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Author: Subject: Battery Size for rv8
Scotty

posted on 4/7/11 at 06:26 AM Reply With Quote
Battery Size for rv8

hi all

what size battery are others with rv8 engines using?

having just finished rebuilding the (slightly tuned) rover v8, i'm having problems with starting

got a new starter motor (burnt the old one out) but it seems to be struggling, looking around various forums, it seems most people are recommending minimum 660a batteries, mine is only a 520a but was fine with the old engine (possibly shows how knackered it was!!)

if i jump start it with another battery, is seems ok

but dont want to spend lots of money on a new bigger battery if this is not really the problem

any input would be appreciated

thanks in advance





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RazMan

posted on 4/7/11 at 06:54 AM Reply With Quote
You don't necessarily have to go physically bigger - have you considered the Odyssey range? Very small but they pack a fiersome punch and will start much bigger engines than your ickle RV8





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daviep

posted on 4/7/11 at 08:09 AM Reply With Quote
Have you checked all the connection on the main battery cable and earths are in good condition and nice and tight?

Have a feel at all heavy cables and connections including the earths after cranking and see if anything is getting warm.

Davie





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Irony

posted on 4/7/11 at 08:51 AM Reply With Quote
Thread


Some info here

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scudderfish

posted on 4/7/11 at 08:57 AM Reply With Quote
Mine is rated 610 CCA and spins it over with no trouble.






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craig1410

posted on 4/7/11 at 12:41 PM Reply With Quote
I've just a got a bog standard battery which I probably bought from Halfords about 5 years ago and it does the job just fine without even a hint of sluggishness on cranking. I don't even need to re-charge the battery over the winter when the car is off the road - I can just jump in and start it up in the spring. I do disconnect the battery when the car is not in use though to be fair.

The numbers on the battery are as follows:

Model: XM400
SAE: 370A
IEC: 245A
DIN: 210A
Capacity 40AHr

Hope this helps,
Craig.

[Edited on 4/7/2011 by craig1410]

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ashg

posted on 4/7/11 at 12:57 PM Reply With Quote
sounds very typical of a bad earth to me. put a jump lead from the neg on the battery to a good bit of clean metal on the engine block and try to start it.





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craig1410

posted on 4/7/11 at 01:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
sounds very typical of a bad earth to me. put a jump lead from the neg on the battery to a good bit of clean metal on the engine block and try to start it.


I suppose that depends on whether, when he was using another battery to boost the onboard battery, he was attaching the negative lead from battery to battery or from booster battery to chassis (the correct way btw).

If it were me, I'd take off all the connections and clean them all thoroughly. A brass brush is good for cleaning the battery terminals or some emery cloth. Make sure you clean the battery connectors too and ensure that the crimps are secure and clean. Then check the starter main battery terminal as well and clean it thoroughly. Do the same with the engine to chassis and chassis to battery earth braids and make sure they are beefy enough (same with the main battery cable - it needs to be big).

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Scotty

posted on 5/7/11 at 06:42 AM Reply With Quote
hi
thanks for the info, will def try that
did try cleaning all cr@p off connections first

need to investigate a bit more

thanks





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britishtrident

posted on 6/7/11 at 09:30 AM Reply With Quote
As a rough guide to standard battery type numbers.

Type 075 --- typical used 1.8 to 3 litre petrol tin top or 1.8 diesel --- 510 to 560 cca depending on grade & manufacturer.

Type 096 ---- typical use 2 to 4 litre petrol tin top or 1.8 to 3 litre diesel --- 600 to 660 cca depending on grade & manufacturer.
Tanya batteries are a very good ( both price and delivery) online supplier

Tanya link

However the problem sounds to me you have too much static/cranking speed ignition advance ---try retarding the ignition 5 to 10 degrees before dumping the battery.
As it may be what you really need to is sort out the ignition advance curve.

[Edited on 6/7/11 by britishtrident]





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