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Author: Subject: Cost of new electric cooker supply?
McLannahan

posted on 15/1/14 at 12:50 PM Reply With Quote
Cost of new electric cooker supply?

Hello everyone - We presently have a gas cooker and we hate it. We bought a new one (from Argos) and that was even worse. I don't know if I want to risk it again so wondered if we had a new 30A supply put in for the cooker what the cost would be?

We only have a standard socket 13A behind the (ex) gas cooker and I don't believe a spur was ever installed (Kitchen is an 1980s extension to the property)

We do have a fairly new fuse board and it's protected with RCD's. There are a few spare slots as well as one or two redundant ones (water heater and now a combi boiler)

It would be a run of about six or seven meters in total from the board to the kitchen.

Any electricians any idea of what sort of cost this might be?

Thank you!

Michael






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big-vee-twin

posted on 15/1/14 at 01:09 PM Reply With Quote
You can run a electric oven off a 13 amp supply, its the hob that takes all the power.

Gas hob, electric oven?





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McLannahan

posted on 15/1/14 at 01:12 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry BVT, should have said that!

It's a standalone unit now - hob and oven in one with a glass top. There's no space in the kitchen to add an built-in unit so a standalone is our only option I think?

In an ideal world I'd actually like a gas hob and an electric oven - dual fuel?






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gremlin1234

posted on 15/1/14 at 01:40 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
In an ideal world I'd actually like a gas hob and an electric oven - dual fuel?

surprisingly common
http://www.johnlewis.com/home-garden/kitchen/cookers-ovens/cookers/dual=fuel-cookers-216/c8000013309

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mcerd1

posted on 15/1/14 at 02:06 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:
In an ideal world I'd actually like a gas hob and an electric oven - dual fuel?

surprisingly common


but a bit more expensive than a single fuel types...

we've just replaced our old knackered gas one with an all gas one again - mainly due to the extra cost of dual fuel ones and the power supply
(that and the fact that the electrician had already had over 1k off me for the rest of the house so there wasn't anything left in the bank add on more extra's)

a good electric oven would be ideal, but I got used to the last gas one eventually and I'm sure I'll get used to this one too
the biggest problem I've had with the new one is even the smallest hob won't go cool enough for some things - but a diffuser sorted that so were cooking with gas now!
the new one does have an electric grill that runs of a 13A plug - thats really is a massive improvement one the old gas one

I'd guess you'd be talking half a days work to pay for as long as its not too hard to get under the floor to run the new cable
then there is just the cost of the hardware (cable, socket, circuit breaker) - I'd guess 200ish +VAT based on other similar jobs I had done recently

[Edited on 15/1/2014 by mcerd1]





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McLannahan

posted on 15/1/14 at 02:23 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks MC - I know....depressing amount of money!

We had a Cannon and that had no temp control. Hadn't ever been cleaned properly and was "grubby" even after a deep clean. Used to take ages to light and oven didn't seem to cook well at all.

Ditched this for a new Argos supplied Bush. Absolutely terrible appliance. Light in weight (opening the oven door pulled the whole thing towards you), gas very often went out mid cooking, would never light either and finally even Gas Mark 9 (the highest setting) wasn't good enough to cook with. Oven chips took well over an hour and still weren't browned.

We only went with Argos because 1 - we thought it would be quick (took 2.5 months) and 2 - It was "cheap" (350) but we could use some Nectar points.

Awful piece of rubbish got picked up today and now we have nothing. In my old house I installed a new built in electric hob and halogen hob myself. The both of them came to about 360 and worked brilliantly. I stupidly thought that I could get something similar again for gas/dual fuel but no....A long way off!!

So we're presently without a cooker (Microwave though) and I'd love to have decent cooking back so I think it's electric oven and gas (booo) hob for us?






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mcerd1

posted on 15/1/14 at 03:09 PM Reply With Quote
^^ we got this one:

http://www.johnlewis.com/belling-fsg60dop-gas-cooker-stainless-steel/p231631750

to be honest its not fantastic but it works, I probably turn it almost 1/2 a gas mark higher than normal to get the same result as the last one, but I'm getting used to that slowly - and gas9 with turn oven chips into charcoal in 5 min flat :lol:

there are probably better ones out there, but she like the look of that one and it was in stock....
my mum got a big fancy 900mm wide rangemaster thing (all electric) and even that has a few niggles and is far from perfect
I guess all you can do is read as many reviews as you can and if possible try them before you buy


john lewis matched the price of anyone else and they delivered, installed and tested it for 75 on a date agreed the day we ordered it (the installers brought it with them and had it fitted in 30min)
the safety certificate turned up in the post the next week - I was very impressed with the service from them

[Edited on 15/1/2014 by mcerd1]





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Fozzie

posted on 15/1/14 at 04:43 PM Reply With Quote
No better than MC's help.......but just a few more for a bit of choice

Duel Fuel linky dink

Good luck ....

Fozzie





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JoelP

posted on 15/1/14 at 05:59 PM Reply With Quote
I picked up a very nice freestanding oven on eBay a few years ago for about 80 quid. If you could find a nice secondhand one it would offset the cost of the wiring.





Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.

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Macbeast

posted on 15/1/14 at 06:23 PM Reply With Quote
I think regs say you can't run an oven off a 13 A plug but have to have a fixed outlet off a DP switch.

I'm waiting to put in an oven rated at 3KW which is bloody close to 13A so - switch on a 2.5 KW kettle on the same ring cct and the breaker would go pop.
Reason for my delay is I have to lift carpets to run the cooker feed.





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JoelP

posted on 15/1/14 at 06:45 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Macbeast
I think regs say you can't run an oven off a 13 A plug but have to have a fixed outlet off a DP switch.

I'm waiting to put in an oven rated at 3KW which is bloody close to 13A so - switch on a 2.5 KW kettle on the same ring cct and the breaker would go pop.
Reason for my delay is I have to lift carpets to run the cooker feed.


Not quite right IMHO Mac. There is a suggestion in one appendix that appliances over 2kw might benefit from a dedicated circuit, but many ovens are fine on a 13a plug, indeed many specify that they have to have a 13a fuse. Also a 3kw oven and a 2.5kw kettle would not trip a 32a mcb. Indeed ovens very rarely pull their full rated curren.





Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.

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big-vee-twin

posted on 15/1/14 at 07:29 PM Reply With Quote
Quite often a 13amp socket is spurred off the cooker outlet box, controlled from the cooker switch.





Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016

http://www.triangleltd.com

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McLannahan

posted on 15/1/14 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks everyone, good to hear that the ideal appliance exists.

200 doesn't sound too bad to me but I suppose adding that to 400 odd for the cooker and then Gas Safe install of the cooker it's all really adding up!

Anyone an electrician and could guesstimate/ confirm a rough cost of 200 to have a feed added?

I think the feed would be the best way to go, at least that way if we can't get on with a gas hob we could have electric everything!

Michael






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