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Author: Subject: "How to" OEM zetec ecu with Pats info.
big_wasa

posted on 25/3/13 at 08:35 PM Reply With Quote
"How to" OEM zetec ecu with Pats info.

WARNING I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSSES OR INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN THIS POST.


As this is locost builders there are some people left that love to tinker and make things.
This is to give those people that are interested in running a ford efi engine on a budget a little more info on how the Immobilizer can be used out of the donor car.

The key to using the the ecu is the Pat's immobilizer. You must get atleast one key with chip that is matched to the ecu.

You can not bypass it but you can use it.

Silver Top

The following pinouts are ONLY for the ecu with the code OWLS but with the info you can often work out other ecu's
Ford 104 pin Mondeo 1997 “owls” ecu plug.



Missing numbers have no connection and are not used on the owls ecu or the function has not been found. This is still under development.

Pin number -- colour -- function.

08 yellow/green -- Pats
13 white/blue--Data Link connector.
15 blue-- Data Link connector.
16 grey-- Data Link connector.
19 grey/orange -- Pats TX signal.
20 black/blue -- Injector 3 switched earth.
21 white/red -- crankshaft position sensor +.
22 brown/rd --crankshaft position sensor -.
24 black/yellow -- ground
25 black/red -- ground separate earth @ ecu plug.
26 brown/blue -- switched earth coil 1 (pin 1 on coil).
27 black/yellow starter relay inhibiter
30 white/black -- octane plug
36 brown/blue -- MAF.
38 white/green -- Engine coolant temp sensor.
39 white violet -- Air temp sensor.
40 violet/black -- fuel pump monitor.
42 black/blue -- PATS Led.
48 white -- Tacho.
51 black/yellow -- ground.
52 brown/blue -- switched ground coil 2 (pin 3 on coil)
53 white/green -- Pats RX signal.
54 black/blue -- fuel pump switched earth.
55 orange/yellow Pin 10 c2513 KAM perm live.
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
70 black/white -- injector 1 switched earth.
71 green/yellow -- switched 12v from power relay.
76 brown/white -- Cam position sensor.
77 black/yellow -- ground.
83 green/yellow -- idle air control valve.
85 white violet -- camshaft position sensor.
88 white/blue -- MAF.
89 white -- throttle position sensor.
90 yellow -- 5v Voltage Reference (tps)
91 brown -- sensor common.
93 black/yellow -- HO2S 1 control (earth).
95 black/orange -- injector 4 switched earth.
96 black/yellow -- injector 2 switched earth.
97 green/yellow -- switched 12v.
103 black/yellow -- earth.

Black Top

Ford 104 pin Mondeo 1999 “owl5” Pcm plug. C401.

Pin number -- colour -- function.

