dhutch
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| posted on 6/10/11 at 07:39 PM |
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Changing a radiator pipe/valve?
Not actaully changing a valve, but I have a radiator thats plumbed up with flexi tails from the copper and one of them has a kink in it from where its
been installed with a 90deg twist in it from the previous owner. Hence rad doesnt get hot!
My current thought is to de-presurise the system with the drain downstairs by the boiler, but then close this again.
- Close the radiator valve at the one end, and disconnect the flex at that end, with a bucket handy.
- Attach new flexi (like for like part) onto the rad valve. Hopefully by now that waters not coming into the bucket any more.
- Swap hoses over at other end (floor level) hoping not much water than what was in the old flexi ends up the bedroom carpet.
- With the rad valve joint cracked and bucket under, add some water to make up for what was lost. Maybe also bleed the top of that rad.
Does that sound reasonable?
I dont really want to wee brown radiator water all over the carpet. But at the same time I dont really want to drain and rebleed the lot and its not
a new carpet.
Daniel
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nearly done
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| posted on 6/10/11 at 07:56 PM |
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For my two peneth worth I would get rid of the flexi pipes and do it properly (they must look pretty grim and they were not designed for use on
heating systems). proper job using Yorkshire fittings or compression fittings if your not to handy with the flux and blow torch. You can also get
extensions for the rad valves to stretch to the pipe work if its not to far away.
Cheers,Sean.
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Stott
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| posted on 6/10/11 at 08:07 PM |
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I'd second replacing the lot.
As for the method, you can either drain the system or rely on an airlock to stop water coming out but if you don't know what you're doing
it could be tricky.
On a pressurised system you would need to ensure the pressure is released a bit then as you said tighten the valves down as a precaution and split and
work on the joint.
On a header fed system you'd need to bung the feed & expansion pipe and the over pressure pipe in order to create an airlock so the water
won't come flooding out.
If it were me I'd just drain down, replace it all with copper and refill/bleed taking the opportunity to add some inhibitor. Letting all the
sludgy black water drain out and replacing it all can only be good.
As for refilling, if you're on a combi with a feed and expansion tank (no pressure on the combi gauge) then you'd need to stop the water
to the tank in the loft while you drain down, then reinstate the supply to refill and walk around bleeding it all.
If you're on a sealed combi (pressure on the guage) then you'll need to drain down (no supply to isolate) then to refill, open a filling
loop that should be under the boiler (a link between the cw supply pipe and the ch feed pipe with a valve in it), or, depending on the boiler
you'll have a filling loop key that's inserted into the underside of the boiler and turned to fill it, bleed as normal.
Sorry of this is information overload, lol
HTH
Stott
EDIT: if you intend on replacing it with copper don't go anywhere near it with solder until it's 100% dry or it'll not take and will
leak. You can use pushfit copper while it's still a bit wet though - it's next best in the looks department to soldered pipework and lots
easier
[Edited on 6/10/11 by Stott]
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 6/10/11 at 08:24 PM |
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Out of interest, which numpty used flexies on a radiator
Anyway, def get rid. And also drain the lot down. For the small amount of extra time it is worthwhile. You will still have plenty of dribbles to
contend with. BTW I find a paint roller tray ideal for catching water from rads, nice and low.
Pushfit stuff isn't cheap, but does work very well. I have had a system in for 17 years in a rental, no issues even when the pressure went off
he scale (the relief valve seized) and the only weeps were a couple of rad valves. I used pushfit a lot when plumbing is rather inaccessable (been
working at my Dads flats. Everything is difficult)
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JoelP
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| posted on 6/10/11 at 08:24 PM |
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Is there no chance of loosening the flex and twisting it to remove the kink? Wouldnt need draining if you were careful.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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NigeEss
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| posted on 6/10/11 at 08:47 PM |
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Close ALL radiator valves on every radiator, you then only have the small amount of water
in the pipework to deal with.
Have you considered using a pipe freezing kit ?
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 6/10/11 at 09:06 PM |
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If its is really a flex like a flexible tap connector its probably not just the twist thats stopping it working.
Tap connectors are made for clean potable water and to withstand high temperatures for a few mins when the hot tap is open... when used incorectly
like this the heating system water turns the rubber all gooey and the flexi's block up.
As mentioned get replace them with something thats designed for the job and keep a look out for whatever else they've bodged!
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dhutch
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| posted on 6/10/11 at 11:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Out of interest, which numpty used flexies on a radiator
Dont ask, as i said, acquired it from the previous owner and as ive just moved in i have bigger issues on my plate and just need to get it working.
They might not be rated for heating, but if the can do a hot tap at the same temp and higher pressure while not ideal i cant actaully see an issue.
Come summer theres a decent chance the floors coming up a lot more than the flexi is getting changed, but for now it just needs to be a quick fix.
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
Is there no chance of loosening the flex and twisting it to remove the kink? Wouldnt need draining if you were careful.
I have thought of
this, but given its been like that a while i would rather put the new one on.
quote:
Originally posted by NigeEssHave you considered using a pipe freezing kit ?
Main issue (other than not having a kit) is that the
flexi goes right from floor level so there not exposed pipework.
From the comments its sounds like although its a lot way from best/conventional practice the rough method is about right. Report on how well it goes
will follow.....!
Daniel
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foskid
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| posted on 7/10/11 at 05:53 AM |
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It may be that the radiator is not heating up because the radiator is not balanced properly and it could just be a flow problem.
Try opening up the inlet valve fully and closing the exit valve partially to varying degrees to get the right amount of resistance to the flow and
bleed the radiator. If both are fully open the water can just slip in and out without hanging around long enough to heat the rad
Best of luck, John
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 7/10/11 at 06:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
They might not be rated for heating, but if the can do a hot tap at the same temp and higher pressure while not ideal i cant actaully see an issue.
At your peril, but after working as a Heating Engineer for 10 years I've seen it done many a time by qualified plumbers and had to deal with the
consequences!
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Ferg
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| posted on 9/10/11 at 03:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dhutch They might not be rated for heating, but if the can do a hot tap at the same temp and higher pressure while
not ideal i cant actaully see an issue.
Flexi tap-connectors are rated for 65 degrees, by the manufacturers. Heating is likely to be 80+. They aren't much good on taps, to be honest. I
too have often dealt with the consequences.
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