mcramsay
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 03:49 PM |
|
|
fitting the pedal box
hey guys, sorry to keep brining this topic up! im well under way in fitting the box into the car. ive taken a few pics and i was hoping for for some
input...just to make sure im keeping to the IVA straight and narrow way!
ive started by firstly removing the old pedals and drilling the floor to accomodate the pedals:
as ive said before i will need to make a bracket up to help hold the pedal box under heavy braking sadly im waiting on a few bits for the mig welder
before i can carry on with that part.
i then made up two brackets which go on the under side of the floor pan, ive done this because the floor is quite thin, and it will give more rigidity
than using large penny washers:
due to the floor of the car being tapered i could not mount the box far enough forward to allow both master cylinders to be fully in the engine bay.
to get around this problem i will have to shim the mastercylinders off the pedal box, for the moment i am using equal amounts of washers on each
master cylinder, as shown below:
now i know roughtly the size the shim must be i will machine some full face shims up at work tomorrow....will make the job look a bit more
professional, and having a full face shim will add more support to the master cylinders:
also by shimming the master cylinders enough so that the feed hole now pokes into the engine bay (through a crafty cut out in the firewall panel) this
has worked well as there is some panels above that used to house the old sierra mastercylinder. this box has given a good mounting point for the fluid
reservoirs (with float switches that i found on ebay) the feed pipes will be p clipped to the firewall panel for security and to hold them well out
the way of the steering column. i know the firewall panel looks rough its not bolted on propperly and the protective covering has got pretty dirty!
the problem i am faced with now is the clutch cable, due to moving everything around the cable is too long, and the only way it can be fitted is like
so:
which doesnt really look that great, can it be done like this? (i know i need to weld on a mounting for the plastic bush to sit into) otherwise can
any body suggest where i can get a shorter cable from...its a Type 9 box in the car,
finally does any body know the thread of the pressure side of the master cylinder i believe they are 3/8 UNF 24 TPI?
sorry for the massive post, any comments/ suggestions are more than welcome
|
|
|
|
|
RAYLEE29
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 05:00 PM |
|
|
Hi, why are you spacing off the cylinders? you should be adjusting the pushrods!
you seem to be making it all very complicated the box you have has been made to fit up to the chassis member and by fittimg it in the wrong place
youve made all these problems.
personally id put it where its meant to be even if you have to shave some off the sides to get it there.
also the unions you need will either be unf or metric fine most of the girling copies i have seen have been metric fine
Ray
sorry if i seem blunt but thats the way i see it
[Edited on 29/12/10 by RAYLEE29]
|
|
|
mcramsay
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 05:18 PM |
|
|
the fitting instructions say that the brake pedal position is set by both shiming the master cylinders and by shortening the pushrods. obviously i
will change the washers for propper full face shims. by shiming the cylinders approx 1cm further back it allows for a much neater installation of the
feed hoses and also sets the brake pedal in the correct position. that was my reason for doing this.
|
|
|
RAYLEE29
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 05:28 PM |
|
|
just edited my above post so take a look above
Ray
|
|
|
plentywahalla
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 05:29 PM |
|
|
Looks to me like you need a longer cable, not a shorter one.
That bend is too tight and will wear out the liner in no time.
|
|
|
mcramsay
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 06:15 PM |
|
|
being blunt is generally the best way. i do understand what you are saying but without seriously cutting into structural parts of the chassis the box
will not fit. it isnt a case of just shaving bits off. it is more time consuming the way im doing it but i dont see that where ive mounted the pedal
will cause too much more trouble. i do not have to space the cylinders back if it will cause a problem, i just thought that would be an easyer way
than cutting loads off the push rods. i would still be having this issue along with the clutch cable even if the box was mounted up against the bulk
head. the only real problem i will have with the box is a small flex issue which will be sorted when i can make some brackets up at work. i spend most
of my time in a machine/fabricating shop at work so making brackets and spacers up is not too much of an issue. Sorry if it sounds like im not
listening to what you are saying. i do believe i could have got a more suiting pedal box and it could be positioned better but my budget wouldnt allow
for a custom made one. i do agree that i problibly have made this topic much more complicated than it needs to be.
|
|
|
