easisatman
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 06:24 PM |
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front brake calpers
Hi all
my front m16 calipers are starting to get a bit sticky so is it worth overhauling or Changing for somthing like willwoods. Is there a big
differance to the braking?
regards
Paul
[Edited on 8/6/09 by easisatman]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 06:37 PM |
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Willwoods will make your braking worse.
Sticking calipers are caused by the seals getting hard -- usually because they have been either contaminated with oil (eg WD40 or similar) or just
through heat and age.
New set of seals will fix things.
[Edited on 8/6/09 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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handyandy
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 06:40 PM |
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sorry to jump onto the thread but may i ask why would willwoods make the braking worse? i have no knowledge of these calipers but thought that they
were quite well regarded?
hope you don,t mind me asking.
cheers
andy
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 07:34 PM |
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They have issues -- well known to cause very spongey pedal, partly because it is difficult to get all the air out them but mainly because they
flex.
Willwood recommend fitting a bigger bore mastercylinder and a residual pressure valve --- which are ridiculous kludges if they have the same
hydraulic area as the Sierra or Cortina calipers.
The big adavantage of alloy calipers is lightness --- reduced unprung weight.
The best way to decent brakes is to fit a mastercylinder designed to work without a servo --- ie one that has a smaller bore. For example from the
non-servoed entry level models of Mk1 Fiesta or Mk1 Polo
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handyandy
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 07:39 PM |
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ok thanks for the info,
cheers
andy
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austin man
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 09:04 PM |
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Just had the same problems with my M16 callipers even though I resealed them previously they lasted a year. This time around I am replacing the
pistons for Stainless items so doing a full refurb ordered them yesterday, £16.00 for the seal and £55.00 for new pistons plus P&P. Standard
pistons are £39.00 + P+P ebay items seller Big Red ltd
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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iank
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 09:12 PM |
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That's BiggRed I think
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Bigg-Red__W0QQ_armrsZ1
The website is here
http://www.biggred.co.uk/
[Edited on 8/6/09 by iank]
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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easisatman
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 09:14 PM |
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Iam thinking the same way, but you spend that much money is it worth it or spend a little bit more and have somthing a little bit more?
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austin man
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 09:24 PM |
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I am then going to fit grooved discs @£39.00 from the bay of e so Just over £100 for new brakes and discs ??, Wildwood are going to be at least that
plus their pads you could always fit green stuff or red stuff pads as well.
Got to ask yourself where you happy with the brakes prior to them starting to stick if so why replace them
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 8/6/09 at 09:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
The best way to decent brakes is to fit a mastercylinder designed to work without a servo --- ie one that has a smaller bore. For example from the
non-servoed entry level models of Mk1 Fiesta or Mk1 Polo
I've got a brand new tandem master cylinder that was destined to fit an old Mazda pickup with drum brakes. Bore is 19mm, and it has the
standard Girling type mounting (i.e. vertical bolt holes) which is perfect for my application, but both ports appear to have residual pressure valves.
Is this common? They are very easily removed; I guess I won't be needing them with standard Escort drums/disks?
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easisatman
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 03:39 AM |
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yeh your right Austin man I was looking at the same stuff on fleabay myself on sunday. I managed to get one of the pistons out with an airline (how
do you get the other one out?)and the chrome was pitted with a little rust. so yes stainless items seem a good idea
thanks for the advice
Paul
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britishtrident
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| posted on 9/6/09 at 07:27 AM |
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The way you have to look at the brakes on these cars is that the brakes already have more than enough heat dissipation.capacity, in fact one of the
main problems is getting them up to working temperature.
Don't assume what will improve the brakes on a hot hatch or even a super bike will be a good move on a Locost
The real problem is because of the restricted room in the footwell the brake pedal ratio is less than half that of the Sierra and without a
servo.
Unsprung weight of the standard setup is undesirable to say the least both Sierra and Cortina calipers are b****dy heavy.
Grooved and drilled disc won't improve the dry braking on these cars as the brakes aren't working so hard they produce clouds of gas and
brake dust. The only thing grooved and/or drill discs will improve is the initial bite of the brake in wet weather --- eg first application of the
brakes after a few miles on a wet motorway.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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