a look at some colours down at Halfords and see if I can find a paint code which is what I'm looking for.
Any suggestions of paint codes for a nice crystal blue? Something like copper sulphate blue or Focus ST or Subaru Impreza blue.
Should I go for Metallic or stick with plain? I see on that website that they don't do metallic cellulose and if they did then it says you must
overcoat with lacquer if you do. Never sprayed metallic before so maybe better sticking with flat paint?
Cheers,
Craig.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 12:19 PM |
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Metallic is actually the easier of the two, reason being you can wet sand the base colour coat till your hearts content, then when perfect simply
spray on lots of light coats of clear to bring it up to a shine. I now use (and I know a lot of spray places do too) clear over even solid colours as
it easier to get a perfect shine
I think if I were you I'd do some smaller test pieces like a wing and perfect your technique before trying a whole car. I originally got mine
sorted spraying a fuel tank of a bike and got a stunning finish after a lot of work but then after I found spraying dead easy
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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craig1410
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| posted on 13/4/09 at 12:25 PM |
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Am I right in saying that base coat isn't cellulose these days or can you get cellulose base coat? I'm thinking in terms of DIY spraying
with just a carbon filtered mask - is it okay for this? Also, I believe there is a difference between 1K and 2K clear - are they both okay for DIY use
(as above) or should I stick to 1K clear? I will be doing the spraying in a plastic lined garage and it's only a few panels so exposure should
be minimal. I will also be wearing a hat and overalls to keep skin contact to the minimum.
Thanks again,
Craig.
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