13 white/blue--Data Link connector.
15 blue-- Data Link connector.
16 grey-- Data Link connector.
17 black/white -- to PIN 25 on c2513.
19 grey/orange -- to Pin 32 on c2513 Pats TX signal.
20 black/blue -- Injector 3 switched earth.
21 white/red -- crankshaft position sensor +.
22 brown/rd --crankshaft position sensor -.
24 black/yellow -- ground pin 9 on c2513.
25 black/red -- ground separate earth @ Pcm plug.
26 black/blue -- switched earth coil 1 (pin 1 on coil).
27 black/yellow -- pin 36 on square c2513 start inhibit relay circuit. ???
28 white/violet -- pin 13 on c2513 vehicle speed signal ( split to Pcm and dash).
31 white -- pin 7 on c2513 Power steering pressure switch. ???
36 brown/blue -- Pin 4 on square c2513 MAF return.
38 white/green -- coolant temp sensor (P1 mini timer)
39 white violet -- Air temp in MAF (P1 Maf plug)
40 violet/black -- Pin 19 c2513 fuel pump monitor.
41 violet/blue -- Pin 23 c2513 A/C clutch pressure switch.???
42 black/blue -- Pin 6 c2513 PATS Led. ???
43 white -- Pin 28 on c2513 sensor signal white. ???
47 black/green -- vacuum solenoid valve control (pin 2 small plug).
48 white -- Pin 30 on c2513 Tacho.
51 black/yellow -- Pin 9 on c2513 ground.
52 brown/blue -- switched ground coil 2 (pin 3 on coil)
53 white/green -- Pin 35 on c2513 s Pats RX signal.
54 black/blue -- Pin 5 on c2513 fuel pump switched earth.
55 orange/yellow Pin 10 c2513 KAM perm live.
58 white/blue -- Pin 2 on c2513 Vehicle speed Sensor.
59 white/green -- Alternator monitor circuit (Pin 2 on alt plug)
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
64 white -- Pin 39 c2513 clutch switch.???
65 white/green -- exhaust pressure transducer signal(large plug )
67 black/orange -- Pin 18 c2513EVAP canister vent control . ???
68 black/blue -- Pin 20 c2513 switched ground black/blue ???
69 black/yellow -- Pin 27 c2513 switched ground. ???
70 black/white -- injector 1 switched earth.
71 green/yellow -- switched 12v from power relay.
76 brown/white -- Cam position sensor.
77 black/yellow -- Pin 9 c2513 earth.
83 green/yellow -- idle air control valve (pin 2).
85 white violet -- camshaft position sensor.
86 black/blue -- Pin 40 c2513. ???
88 white/blue -- MAF output.
89 white -- throttle position sensor (pin 2)
90 yellow -- 5v Voltage Reference (5v out from ecu)
91 brown -- Pin 38 c2513 + sensor common brown
93 black/yellow -- HO2S 1 control.
95 black/orange -- injector 4 switched earth.
96 black/yellow -- injector 2 switched earth.
97 green/yellow -- Pin 1 c2513 switched 12v.
103 black/yellow -- Pin 9 c2513 earth.


“DLC” Diagnostic link connector.

The obd2 plug is found under the steering wheel. The plastic body should be unclipped from its holder and cut from the Mondeo with as much wire as can be pulled free.
The tape covering the wires can be removed.

You will be left with This.



The pin’s are numbered as below.



Not all pins are used.

Pin out’s of the Dlc plug, these go to your harness plug.

2) To pin 16 (grey) on ecu plug.
4) To earth (Chassis).
5) To earth (chassis).
7) To pin 13 (white/blue) on ecu plug.
10) To pin 15 (blue) on ecu plug.
16) To switched 12v fuse box.

Pats indicator. This is the led that is usually found in the clock of the Mondeo. Its job is to show you the status of the immobilizer. Ford’s Passive Anti- Theft- System ( PATS )

Just one Pin from the ecu plug, No 42 (black/blue). This is a switched earth. Take one Led, colour of your choice. You need one that is pre wired with a resistor. This is mounted in your dash. The negative or black wire is connected to pin 42 of the ecu plug and the red or positive wire is connected to the permanent live.



The Immobilizer.

The picture below shows the transceiver or aerial. This is found behind the steering cowl. The ring sit’s around the ignition switch and is held to the steering column with one screw.



This is the wiring plug.



It needs cutting from the car with as much wire as can be pulled free.

Retaining clip shown at the bottom.

There are four pins, They may be colour coded as above or they may be all black as shown in the photo. This depends on the age of the donor.



Pin 3 to pin 19 grey/orange -- Pats TX signal.

Pin 4 to pin 53 white/green -- Pats RX signal.

Pin 2 is the earth, to chassis.

Pin 1 is a switched 12v.

All four wires will need extending from the harness plug up to the steering column.

Fuel pump relay.

The Ecu, both controls and monitors the fuel pump via a relay.

There are two pins from the ecu plug.

Pin 54 (black/blue) from ecu plug, Fuel pump relay control switched earth.

Pin 40 (violet/black) from ecu plug, fuel pump monitor.



Starter motor inhibitor relay. This stops the engine from cranking as part of the immobilizer.

Pin 27 (black/yellow) ecu plug -- starter motor relay control (switched earth).





Hope this helps any one wanting to run a zetec without spending shed loads. Its no harder than making a loom for a MS ecu. There is no mapping and the ecu can be had for a few quid.

ps it would be nice if it was made a sticky.

[Edited on 26/3/13 by big_wasa]

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slingshot2000

posted on 25/3/13 at 10:18 PM Reply With Quote
Warren,
I have no idea of how much time and effort you had to do behind the scenes so that you could post this,
but I bet it was a LOT !

I would just like to say thank you for your efforts, and I am sure it will be widely used!

