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Author: Subject: Does this sound like a healthy battery?
AndyW

posted on 4/10/13 at 10:24 AM Reply With Quote
Does this sound like a healthy battery?

I Guys,

Still trying to get to the bottom of the hot start issue.

Battery as it stands is 12.4v across the terminals.

On cranking 9.9v to 10.0v

Engine ticking over 13.4v

Engine revving at around 2000rpm is 13.5v steady.

On cold start, car been sitting for a day or so, starts first time. Go for drive (short distance about 5 miles) or leave car ticking over whilst checking hoses etc, gets up to temp, fan kicks in and out all ok.

Stop the engine, then try and re-start and it barely turns over, as if trying to start with a flat battery.

Let everything cool down and it starts fine.

I don't want to start replacing things here there and everywhere, would rather a methodical way of checking things out to see what is happening. Another member had similar issues and replaced starter (along with other things), but just wanted to see if anything else is worth checking first, as I can't understand how a dodgy starter would create these symptoms.

I will check earths, etc but could do with where to start really. At the moment I don't want to go out too far, as if I need petrol the thing wont start again.

Any help as always appreciated.

Ta

Andy

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coozer

posted on 4/10/13 at 10:43 AM Reply With Quote
Sounds like the engine heat is causing a short somewhere. Maybe the windings in the starter, or relay if fitted, or a break somewhere in the wiring insulation allowing the volts to escape.

I had a similar experience (but all the time) where the battery measured fine but applying the starter the load caused a short inside the battery.





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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steve m

posted on 4/10/13 at 10:57 AM Reply With Quote
Ive had similar problems on my 7, and it got so bad I was petrified of driving it, in case it stalled, as hot it would barely turn over
and it was not a timing issue (crossflow)

I changed the starter motor, no difference
checked the wiring loom, no difference
installed a cut off switch, no difference

changed the battery, to one that would jump start the Titanic, works every time, and spins the engine so fast it registers on the rev counter !!

the old battery is 2 years old, and never worked properly but I can not find the receipt, so lost about £50

Steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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steve m

posted on 4/10/13 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
The only other thing, that I did do, was to connect the - from battery to chassis and engine, so two separate wires
and ive installed another alternator to chassis wire as well, "belt and braces"
only as I had them in stock
ALL the other main feed battery wiring is less than a year old,

Steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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britishtrident

posted on 4/10/13 at 11:04 AM Reply With Quote
Root cause is too much ignition advance at cranking speeds, the engine is trying to start backwards fighting against the starter.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

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stevebubs

posted on 4/10/13 at 11:04 AM Reply With Quote
I had similar with my zetec; had to back off the timing when cranking. When I did that, the problem went away.
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AndyW

posted on 4/10/13 at 11:48 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Root cause is too much ignition advance at cranking speeds, the engine is trying to start backwards fighting against the starter.


I'm using a standard ecu so no ability to change , all pre-set parameters.

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AndyW

posted on 4/10/13 at 11:50 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by steve m
The only other thing, that I did do, was to connect the - from battery to chassis and engine, so two separate wires
and ive installed another alternator to chassis wire as well, "belt and braces"
only as I had them in stock
ALL the other main feed battery wiring is less than a year old,

Steve


I have the battery - to chassis, and an engine - to chassis, 2 separate cables, so will also check those out.

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steve m

posted on 4/10/13 at 11:53 AM Reply With Quote
Mine was also not timing, as even with the coil disconnected, it would not turn over fast enough





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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Peteff

posted on 4/10/13 at 12:20 PM Reply With Quote
12.4v is not a healthy battery it wants to be over 12.6v with the engine off.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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stevebubs

posted on 4/10/13 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by AndyW
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Root cause is too much ignition advance at cranking speeds, the engine is trying to start backwards fighting against the starter.


I'm using a standard ecu so no ability to change , all pre-set parameters.


In which case, does adding extra current using jump leads to the tintop help?

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AndyW

posted on 4/10/13 at 12:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
quote:
Originally posted by AndyW
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Root cause is too much ignition advance at cranking speeds, the engine is trying to start backwards fighting against the starter.


I'm using a standard ecu so no ability to change , all pre-set parameters.


In which case, does adding extra current using jump leads to the tintop help?


Yes, as soon as I add either jumper cables or a starter pack, fires right up.

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AndyW

posted on 4/10/13 at 12:44 PM Reply With Quote
Could it be that due to the amount of testing the car had recently, and not actually driving, the battery could just need a dam good charge???
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stevebubs

posted on 4/10/13 at 12:48 PM Reply With Quote
then I would definitely point the finger at the battery not being able to provide enough starting current.

You could try giving it a good charge / using an Accumate but I would suspect you're original thoughts are right and it's on the way out....

[Edited on 4/10/13 by stevebubs]

[Edited on 4/10/13 by stevebubs]

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Davegtst

posted on 4/10/13 at 01:34 PM Reply With Quote
Drive it down to halfrauds. They should test foc for you.
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stevebubs

posted on 4/10/13 at 03:51 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Davegtst
Drive it down to halfrauds. They should test foc for you.


Their reputation for getting it right isn't great....

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Davegtst

posted on 4/10/13 at 03:57 PM Reply With Quote
Maybe not but they do have battery testing tools. Have you got a heat shield around the starter?
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britishtrident

posted on 4/10/13 at 05:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by AndyW
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Root cause is too much ignition advance at cranking speeds, the engine is trying to start backwards fighting against the starter.


I'm using a standard ecu so no ability to change , all pre-set parameters.


You have the full Zetec system then, usually excessive ignition advance occurs on Zetecs that have been fitted using the CVH ESC ignition module.
The CVH ESC module gives excessive ignition advance when fitted to a Zetec because CVH engine has combustion chamber shape with very slow combustion to more modern engines like the Zetec.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

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