Gergely
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 08:50 AM |
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Front propshaft to Quaife reverse fixing issue
Hi,
After the first 80 miles we have covered in the car the 4 bolts that connect the front propshaft to the Quaife reverse have worked themselves loose
and one of them actually fell out...
Has anyone had this issue? How have you solved it?
We have used Loctite blue on the bolts which was not enough apparently.
What have you done? What do you recommend?
We are thinking of using bolts that have no thread for 5mm at the head so that there is no thread under the propshaft flange (less chance of it
working loose), use stronger Loctite red or metal glue and also use serrated or spring spacers under the bolt heads...
Any suggestions? I don't want to imagine the propshaft bolts working loose at 120 miles an hour on the track... so I need a sure solution...
By the way, here is a short video from the first drive and the car drives great, but the idle was very low, so the car stalled every time it got to
idle. It is now fixed since...
First drive
Thanks!
Gergely
Our build pictures
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 08:53 AM |
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Get some green loctite, that stuff only can be removed with a blowtorch
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MK9R
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 08:59 AM |
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Mine always did this, didn't mater what i put on them, they always worked loose, and for some reason it was always the rear propshaft to box
bolts. I used to check mine on a very regular basis. Get some loctite and use nyloc nuts and check regularly. Put a paint mark on the bolts so you can
visually inspect them aswell.
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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richardh
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 09:07 AM |
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used red threadlock with sprung washers and a fair amount of torque
keep checking and touch wood nothing loose so far
Time for a change!
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twybrow
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 09:26 AM |
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Well as threadlock seems to be enough on my car to hold the propshaft on, I wouldn't worry too much. botls just add weight! 
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Gergely
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 09:30 AM |
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I can't use nyloc nuts as the Quaife flange is threaded and that is what the bolts screw into...
Our build pictures
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rgrs
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 09:38 AM |
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Lock wire, drill and lockwire all the nuts through the bolt shafts.
Roger
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gr8ging
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 11:42 AM |
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I used loctite 601 which is dark Green. We have all types of loctite at work and this suff is one of the stronger ones, Blue and Red tend to be low to
mid range. I used 12.9 socket head bolts.
They need to be at least four white knuckles tight
If you want some 601 I could post you some if it's not too expensive to Hungary?
Weaseling out of things is what separates us from the animals.... except the weasel.
You couldn't fool your own mother on the foolingest day of your life with an electrified fooling machine!
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Gergely
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 04:40 PM |
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Cheers gr8ging! Let me see what is available here and I will let you know! I appreciate it!
I had the idea of putting 2 steel plates under two adjacent bolts each, so that the plates can not move, and once the bolts are torqued up, fold the
edges of the metal plate onto the bolt heads - similarly to the wheel hub nuts. This way the bolts should not be able to come loose. Plus the
threadlock will be there, too...
Thanks all!
Gergely
Our build pictures
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GregMcN
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| posted on 18/7/09 at 09:09 PM |
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I have had the same problem though for me tends to be the rear propshaft that works lose first. I have also gone down the route of using a high
strength thread lock and seems to be holding. Though a word of caution - if it is like mine if you stop the propshaft bolts coming lose then the
geabox mounting bolts will be next so you need to use on both.
Cheers Greg
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Wheels244
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| posted on 18/7/09 at 10:10 PM |
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I used blue threadlock with spring washers - no problems after 300 miles.
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