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Author: Subject: Engine Management Light Has Suddenly Come On.
stevegough

posted on 28/1/12 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
Engine Management Light Has Suddenly Come On.

Any ideas of the most common causes?

Facts: 2002 Daihatsu Sirion 1.3
Owned by us for the last 5 and a half years without any problems at all.
Set car running this evening to thaw the screens out before driving home from work, came back to it 10 mins later and the light was on. - First time ever.
It won't go out, tried stopping the engine and starting it again a couple of times.
Absolutely no apparent effect on performance, running etc.

Tempted to take the bulb out......





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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mark chandler

posted on 28/1/12 at 08:31 PM Reply With Quote
ECU's need a few cycles to reset, I suggest first option is ignition on/off a dozen times.

Better to get a generic reader/reset tool from Ebay for a couple of ££, read the error code and reset.

I got one like eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
topicshop_uk
, as your car is post 96 you should have the correct plug as they were all standarised



[Edited on 28/1/12 by mark chandler]

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T66

posted on 28/1/12 at 08:41 PM Reply With Quote
Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes - used to clear my Saabs off.






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Ninehigh

posted on 28/1/12 at 08:51 PM Reply With Quote
If it's nowhere near MOT time then leave it and see what happens, the pug often does this on cold starts... Once it's warmed up well it goes out






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mookaloid

posted on 28/1/12 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
The engine warning light is a notification that a fault exists. Resetting it by disconnecting the battery is fine but if it happens to be something which could go on to say kill your catalytic converter then you will wish you had investigated.

The only way to work out what it means is to use a code reader - they start on ebay for less than £20 and are a worth while addition to any ones tool box.





"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."


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ashg

posted on 28/1/12 at 09:02 PM Reply With Quote
forget the ecu............... Daihatsu? Hit it with a sledge hammer like clarkson did that should fix it for good





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mookaloid

posted on 28/1/12 at 09:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
forget the ecu............... Daihatsu? Hit it with a sledge hammer like clarkson did that should fix it for good


An alternative approach - and just as valid





"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."


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T66

posted on 28/1/12 at 09:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
The engine warning light is a notification that a fault exists. Resetting it by disconnecting the battery is fine but if it happens to be something which could go on to say kill your catalytic converter then you will wish you had investigated.

The only way to work out what it means is to use a code reader - they start on ebay for less than £20 and are a worth while addition to any ones tool box.




Corrected - I did actually know what the cel on the Saab was, and was aware of what was causing it. Your very right Mook






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Ninehigh

posted on 28/1/12 at 09:13 PM Reply With Quote
Could it be possible that the MAF or something similar has thrown a fit at the sudden coldness, or even frozen over disbling it temporarily?






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stevegough

posted on 28/1/12 at 09:37 PM Reply With Quote
Lots of fine, useful advice -thanks guys - (with the definite exception of Ashley who obviously hasn't a clue what he's talking about!) I'll see if it is still lit in the morning, then think about doing the code-reader jobbie.





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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britishtrident

posted on 28/1/12 at 09:52 PM Reply With Quote
If it is a spurious or one off code it may well clear after X number of drive cycles* however as the car will be OBD II compliant, I would advise getting the fault codes read and cleared.

A drive cycle is a medium length journey from a cold start in which a minimum speed (usually 50 mph) is exceeded for a minimum required time.


A code reader or USB interface is cheap off ebay. A good but cheap hand held code scanner is the U480 made by Memoscan loads on eBay for less than £20





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
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mookaloid

posted on 28/1/12 at 11:22 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by T66
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
The engine warning light is a notification that a fault exists. Resetting it by disconnecting the battery is fine but if it happens to be something which could go on to say kill your catalytic converter then you will wish you had investigated.

The only way to work out what it means is to use a code reader - they start on ebay for less than £20 and are a worth while addition to any ones tool box.




Corrected - I did actually know what the cel on the Saab was, and was aware of what was causing it. Your very right Mook


Fair play to you - as a Saab owner myself I have become adept at resetting the CEL





"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."


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Wadders

posted on 28/1/12 at 11:44 PM Reply With Quote
Either buy a cheap code reader or just take it in for the garage to read......The engine management light has been flashing on my van for the last week, been too busy to take it in until this morning......it was the brake light switch, seems iv'e had no brake lights for a week best not to ignore things sometimes

Al.






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ashg

posted on 28/1/12 at 11:46 PM Reply With Quote
i thought i was being helpful

as bt said a generic obdII reader should get the code out then you will most likely need to use the powers that be google to see what the code means. from that point you could be lead down the garden path with red herring faults caused by something completely different to the fault code.

when i had a hole in the intercooler of my vauxhall i was getting all manner of fault codes none of which related to the intake system





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Ninehigh

posted on 29/1/12 at 12:23 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
i thought i was being helpful

as bt said a generic obdII reader should get the code out then you will most likely need to use the powers that be google to see what the code means. from that point you could be lead down the garden path with red herring faults caused by something completely different to the fault code.

when i had a hole in the intercooler of my vauxhall i was getting all manner of fault codes none of which related to the intake system


Heh I had that, light comes on and power goes out of the window (until you hit 2000rpm)
Codes that came up was "Reverse light switch" and "glow plug relay" until I gave up and just dealt with it






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PeterV

posted on 29/1/12 at 12:36 AM Reply With Quote
Had this on a Daihatsu, from freezing cold temp with 10 mins+ on idle, long term fuel trim got upset. Throws a CEL that will clear if you disconnect battery. Won't come back unless you coast everywhere. Can also happen if your burning oil from cold. Daihatsu are fussy about their fuel trim, why the ECU thinks a change in driving style is an error is anyones guess
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stevegough

posted on 29/1/12 at 08:40 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by PeterV
Had this on a Daihatsu, from freezing cold temp with 10 mins+ on idle, long term fuel trim got upset. Throws a CEL that will clear if you disconnect battery. Won't come back unless you coast everywhere. Can also happen if your burning oil from cold. Daihatsu are fussy about their fuel trim, why the ECU thinks a change in driving style is an error is anyones guess



Now this sounds highly likely - same circumstances, same manufacturer - having said that, I have often done this method of warming up the car many times over the years - so why has it never done it before would be my question.

