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Author: Subject: 2001 Fireblade Emissions
Rob55

posted on 8/5/14 at 11:29 AM Reply With Quote
2001 Fireblade Emissions

I recently spectacularly failed IVA emissions with a 929cc Fireblade engine (fuel injected). The results are below, as you can see everything was sky high. Any idea if this is normal for that type of engine or if there could be anything wrong with it? And any way to get them down?

Fast Idle 2500-3000rpm

- CO2 3.63% (Standard: <= 0.3%)

- Hydrocarbons 410ppm (Standard: <= 200ppm)

- Lambda 0.9 (Required standard: 0.97 - 1.03)

Idle 450-1500rpm

- CO2 4.3% (Standard: <= 0.5%)

[Edited on 8/5/14 by Rob55]

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Relph

posted on 8/5/14 at 12:05 PM Reply With Quote
Hi, looks like your running too rich. You could fit a power commander and lean the mixture to get it through the emissions.





If in doubt, flat out.

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adithorp

posted on 8/5/14 at 12:38 PM Reply With Quote
Thats pretty rich and not just a 'cat issue. To pass you'llneed a PowerCommander to lowerthe fueling but it's always going to be a balancing act. Have a word with Andy Bates to see wha this advice is.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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Rob55

posted on 8/5/14 at 01:05 PM Reply With Quote
The inspector said he felt a wee bit sick with the smell of it, and he thought it was running too rich.

I've got a PC here which I haven't plugged in yet, is it likely though that I can get the CO2 down low enough?

I was also wondering could there be a leak in the exhaust joints, would this make the CO2 sky high?

[Edited on 8/5/14 by Rob55]

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PAUL FISHER

posted on 8/5/14 at 01:08 PM Reply With Quote
My 929 MK INDY passed Sva with a Westfield megabus silencer with built in cat, with no powercommander fitted, I only fitted a powercommander 3 months after.
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Rob55

posted on 8/5/14 at 01:12 PM Reply With Quote
I remember you telling me that before Paul. Mine seems to be sky high though. I have a 400 cell "ebay" cat and Akrapovic race can.

Don't suppose you still have the megabusa can and would sell it?

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PAUL FISHER

posted on 8/5/14 at 01:16 PM Reply With Quote
No sorry mate, sold the megabusa can after SVA almost 10 years ago
Link to thread with my results here.

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=30177

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Rob55

posted on 8/5/14 at 01:22 PM Reply With Quote
My god if I had those results I would be home in a boat..!

Mine is clearly running too rich at 0.9 lambda. Time to investigate why this could be. I am running a Tony Law 4-2-1 race manifold, 400 cell cat and akra can. I also have an andy bates airbox.

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mark chandler

posted on 8/5/14 at 01:48 PM Reply With Quote
Have you got a faulty temp sensor, it may think it's still cold!
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Rob55

posted on 8/5/14 at 01:50 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Have you got a faulty temp sensor, it may think it's still cold!


Good point. Engine idle would not drop below 1,500-1,600 revs even when up to operating temperature, would this be an indication it was stuck on "cold start" ?

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adithorp

posted on 8/5/14 at 02:07 PM Reply With Quote
A 400cpi cat is always going to be borderline but... 3.5%CO is higher than you'd expect from an injection motor, even with no cat fitted. In order to pass with a working 'cat it's going to need to be around 0.5-1% CO before the cat. A cat can't compensate enough for 3.5% and even if it did the lambda reading would still be out.. An air leak won't cause high CO in an open loop system (not using an ECU linked lambda sensor).

Most likely causes is faulty temp reading/ faulty cold start I'd have thought.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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mark chandler

posted on 8/5/14 at 03:24 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rob55
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Have you got a faulty temp sensor, it may think it's still cold!


Good point. Engine idle would not drop below 1,500-1,600 revs even when up to operating temperature, would this be an indication it was stuck on "cold start" ?


I would think so, yes although I,m not sure if they have an air bleed valve like a car.

Easy enough to test, when the engine is running unplug it, the engine note should change as high resistance = cold, short the pins to the ECU low resistance = very hot.

If this does not do anything check the wiring, you can test the sensor on the engine with a multimeter.

You will also have an air temperature sensor, not as critical as the water but it will also apply some correction to fuelling.

[Edited on 8/5/14 by mark chandler]

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Rob55

posted on 11/5/14 at 11:59 PM Reply With Quote
Another thing I forgot to mention, is that I removed the thermostat to aid cooling on track as per Andy Bates advice - this may be keeping the engine a bit too cool at idle. So I've ordered a thermostat, housing and water temp sensor off ebay (15 quid) and will see if the car is getting up to full operating temps around 85-90degs.

I've also read that ignition faults can lead to emissions problems, so have ordered a new set of iridium spark plugs as the old ones have probably been in the bike since new (14yrs ago) and could do with a change anyway.

With regards to idle speed which was also on the high side during IVA, I've found an online guide for synchronising the 4 starter valves and then adjusting the idle speed. Looks easy with the aid of a simple set of vacuum gauges, so will give that a go too to smooth things out.

Once the above has been checked and exhaust air leaks have been tested and ruled out, I will get the exhaust gases retested to see if there has been any improvement and will then plug in my power commander and start leaning off the mixture if required.

Thanks for all the help, will update the thread with any progress

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davidimurray

posted on 12/5/14 at 08:17 AM Reply With Quote
Only just spotted this thread. I like this chart as a simple relationship between the different parameters in an ideal world.








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