+1 for making this a sticky !

Kind regards
Jon



(Edited for stupid spelling error!)>

[Edited on 25/3/13 by slingshot2000]

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dave-69isit

posted on 25/3/13 at 10:47 PM Reply With Quote
sticky please

sticky please
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AdrianH

posted on 26/3/13 at 07:39 AM Reply With Quote
A question that is asked by many,. including me.

Sticky please

Adrian





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
Build diary at http://www.tamarisktechnicals.com/pages/roadster.html

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big_wasa

posted on 26/3/13 at 09:09 AM Reply With Quote
If there is interest I will post up info on the black top pin outs and pin outs for the 42 pin plug ?
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whitestu

posted on 26/3/13 at 09:48 AM Reply With Quote
quote:

If there is interest I will post up info on the black top pin outs and pin outs for the 42 pin plug ?



Yes please!

Stu

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AndyW

posted on 26/3/13 at 10:25 AM Reply With Quote
I just want to add a massive thanks to Warren and the amount of time he has put into this. I have mine running this exact set up with help from Warren. He has always been willing to help with questions. Thanks mate!

(PS Warren I still have the bell housing for you, and will drop it over soon!)

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whitestu

posted on 26/3/13 at 02:34 PM Reply With Quote
I wonder how an efi setup using the standard bits would compare to bike carbs?

I fancy having a play with efi but don't want to shell out for a megasquirt or Omex.

Stu

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big_wasa

posted on 26/3/13 at 03:24 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
I wonder how an efi setup using the standard bits would compare to bike carbs?

I fancy having a play with efi but don't want to shell out for a megasquirt or Omex.

Stu

.
Great drive ability much better emissions, better fuel mpg and much cheaper than bike carbs.

My ecu and loom stands me less than an edis4 sells for on ebay.

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whitestu

posted on 26/3/13 at 03:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by whitestu
I wonder how an efi setup using the standard bits would compare to bike carbs?

I fancy having a play with efi but don't want to shell out for a megasquirt or Omex.

Stu
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Great drive ability much better emissions, better fuel mpg and much cheaper than bike carbs.

My ecu and loom stands me less than an edis4 sells for on ebay



Drivability and MPG are good [I've already got bike carbs], though I'm sure OEM efi would need less fiddling about with.

My question was more about how much less power I might have with an OEM efi set up compared to 4 x 38mm mikunis, which I know is an impossible question to answer but was interested to know other people's opinions.

Thanks

Stu

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big_wasa

posted on 26/3/13 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote
A 2.0 zetec on carbs with a good exhaust ect should be 165 ish The same breathing mods with the oem ecu has been shown to be around 150.
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dave-69isit

posted on 26/3/13 at 09:03 PM Reply With Quote
ecu

im in the middle of sorting manifold for bodies on standard ecu hope to be close to 160
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whitestu

posted on 27/3/13 at 07:52 AM Reply With Quote
quote:

ecu

im in the middle of sorting manifold for bodies on standard ecu hope to be close to 160



Will a standard ECU run throttle bodies?

Stu

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dave-69isit

posted on 27/3/13 at 08:49 PM Reply With Quote
ecu

you need to run air flow meter
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taunus 78

posted on 23/4/13 at 02:54 PM Reply With Quote
Greetings from Finland.
First i wanna thank you for that information.
And then the guestion, what should i do with the vss (vehicle speed sensor)
Someone told me that i cant use original ecu because of pats and vss.
Im putting 1.8 zetec from 97 Mondeo to 75 Taunus coupe, gearbox is gonna be t9.

Thanks and sorry for my bad english.





Taunus 2.8i automatic 78'
Taunus 1.6 77'
Taunus coupe (zetec) 75'
Sierra 2.3 V6 82'

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big_wasa

posted on 23/4/13 at 04:42 PM Reply With Quote
Language, I can only just about speak English so you are way way in front of me on that score

Yes lots of people will tell you, you can not use the ecu because of the pats but there you go.

I've run them with and with out the vss and can not tell a difference. One car I wired up passed iva emissions with no problems at all with out the vss signal. The reading I've done says the ecu uses the vss to cut fuel on over run ie coasting to prevent dumping un burnt fuel down the exhaust and into the cat.

