James
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 03:15 PM |
|
|
Ideas on getting hot air out & photos of engine bay vents
Greetings all,
Finally have the car back on the road- tax, test, insured, new wheels and tires, carburettor, clutch cable (wow- the difference!) and a bunch of other
bits.
However, I have always had a problem with the engine bay pressurising and causing the bonnet to jump up and down alarmingly at speed.
By temporarily removing the firewall panel the bonnet settled down so it proves that I need to let the air out somewhere!
I was thinking of doing this at the sides of the bodywork down beside the footwell/exhaust as opposed to in the bonnet.
Is this the correct course or should I be doing the Dax trick of stepping the side panel out 1 inch at the firewall so you get a vent?
What size mesh is most appropriate over the holes?
Any pics of what you've done?
Cheers,
James
ETA: Any engine bay vent pics very welcome!
[Edited on 6/5/14 by James]
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
|
|
|
|
|
rodgling
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 03:46 PM |
|
|
I was having problems with oil temperatures, which I fixed by opening out the rear gap on the engine bay side panels (on my car these panels end
around where the firewall is). It was 15 mm each side, which wasn't working - now increased to 35 mm on the exhaust side. Will do the other side
to match when I get around to it, but just doing the exhaust side seems to have sorted it.
(In my case moving the oil cooler in front of the radiator would also have worked, but this has the advantage of reducing engine bay temperatures
generally so perhaps a better solution, certainly easier than moving the oil cooler.)
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 04:07 PM |
|
|
the 'dax trick' does seem to work for most people and it can be made to look quite good IMHO
but you could put any style of vent you like in the same place really, you could even go for the classic louvered side panels / bonnet
(someone on here posted a guide to making your own out of alloy)
[Edited on 6/5/2014 by mcerd1]
-
|
|
|
renetom
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 04:14 PM |
|
|
Works for our's
 
Bonnet Vents both sides
|
|
|
GaryM
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 04:18 PM |
|
|
Hi James
I used these guys (I think they were nr. Alton, Hants)
http://www.coollouvres.co.uk/index.html
Cheers
Gary
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 06:46 PM |
|
|
I just lifted rear of bonnet 5mm
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
scutter
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 06:49 PM |
|
|
James, I used cool louvres to stamp my bonnet.
 
matching helmet
That and a ducted rad, help no end.
 
rad duct 02
 
Description
Regards Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
|
|
|
Chrisjohns
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 06:59 PM |
|
|
Its one eye on the road and one on the temperature gauge for a small block chevy in a Seven.
I put louvres in the top of the bonnet to move the ambient above the block away but the biggest change was making some holes in the nose and inserting
3 series kidney grills in. Looks nice and cheap.
Oil rad in front of a recored rad.
Valvoline racing oil.
Pacet fan (the best fitting and most efficient on pull from behind)
Perfect mix of anti freeze and water
After that no problem !
|
|
|
JacksAvon
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 07:35 PM |
|
|
I am with Dan (Scutter) on this one.
My Locoblade is flat floored and has a ducted nose.
No over heating issues at all.
I believe Dan had a hand in the design and construction of the ductiing and the flat floor.
 
Description
 
Description
Description
 
Description
 
Description
|
|
|
scutter
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 08:33 PM |
|
|
The best addition that both Matt the previous owner of Jacks car and I did was to fit a Gurney flap to the leading edge lip of the duct exit. This
prevents the air flowing over the nose spilling into the low pressure area in the duct.
I'm planning on side venting mine out of the front suspension area on the V6 as I don't want hot air going into the bonnet bulge.
Regards Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
|
|
|
James
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 08:41 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by scutter
James, I used cool louvres to stamp my bonnet.
Regards Dan.
Have always thought your looked fantastic- but didn't they want £5 per vent though?  Which, when I can't guarantee the lifespan of this
bonnet seems especially much!
I've got some pre-stamped 300x300 ali vent covers but can't think of an attractive way of mounting them!
Did you spray the mesh grill covers you have?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
|
|
|
scutter
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 08:57 PM |
|
|
Costly , True James, mine cost £140, 10 years ago. BUT very effective. Mesh is pre-coloured Halfords special 
Regards Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
|
|
|
DavidM
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 09:13 PM |
|
|
I fitted a vent near to the exhaust manifold to encourage airflow past the main source of heat and out through the side. The vent was home made.
[img]
 
Scuttle 2008
[/img]
[img]
 
Vent 2008
[/img]
David
Proportion is Everything
|
|
|
old_timbo
|
| posted on 6/5/14 at 10:56 PM |
|
|
Why doesn't the hot air exit through the bottom of the engine bay as it is completely open? Is it a high pressure area underneath?
|
|
|
