Keyser
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| posted on 10/8/14 at 09:18 AM |
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Hello gonna need some help :)
Hi,
So time to try out a BEC then, I have just sold my last project a Nissan 350z running over 500HP at the wheels and thought instead of having a car
that is for both road and track I would have one for each so I am now they very happy owner of an MNR Vortx R1 
It was supposed to be a track toy only but it had tax on it and so on the way back in the pickup with the MNR on the trailer I called the insurance
company and spent the whole of yesterday afternoon "test driving" 
Things I want to sort out are (and any suggestions welcome)
1. Play in the steering wheel (it is a quick release wheel)
2. Brakes - long travel and lack feel - they do seem to stop me OK though.
3. Gear shift is very clunky (seems the all are though)
4. Clutch - pedal bite point is to high (I Keep stalling may just be my bad driving though  )
Anyway I shall be reading through looking for tips and advice.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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joneh
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| posted on 10/8/14 at 09:34 AM |
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Hi and welcome!
Can't help with your problems but I'd recommend a booster seat 
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40inches
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| posted on 10/8/14 at 10:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Keyser
Hi,
So time to try out a BEC then, I have just sold my last project a Nissan 350z running over 500HP at the wheels and thought instead of having a car
that is for both road and track I would have one for each so I am now they very happy owner of an MNR Vortx R1
It was supposed to be a track toy only but it had tax on it and so on the way back in the pickup with the MNR on the trailer I called the insurance
company and spent the whole of yesterday afternoon "test driving"
Things I want to sort out are (and any suggestions welcome)
1. Play in the steering wheel (it is a quick release wheel)
2. Brakes - long travel and lack feel - they do seem to stop me OK though.
3. Gear shift is very clunky (seems the all are though)
4. Clutch - pedal bite point is to high (I Keep stalling may just be my bad driving though )
Anyway I shall be reading through looking for tips and advice.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Welcome. Nice car
1.A splined adapters is better than the hexagon or bayonet QR
2.You may have the Sierra master cylinder, if so that is normal. The Fiesta MC is much better for feel. Do a search for "Fiesta master
cylinder" This has been covered many times.
3.Very true. The clunkiness is made worse if there is play in the diff.
4.The cable/MC pivot on the pedal needs to be as close to the pedal pivot as possible, this makes a huge differance
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fesycresy
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| posted on 10/8/14 at 10:11 AM |
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Put your location in and someone can take a look.
I've found the cheap Wilwood QR boss give a 'little' movement, but not loads. Expensive splined are way better.
Long travel usually is air. Do the MNRs use upside down Sierra calipers on the rear? Turn them to vent. Are you using twin m/c's or a Sierra
one?
A TRT prop will take some clunk out.
Stalling? Be more committal, rev it !!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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K13JOB
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| posted on 10/8/14 at 11:17 AM |
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2: Brakes, remember there is no Servo, can take a bit of getting used to having to actually press the pedal to generate the force.
3: yes
4: Stalling is the common reaction when first driving a BEC due to the lack of low rev torque. again wont take long to get used to and gain the feel.
Rev it.
[Edited on 10/8/14 by K13JOB]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 10/8/14 at 12:24 PM |
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With the brakes you really need to give us some info on what is fitted to the car, for example if th car has Sierra based rear discs these is a known
problem with getting the rear callipers bled, this is because the bleed nipple is not in the same position as it is on the saloon or if you have
Cortina front callipers a seized calliper piston is a problem that causes excess pedal travel.
Alloy going callipers can also cause a "long pedal" if not correctly aligned with the disc.
Of course it could be simply the rear brakes have not been adjusted following the correct procedure.
To correct what an earlier poster said a Sierra master cylinder gives firm pedal with short travel but requires excessive pedal pressure to slow the
car.
In contrast the smaller bore Fiesta or Fiat master cylinders give a longer softer pedal but less pedal effort to stop the car.
[Edited on 10/8/14 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 10/8/14 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Keyser
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| posted on 10/8/14 at 05:19 PM |
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Thanks for the info so far - I will get some more info (pictures) so you can tell me what setup I actually have
Thanks again.
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Keyser
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| posted on 8/9/14 at 09:53 PM |
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Well had her out on track a few times now and getting used to her.
Got a few little issues to address the first and most annoying is I get an engine cut on high speed hard right corners - don't seem to get it on
left handers.
Thought it was fuel surge / starvation to start with but doesn't appear to be that.
Thought maybe tilt sensor - can't find mine if I have one - read somewhere they are a latching switch so it wouldn't just pick up again as
it comes out of the bend.
Any suggestions?
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 8/9/14 at 10:11 PM |
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Blyton park is almost all left hand corners, solved that one ?
Clunky gear change, the faster you go the smoother it is.
Sorry on fuel problem, couldn't resist.
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Keyser
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| posted on 8/9/14 at 10:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
Blyton park is almost all left hand corners, solved that one ?
Clunky gear change, the faster you go the smoother it is.
Sorry on fuel problem, couldn't resist.
That's sorted that then
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 8/9/14 at 10:20 PM |
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The last fuelling problem I had turned out to be the pump, I tried allsorts before I found it.
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