Long term running with out the vss signal will show a code in the ecu. The early ecu doesn't have a MIL light or the over cautious Limp home mode newer ecu's have.

I have now gone back and connected the vss up using the sensor in my MT75 You can also get an adapter to run a Mondeo vss sensor on the Type 9 if you have the space in the tunnel.

Its a Hall affect sensor. voltage (5v~12v) earth and sense. The signal feeds both the ecu and the speedo in the dash.



cheers

[Edited on 23/4/13 by big_wasa]

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taunus 78

posted on 23/4/13 at 05:37 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for answering.
Maybe i try without vss first and get the adapter if it doesnt work.
1 guestion about the adapter, can i stil use original cable speedometer from Taunus with the adapter?
Id like my original gauges to work, heres pic of them.

gauges





Taunus 2.8i automatic 78'
Taunus 1.6 77'
Taunus coupe (zetec) 75'
Sierra 2.3 V6 82'

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big_wasa

posted on 23/4/13 at 05:45 PM Reply With Quote
If you do a search there are lots of ways to do it and the last of the T9 with efi came with vss and cable drives fitted.

One of many links on the subject.

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taunus 78

posted on 23/4/13 at 06:23 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks! now i know its plausible to get both work.
Hope i get my zetec coupe running this summer...





Taunus 2.8i automatic 78'
Taunus 1.6 77'
Taunus coupe (zetec) 75'
Sierra 2.3 V6 82'

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big_wasa

posted on 23/4/13 at 06:31 PM Reply With Quote
Ive done loads


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taunus 78

posted on 25/4/13 at 10:13 AM Reply With Quote
Watched some of your videos from youtube, looks very nice
Btw, my ecu pinout looks same than that 'owls' but it says 'noah' is it the same?





Taunus 2.8i automatic 78'
Taunus 1.6 77'
Taunus coupe (zetec) 75'
Sierra 2.3 V6 82'

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zetec-phill

posted on 25/4/13 at 03:35 PM Reply With Quote
eco

Thanks for that info Warren....
Much needed...

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big_wasa

posted on 25/4/13 at 05:37 PM Reply With Quote
Like it says in the first post, the info is for the ecu that is named but the info can help you work out other ecu's but I havnt done every ecu.



quote:
Originally posted by taunus 78
Watched some of your videos from youtube, looks very nice
Btw, my ecu pinout looks same than that 'owls' but it says 'noah' is it the same?

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snowy2

posted on 18/5/13 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
i just acquired a mondeo 1.8 as a donor it cost me £150 so since it came so cheap i am looking to see if the original ECU is reusable. its a mission to see how cheap it can all be done and still be viable.
the inlet manifold is bulky and in the way of my steering column, so if i remove it and fit something slimmer what effect does it have on the management? is the Ford ECU reprogrammable to correct it? or is it best to keep the standard inlet manifold?





sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.

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big_wasa

posted on 19/5/13 at 08:23 AM Reply With Quote
Then you have most of the parts you need for a Budget zetec install.

As with anything Cost reduces with the amount of stuff you can make and do for your self.

In theory the ecu can be mapped, flashed or chipped. The reality is if you intend to do this you may as well start with aftermarket management due to cost over gain.

The ecu handles small changes very well. You don't need the inlet manifold for it all to work as the ecu does not see a manifold it see's sensor signals. The key to having the ford ecu run well and cheap is you need to use the sensors.

There are lots of ways of getting around the plastic manifold.

I've run a very compact Log manifold that I made with the Tb stuck on the end. Do a search for Ginetta / Griffin zetec manifolds. Neither are available now. Gbs do a nice one But none of these had mountings for the standard Idle control valve and this really does make the car start and idle like a factory car no matter what the temperature.

There is a chap on here that ran his with bike throttle bodies. just a case of sticking a plenum on them so you can stick the maf on the front for the ecu to see load.

You could even use the up and over cast alloy manifold. The top sticks out of the bonnet a bit but can still look good.

Up shot is, the standard 136ps spec 2.0 engine with free flowing exhaust and inlet will give 150bhp at the fly' And the same engine with jenveys will give 165bhp so 15bhp will cost you £2.5k by the time its mapped. To get more from a zetec requires headwork and cams. (This has been dynode to back this up but not by me.)

Good look

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