RK
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posted on 25/3/12 at 09:18 PM |
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MK Indy ride height
OK, I have reinstalled softer, shorter springs. The rear end is much much better. The front no.
I have a little over 7 cm clearance to the chassis on both sides at the front (about 3 cm clearance for the oil pan), and about 9 cm at the rear. I
have 13" wheels, so lower than standard anyways. I used to have long (8" long) 600 lb springs on the front and back, except it was hard as
a rock, and undriveable as a result (not handling at all).
The ProTech dampers are 11" eye to eye at the back and 10", when compressed (engine in), at the front. I have screwed the collars about
1/2 way down at the fronts, which does not leave a huge amount of travel for the front springs. I know I can adjust the rebound control to slow fully
extending on droop.
So to have a bit more clearance: Bigger wheels are on order.
What else do people do? Do I just keep preloading the springs until there is no travel left, to get more height?
[Edited on 25/3/12 by RK]
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Madinventions
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posted on 25/3/12 at 09:44 PM |
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I had a similar problem and spoke to Protech who supplied me with some extended top eyes (+20mm iirc?).
I'll see if I can find a photo...
Ed.
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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Madinventions
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posted on 25/3/12 at 09:46 PM |
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Turns out they were +25mm from my notes. Here you go...
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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RK
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posted on 25/3/12 at 11:09 PM |
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Excellent! Thank you very much for that. I will get in touch with the ProTech people. They are always helpful.
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dhutch
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posted on 26/3/12 at 09:33 AM |
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7cm? Thats nearly thre inches, fair too much.....
Seriously thats about all ive got on the westfield! But assuming your not about to start hitting the droop-stops I see no harm in adjusting the spring
seats a little to compensate for a slightly shorter spring.
Daniel
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snapper
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posted on 26/3/12 at 11:23 AM |
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Read on
quote:
about 3 cm clearance for the oil pan
That's only 1 1/5th inch
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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RK
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posted on 26/3/12 at 12:32 PM |
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Yes it is. Hence the concern.
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procomp
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posted on 26/3/12 at 12:58 PM |
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Hi
As standard Mk supply 13" open length dampers which should be OK for use with both 13" and 15" wheels/tyres.
However what you want to do to get the best setup is work backwards. Start by chocking the chassis with wood or packers Etc to the desired ride
height you require under the chassis. Then measure the distance between the damper mounting point's. All you need to do then is ADD the extra
length required to give the correct amount of rebound travel remembering to take into account the fact that the front dampers are on a high angle so
it is not a case of 1" chassis movement = 1" on damper. it will be more like 1" of chassis movement in height will only require
1/4" of extra length as such.
Cheers Matt
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MkIndy7
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posted on 26/3/12 at 01:37 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by procomp
Hi
As standard Mk supply 13" open length dampers which should be OK for use with both 13" and 15" wheels/tyres.
However what you want to do to get the best setup is work backwards. Start by chocking the chassis with wood or packers Etc to the desired ride
height you require under the chassis. Then measure the distance between the damper mounting point's. All you need to do then is ADD the extra
length required to give the correct amount of rebound travel remembering to take into account the fact that the front dampers are on a high angle so
it is not a case of 1" chassis movement = 1" on damper. it will be more like 1" of chassis movement in height will only require
1/4" of extra length as such.
Cheers Matt
Excellent info and a well explained method of obtaining the measurements (I presume this is the ( "open length" )..
But could you explain how you would know or measure "the correct amount of rebound travel"
Do you just arc the wheel up as high as it can go and then re-measure? (giving the closed length?)
Cheers, Ian
[Edited on 26/3/12 by MkIndy7]
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dhutch
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posted on 26/3/12 at 02:48 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by snapper
Read on
That's only 1 1/5th inch
Yeah, which is a bit tight. But at the same time i did the last three years with 3inchs to the chassis and 2 to the sump before fitting a shortened
sump at the end of this winter.
Daniel
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RK
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posted on 26/3/12 at 04:03 PM |
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I'm afraid I will run out of useable coil length if I crank on any more collar. FIY, ProTech charges 12 pounds each extension. I will fiddle
around the Matt (Procomp) method prior to springing for any more equipment (he said). I am 100% sure that my shocks are not 13" free length, eye
to eye.
I'm very interested to know different people's setups and experiences. Keep them coming, please!
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Not Anumber
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posted on 15/5/12 at 09:27 AM |
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Is there a basic setup / adjustment guide anywhere for Protech shocks on an Indy ?
The front shocks were replaced and setup by HandyAndy when he rebuilt the front end recently but I'd like to check and adjust the rears as
theyve been on the car since it was built 8 years ago. Ive orderd a C spanner and been reading various threads but no idea how to adjust or whether
the adjustment is for rebound rate, height or both ?
The car is a fairly standard build throughout (Pinto, type 9 etc) so I suspect the shocks will be the bog standard length Protechs supplied by MK at
the time.
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