Mr C
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 05:40 PM |
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Supercharged Duratec Build
Just a quick post of a few images of the engine I've been messing about with since December, quite pleased with the end result thought I'd
share my second "proper" engine rebuild (the first was an impreza turbo lump).
Its a supercharged 2.0 duratec from a ST150. Briefly spec is:
Raceline sump
Cosworth Pistons
Williams Motorsport Forged Rods
Newman Cams (278) and heavy duty springs and matching retainers
R300 Plenum, 70mm throttle body
Rotrex C30-94 blower
Still awaiting a few bits, alternator, fuel rail etc though as good as completed, matching it to a 6 speed Maxda 3 MPS box for installation into a
"Midlana" chassis
A before with an after..
 
A couple of arty shots...
 
One more after..
Hping it'll go as well as it looks..
[Edited on 9/2/14 by Mr C]
[Edited on 9/2/14 by Mr C]
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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big_wasa
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 06:08 PM |
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Looks very nice. Have you started the Midlana chassis yet ?
Any links to the Scooby rebuild ? 
[Edited on 9/2/14 by big_wasa]
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Mr C
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 06:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Looks very nice. Have you started the Midlana chassis yet ?
Any links to the Scooby rebuild ?
[Edited on 9/2/14 by big_wasa]
Afraid not Wasa, I posted the build on Kent Scoobies, unfortunately the site is no more, image below as a consolation..
If you are thinking of rebuilding one, they are not too bad, splitting the crankcase is a PITA and a bit costly on parts compared with the Duratec.
When it fired up it was a sweet moment though..
Next step is build the chassis table and start on the chassis
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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TrophyJem
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 06:42 PM |
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That looks proper nice. What paint did you use on the block and cam cover?
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Mr C
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 07:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by TrophyJem
That looks proper nice. What paint did you use on the block and cam cover?
Etch primer and VHT engine enamel on the block, VHT crinkle paint on the covers. I normally use Simoniz alloy wheel paint and lacquer with etch primer
for an alloy finish on engines. Its fine with the heat and gives a good alloy look "Steel wheels" colour rather than "silver
wheels" which is too bright ( at least I think its that way round)
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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big_wasa
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 07:02 PM |
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even nicer
Are you planning on bending the cage your self or getting it done ? That and a few other toys are slowing me up starting the Midlana.
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Mr C
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 07:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
even nicer
Are you planning on bending the cage your self or getting it done ? That and a few other toys are slowing me up starting the Midlana.
Depends on how I decide to construct it, currently looking at making the chassis out of box with a bolt on cage,.. though thats for another thread
I have started a build thread on the Midlana forum though not a great deal on it currently.
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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jeffw
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 07:14 PM |
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Mike
Has anyone else ever used the R300 plenum for boosted applications?
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Mr C
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 07:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffw
Mike
Has anyone else ever used the R300 plenum for boosted applications?
Not that I know of Jeff, probably because they don't come up for sale that often and it wouldn't be suitable in most applications (RWD)
because of the rearward facing throttle body. I don't have an issue with this as the intercooler will sit at that end over the gearbox because
its going in a transverse package. The only downside I can see are the core plugs potentially blowing out, though 1 bar isn't huge boost in the
scheme of things, so they should be ok, if not I'll get new plugs tigged in or throw it way and get another one.
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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jeffw
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 07:46 PM |
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It would be interesting to pressure test it....It looks like it is in two parts?
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Mr C
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 08:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffw
It would be interesting to pressure test it....It looks like it is in two parts?
One part, its solid Jeff, "moulding lines" between the top and bottom.
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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big_wasa
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 08:12 PM |
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It would be great if some one started supplying bits like the cage tubes and laser cut plates. I did the make everything with the locost.
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 10:56 PM |
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What did you use to clean the block?
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SilverFox
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| posted on 10/2/14 at 03:12 AM |
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Who makes that nice looking dual idler pulley bracket?
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jeffw
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| posted on 10/2/14 at 06:18 AM |
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I presume it will be TTS
http://www.tts-performance.co.uk/#!ford-duratec-/c1amx
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Mr C
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| posted on 10/2/14 at 09:13 AM |
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As Jeff mentioned TTS make the supercharger kit.
