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Author: Subject: Vacuume Pump
AntonUK

posted on 21/10/13 at 05:48 AM Reply With Quote
Vacuume Pump

I'm having trouble bleeding the last bits of air out of the wife's honda civic's brakes following a full overhaul.

It's about time I invested in a proper bleed kit rather than the old jar and bit of pipe technique, especially as I have the ginetta to do too soon.

What are your recommendations on a more pro/useful but if kit?

Tempted ATM by a mittvac type
http://bit.ly/1a1Df63

Or one of these that uses my compressor?
http://bit.ly/PPqQDw





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RickRick

posted on 21/10/13 at 06:01 AM Reply With Quote
my brother had the first one, i got the second one, my brother now has the second one.
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40inches

posted on 21/10/13 at 07:18 AM Reply With Quote
I use one of these: Pela 6000 Oil Fluid Extractor Vacuum Pump Extraction Boat Car 6ltr Free Gloves. Never fails.






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britishtrident

posted on 21/10/13 at 07:25 AM Reply With Quote
Waste of time they can draw more air into the system as master cylinder seals are not designed to seal against vacuum.

Top down low pressure bleeding is the best way, a cheap and cheerful Eezibleed is fine provided you have a normal screw fitting cap on the reservoir.

Also even when using any kind of bleeding tool it is essential to give the pedal a couple of pumps to ensure the master cylinder is properly primed.





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40inches

posted on 21/10/13 at 07:45 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Waste of time they can draw more air into the system as master cylinder seals are not designed to seal against vacuum.

Top down low pressure bleeding is the best way, a cheap and cheerful Eezibleed is fine provided you have a normal screw fitting cap on the reservoir.

Also even when using any kind of bleeding tool it is essential to give the pedal a couple of pumps to ensure the master cylinder is properly primed.


Sorry BT, but I have used the Pela for brake bleeding for 15 years, it has worked where the EziBleed failed, my sons Mk2 MR2 clutch slave cylinder for instance. I have frequently used both at the same time though, for difficult systems. I have found the EziBleed difficult to seal on occasion so I don't fill the reservoir, just keep an eye on the level in the master cylinder.






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acb2713

posted on 21/10/13 at 09:34 AM Reply With Quote
A friend of mine, a mechanic of close on fifty years experience, claims to use a powered screen-wash bottle, to reverse bleed the brakes from the bleed nipple at each wheel. When the pump gives up, he gets another. It is larger trucks that he works on, so that may make a difference. I am not familiar with these vehicles, so I cannot comment any further on this procedure. I have yet to try it out myself. However, he started his trade when everything was repairable, rather than replaceable, so I guess he does know a thing or two.

Perhaps it might be worth a try, as long as someone is carefully watching out for the master cylinder overflowing.

Regards,

Albert

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Slimy38

posted on 21/10/13 at 12:49 PM Reply With Quote
I had all sorts of trouble with my eezibleed to start with, with fluid just being squirted everywhere and nothing actually sealing right. Then I realised it only needs pressure slightly above atmospheric to work, and it turned into a really easy job. I've yet to do a clutch though, only because my car clutch bleed nipple won't budge!!
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v8kid

posted on 21/10/13 at 01:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
I had all sorts of trouble with my eezibleed to start with, with fluid just being squirted everywhere and nothing actually sealing right. Then I realised it only needs pressure slightly above atmospheric to work, and it turned into a really easy job. !


I've used eazybleed for years with great success but Slimy is right the literature is misleading as it shows a spare tyre used as an air supply. As these are in the region of 30psi it is way too much pressure 5psi is ample in my experience.

I've also heard bad things about vac pumps so 40" comments are interesting as I use a vac pump to sook oil out but have never used it on hydraulics - I'll try next time





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Dingz

posted on 21/10/13 at 01:23 PM Reply With Quote
I bought a vacuum type as I had difficulty with my old vectra brakes, worked fine, the disadvantage I had is that they draw air in from around the thread on the bleed nipple screw in the form of very fine bubbles so you have to decide when they they are important bubbles or not!





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40inches

posted on 21/10/13 at 01:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dingz
I bought a vacuum type as I had difficulty with my old vectra brakes, worked fine, the disadvantage I had is that they draw air in from around the thread on the bleed nipple screw in the form of very fine bubbles so you have to decide when they they are important bubbles or not!

I put a few of turns of PTFE tape halfway up the thread on the nipple (well away from the tapered end) stops the Alkaseltzer effect






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ashg

posted on 21/10/13 at 02:42 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dingz
I bought a vacuum type as I had difficulty with my old vectra brakes, worked fine, the disadvantage I had is that they draw air in from around the thread on the bleed nipple screw in the form of very fine bubbles so you have to decide when they they are important bubbles or not!


That's why I gave up with my sealey one that runs off the compressor. I went back to my ezybleed but I modified it so it can be run off the compressor rather than an old dirty tyre. Even still i only tend to use them if I'm replacing all the fluid or filling a new system for the first time, for the rest of the time I have a 1way valve and a pot that cost about £5 from halfords.





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paulf

posted on 21/10/13 at 06:50 PM Reply With Quote
I have a large glass syringe of about 100ml capacity and connect that to the bleed nipple and use it to draw fluid through when changing brake fluid.Sometimes it does the job ok on its own but it does tend to draw air past the nipple threads as mentioned, if there is a stubborn air lock I usually go back to the tube and bottle method, a bit of rubber tube with a bolt in the end and a knife cut in the side works well as a non return valve.
Paul

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ian locostzx9rc2

posted on 21/10/13 at 07:33 PM Reply With Quote
Also remember if the car has abs you should have the engine running whilst bleeding the brakes...
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Bare

posted on 21/10/13 at 08:11 PM Reply With Quote
Reverse bleed :-) Buy a cheap disposable 2 ounce plastic syringe (veterinary supply is a good start) Fill it full of fresh fluid Attach it to a caliper nipple then gently but forcefully.. slowly inject it's contents.
Repeat for all Bleed nipples in correct sequence. ..does take a bit of time as the fluid goes in sloowly.
This Works!! and requires no foolish hardware purchase.

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