From a couple of the more recent replies, (including ashley's rather more helpful one this time!) getting a fault reader might not give me the answer, rather lead me to further confusion? However, I will also bear in mind mookaloid's warning about killing the cat.....

Once again, many thanks for your replies, guys.

I think I would also like to point out that this Sirion has been a brilliant car - maybe the best I have ever owned (and I have had quite a few including 6 Audis, 2 BMWs and 2 Passats) - it has a 1.3 16v Toyota Yaris engine which gives a great power to weight ratio - 101 bhp / the weight is less than 2 bags of flour - never gives less than 42 mpg, and it only cost us £2000 in the first place!

So 'nuts' to Clarkson.





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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karlak

posted on 29/1/12 at 08:50 AM Reply With Quote
We had a similar issue with my Sons Polo. Altho, we could clear the fault with the VCDS (Vagcom) reader.

The Vagcom reader was complaining about Lambda sensors and Fuel readings. It wasnt unitl the car went for a MOT that they noticed a section of exhaust pipe, after the Cat and 2nd Lambda sensor, which has a "flexi" section was Leaking. Really strange as it was giving no exhaust blowing sounds at all. Not repairable, so replacement section was required.

On the first start afterwards, the ECU light went out and the VAGCOM reader has been clear since. I guess the loos of back pressure after the sensor meant that the readings were not correct.





MK Indy - 2litre Duratec - Omex 600 - Jenvey throttle bodies - ETB DigiDash2

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stevegough

posted on 29/1/12 at 09:16 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by karlak
We had a similar issue with my Sons Polo. Altho, we could clear the fault with the VCDS (Vagcom) reader.

The Vagcom reader was complaining about Lambda sensors and Fuel readings. It wasnt unitl the car went for a MOT that they noticed a section of exhaust pipe, after the Cat and 2nd Lambda sensor, which has a "flexi" section was Leaking. Really strange as it was giving no exhaust blowing sounds at all. Not repairable, so replacement section was required.

On the first start afterwards, the ECU light went out and the VAGCOM reader has been clear since. I guess the loos of back pressure after the sensor meant that the readings were not correct.



A hole in the exhaust can also allow air in - increasing the O2 levels which the Lambda sensor reads as a combustion fail.





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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40inches

posted on 29/1/12 at 11:23 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
quote:
Originally posted by T66
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
The engine warning light is a notification that a fault exists. Resetting it by disconnecting the battery is fine but if it happens to be something which could go on to say kill your catalytic converter then you will wish you had investigated.

The only way to work out what it means is to use a code reader - they start on ebay for less than £20 and are a worth while addition to any ones tool box.




Corrected - I did actually know what the cel on the Saab was, and was aware of what was causing it. Your very right Mook


Fair play to you - as a Saab owner myself I have become adept at resetting the CEL


Same here, often get a temp reading CEL on the 9-3, pulling fuse 17 for 5 minutes resets ECU.
I have a Gendan package on the Netbook so can check CEL's first time round.






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stevegough

posted on 29/1/12 at 02:20 PM Reply With Quote
Ok, disconnected the battery for 40 mins, reconnected it and it has extinguished - and hasn't come back on - had a 20 min drive picking the grand-kids, it hasn't come back on yet. Thanks, and watch this space.....





Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14

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owelly

posted on 29/1/12 at 02:45 PM Reply With Quote
And just to add for further searches:
Should an OBD check throw-up some seemingly unrelated faults, interrogate the data (if possible) to check the voltage at the time of the fault ping. Low battery volts can cause all sorts of sensors to be out of tolerance. I'm only guessing, but your Diahatsu will have neen ticking-over for ten minutes, in the freezing cold, with the heater blower on max and the heated rear window on?
May be worth having the baytery tested anyway, just in case?





http://www.ppcmag.co.uk

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T66

posted on 29/1/12 at 04:31 PM Reply With Quote
Same here, often get a temp reading CEL on the 9-3, pulling fuse 17 for 5 minutes resets ECU.
I have a Gendan package on the Netbook so can check CEL's first time round.





I used to have all the canusb lead & diy interface to plug the Saab ecu into my PC. But there is a feature available whereby you can leave the SID info open, and display it on the screen. This includes the error codes if it shows one, MIFI which is misfires, and so on. KNK for knocks etc

Froggy with his Saab Kitten has the SAAB PC running I think -


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyr7ezhzPc4&feature=related






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40inches

posted on 29/1/12 at 04:58 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by T66
Same here, often get a temp reading CEL on the 9-3, pulling fuse 17 for 5 minutes resets ECU.
I have a Gendan package on the Netbook so can check CEL's first time round.





I used to have all the canusb lead & diy interface to plug the Saab ecu into my PC. But there is a feature available whereby you can leave the SID info open, and display it on the screen. This includes the error codes if it shows one, MIFI which is misfires, and so on. KNK for knocks etc

Froggy with his Saab Kitten has the SAAB PC running I think -


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyr7ezhzPc4&feature=related


Got the SID open, but the pixel gremlins have struck the display and can't read that much
Will have to send it for repair when I can be arrased.






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