Lars
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 06:41 PM |
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URGENT help needed
To cut right to the point...
I started changing the rear discs and pads on my 2002 Skoda octavia. (my daily driver that I will need again on monday)
All is straight forward (ish), but I really cannot get the pistions back into the calipers, so can't fit the pads.
Firstly I don't have a tool, but tried the "tip" in the haynes manual that says use a pair of circlip pliers to wind them back
in.
Well its turning but not moving back in.
So unless told otherwise first thing tomorrow I will buy a rewind tool.
Now what is really confusing me is that these tools are handed.
The haynes book says clockwise, so I guess I need a right handed one.
Can someone confirm this is right. (are both sides right handed or is one actually left handed?)
Also why are they handed, why does it not just press the piston back in?
Any advice welcome.
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Howlor
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 06:43 PM |
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You have to apply alot of force at the same time as turning. I have managed it in the past but far easier with a tool.
Steve
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Lars
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 06:45 PM |
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thought it might be the case, but i don't think i will get any more force on it.
does it really matter whether the tool is handed?
[Edited on 18/9/10 by Lars]
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Front Row Joe
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 06:49 PM |
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I used a g clamp and a disc grinder spanner (115 mm) on the rears of my 2001 VW passat. I'd bet my bottom dollar they're virtually the
same as yours. Just put the clamp over the caliper and onto the piston. Tighten it a little and then use the spanner to turn the piston back in. The
tighten the clamp a bit more etc etc. Works a treat.
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stevebubs
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 06:50 PM |
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Yes - the pistons are threaded...turn it the wrong way and it will try and come further out rather than go back in...which is not good when
you're then applying more and more pressure in the other direction...something's gotta give, Jim...
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 06:51 PM |
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You probably need a right handed tool although using circlip pliers/angle grinder key to turn the piston and careful use of a "g" clamp
might work
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Howlor
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 06:59 PM |
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I found I could get a tyre lever in to apply the pressure then found a set of pliers that fitted the slot from the side so I could wind them in. I am
sure they both are right hand thread.
Steve
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pewe
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 07:03 PM |
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Lars, reckon they'll be the same as my neighbours Mk5(?) Golf. I made up a tool which you are welcome to borrow if you are near enough Cemetery
Junction in Reading to make the trip worthwhile?
Cheers, Pewe 
PS As said above the g clamp and circlip pliers sounds a good alternative - from memory they need screwing in right handed but don't quote me on
that.
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Lars
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 07:11 PM |
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Thanks guys.
I was thinking of making some sort of tool for the winding bit, as the circlip plier method is a little fiddly. However the angle grinder tool idea is
excellent, should have thought of that, even have few spare.
I will give that a go, and then if that not work invest in a proper tool when the shops open.
Lars
PS Pewe unfortunately I have no means of getting to you. Tin top has no brakes and the locost is SORN.
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balidey
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 07:20 PM |
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Do you need to remove the cap from the fluid reservoir to allow the fluid to go back? ie so its not fighting against air?
Dutch bears have terrible skin due to their clogged paws
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adithorp
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 08:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by balidey
Do you need to remove the cap from the fluid reservoir to allow the fluid to go back? ie so its not fighting against air?
Not really but it's worth checking how full it is. The level will rise and if it's too full, overflow.
99% are right hand threads. Turn clockwise while applying presure. It usually takes a bit of force to get it going then gets easier. G-clamp and
either angle grinder tool or grips used carefully will get it done with care. Not worth getting the tool unless you're doing it regularly.
When you rebuild DON'T pull the handbrake untill you've pumped the foot brake.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Lars
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 08:44 PM |
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Thanks
I did follow advice in the Haynes book that says to loosen the bleed valve. I did push out brake fluid, just the piston did not retract.
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les g
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| posted on 18/9/10 at 11:34 PM |
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i promise you adithorp's
advice is 100% correct
done it just like he says last weekend on my daughters car
cheers les g
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skippad
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| posted on 19/9/10 at 09:19 AM |
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I struggled with above method all afternoon for just one side.... went down to mates garage and borrowed correct tool...both sides completed in half
hour!
Beg/borrow correct tool...its not worth the hassle!!!
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 19/9/10 at 09:43 AM |
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I did mine with a grinder disc spanner in about 15 minutes.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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Danozeman
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| posted on 19/9/10 at 10:30 AM |
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quote:
When you rebuild DON'T pull the handbrake untill you've pumped the foot brake.
This is a must as the caliper can jump the screw and knacker it if you pull the handbrake before youv pumped the pedal so the pistons back where it
needs to be.
Its fiddly to do without the correct tool but once youv done one side the other will be a piece of wee.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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Lars
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| posted on 19/9/10 at 04:58 PM |
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thanks all
the angle grinder , g-clamp method did work, but not quick enough took me 10 mins for about 2mm, given that the pads had worn through to the metal
(well almost), that would have just taken to long.
So I decided to get the tool, which work absolutely brilliantly.
(If anyone near Oxford wants to borrow it let me know.)
Turns out it was more of a problem to remove the discs, as the little counter sunk screw just would not shift, ended up drilling it out and
re-tapping, and fitting a flange nut, will be easier to remove next time. It does not sit flush, but luckily there is recess in the alloy that
accomodates it.
Thanks all.
[Edited on 19/9/10 by Lars]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 19/9/10 at 05:42 PM |
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Center punch on the screw tilted so that it is pointing in an anticlockwise direction removes the screw normally. The screw only holds the disc in
position until the wheel is on
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Lars
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| posted on 20/9/10 at 01:47 PM |
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funnily enough I heard the centre punch suggestion from my motor factor last night too.
But I dont have a centre punch anyway
Again thanks all (I made it to work today)
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JoelP
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| posted on 20/9/10 at 07:22 PM |
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i got my stuck screw out with a bolster chisel and mallet. That learnt it.
How come some pistons are threaded but others arent? On my vivaro i just forced them back with a G clamp.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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adithorp
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| posted on 21/9/10 at 04:18 PM |
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Because the Vivaro handbrake isn't on the caliper perhaps. Isn't it a drum/shoes inside the disc?
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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