There's no easy way to clean the block. I do an initial gunking then use brake / clutch cleaner to degrease. I also use alloy wheel cleaner
(halfords cheap brand) and have used oven cleaner thoughit is very aggressive. A few wire brushes and a drill come in handy. Or you could drop it off
at an engine specialist who will clean it for you.
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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SilverFox
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| posted on 10/2/14 at 08:34 PM |
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Thanks guys, that is a neat bit of kit - I guess the dual idler arrangement could also be used in a conventional belt arrangement - your engine choice
looks brilliant. Look forward to the MidLana install
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Mr C
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| posted on 10/2/14 at 09:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SilverFox
Thanks guys, that is a neat bit of kit - I guess the dual idler arrangement could also be used in a conventional belt arrangement - your engine choice
looks brilliant. Look forward to the MidLana install
Thanks all and thanks Silverfox for the compliments. Using the billet idler arrangement is an expensive way of routing the belt if you are not fitting
a supercharger. The most cost effective way is to use the standard idler wheels which fit with a single bolt to ensure the belt wraps around the
various drive pulleys adequately.
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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SilverFox
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| posted on 11/2/14 at 02:37 AM |
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I am in the process of assessing the best approach for idler and tensioner issue - you probably right. I have two issues, the first being the Ranger
front cover has the "conical hump" for the fan pulley, which might interfere with path of the belt. The other is the interference between
the tensioner (same as yours) and the TPS on the throttle bodies (modified GSXR).
But we'll get there.....
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peter030371
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| posted on 11/2/14 at 08:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SilverFox
I The other is the interference between the tensioner (same as yours) and the TPS on the throttle bodies (modified GSXR).
I am in the same position as you....Cosworth do a modified pulley
,click here, but having
never seen one or exactly what/ how they modify it then I am loathed to potentially waste £45 
My current plan, unless someone can tell me the Cosworth item fits with GSXR TB, is to have a fixed pulley in the same position and make the
alternator manually adjustable....is that a bad idea?
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SilverFox
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| posted on 11/2/14 at 10:28 PM |
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Thanks for link. Not so sure that Cosworth tensioner will help, but hard to tell from pictures. It seems to be as deep as the stock Ford.
I too am looking at the two options for tensioning either via the alternator mount located on the RHS (below headers) or making a bespoke adjusting
bracket for a normal pulley located in place of the proper pulley (in front of TB's). My TPS is a little larger, as I took forum advice to not
use the GSXR TPS which apparently performs more like a switch making MS tuning difficult, and adapt a progressive automotive TPS
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peter030371
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| posted on 24/2/14 at 02:50 PM |
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I don't often open the bonnet of my tintop (mazda 5) but the washer bottle was empty.....whilst doing that I noticed that the Mazda pulley
tensioner is a lot smaller than the standard ford item. A few minutes on ebay and I had found this Alternator Belt Tensioner Pulley
Mazda 5/3 Gates T38357 | eBay
lternator Belt Tensioner Pulley Mazda 5/3 Gates T38357 Its better than the Ford one but even so holding my GSXR bodies up to the Duratec in the
workshop its still tight.....not sure I want to send £38 to find its still too big
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SilverFox
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| posted on 24/2/14 at 07:36 PM |
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Thanks for the link. That Mazda tensioner may have potential, as I note that the rear of the spring casting is almost in-line with the two
upper/lower bolt holes. I need to snow shovel my out to the shop to refresh my memory on how the stock Ford compares in that regard....may take a
while!
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itsawindupuk
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| posted on 28/2/14 at 12:17 PM |
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I like the exhaust manifold, do you know the diameter of the primaries?
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Mr C
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| posted on 2/3/14 at 10:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by itsawindupuk
I like the exhaust manifold, do you know the diameter of the primaries?
Its a cheapie off the bay probably won't last long, as they hava a tendancy to crack. it'll do until I get the car built and IVA'd,
then I'll sort another one out if its no good. The primaries are 43mm OD
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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