My car is on the road but haven't had my tracking done properly, just roughly pointed the wheels forward for the IVA.
Im getting all the little jobs done ready for summer I want to get the tracking sorted properly, the car is a Dax rush and I think they are normally tracked to 0 degress.
The problem is, I've been to two garages now that cant do the tracking because there equipment wont fit under my cycle wing arches, which are very snug on the rush, I don't want to remove these as they are bonded on.
Is there anywhere that uses different equipment that will suit or will I be better off playing with string and laser pens in the garage?

Thanks Dan

I don't know exactly how the dax rush cycle wings work, but surely you must be able to take the cycle wing bracket and arch off as one piece ? Get the tracking done and then re-fit ?

I've just done my alignment using the string method after the local tire shop couldn't get it right after three attempts.

Steering wheel is now perfectly straight and the car handles well, will keep an eye on tyre wear.

Next time I will use fishing line and a digital caliper to improve the accuracy.

I cant remove the cycle wing bracket, its sort of bolts between the top of the upright and top wishbone ball joint, so wouldn't really work with out it,
do any garages use different equipment that doesn't hook over the top of the tyre?

A local motorsport place did my Rush, didn't mention any problems. They advertise that they do work on Caterhams so that's why I went there. But maybe they just used a piece of string :-/
Might be worth looking for that sort of garage though rather than a normal one?

I used a local garage that I found using this site: http://www.alignmycar.co.uk/
They had a Hunter jig and did a full 4 wheel alignment and did not need to hang off the top of the tyre. Maybe worth checking if there's one near you?

Failing that, a decent level floor with 4 axle stands and some string can give very sensible results if you're patient and careful.

Try and find somebody with a pair of these. More modern ones are similar but use lasers.

http://www.interex.co.uk/motorsport/content/images/products/AGO40_v2.jpg

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Originally posted by wylliezx9r
I don't know exactly how the dax rush cycle wings work...

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Buy one of these (or make one of these out of some ally and some threaded rod)

http://www.premiermotorsportdevelopments.co.uk/adjustable-tracking-gauge-620-p.asp

I used two 15mm copper pipe lengths and some bright orange fishing line. Drilled very small holes in the pipes, near the ends, at equal distances to hold the strings parallel down the sides of the car. Clamped the pipes to axle stands in front and behind the car at wheel centre level. Adjusted the pipe positions until the string to wheel centres distances were even, using a steel rule marked in mm. Then measured the outside front and rear of each rim to the string. Adjusted each wheel geometry as necessary.

It might not be absolutely perfect, but I'm fairly sure it is quite accurate. For sure, it is miles better than the original guess settings used to build the car and I'm not going to take it to Quik Fit and have somebody hacking away underneath with an adjustable spanner trying to adjust the rear rose joints. Plus it was very satisfying to do it myself and I can re-adjust myself whenever I need to.

http://www.merityre.co.uk/wheel-alignment

have done mine before - don't recall them having to get under the wheel arch, the tool hung on the rim if I remember correctly.

not sure if there is one close enough to you tho.

thanks for all the suggestions guys,
I've found a couple places about 5miles away that seem to be better equipped, I try them first.
I do plan to go Procomp, but was going to wait till after I've refurbished my suspension next winter,

I used a Trakrite which seems to do the job perfectly.

They cost about £40

I keep meaning to make a gauge. Needs to be this shape.

[__________]

The tops need to be threaded so they adjust up onto the wheel rim half way up the wheel.
Set to the rearmost part of the rim, then transfer to the forward edge of the rim.
It would be easy with an assistant. (wife)


Paul G

String, and care, will give you superb results.

The three cars that I've set up on string, were later placed on a John Bean laser bench. Absolutely no difference in the numerical output.

You can start from the basics with a stripped chassis, cross the suspension points to find the centre-line of the chassis, taking measurements from that. This is the starting point for the repair you'll need to do when you plant the car into the wall at Quarry Corner.

Just take care. Get some good spirit levels for camber, castor and bump steer.

Can anybody share a link to the string method for tracking? and castor, I am struggling to get my head round that too. Camber is easy enough with a string inclinometer.....that I can do!

Have a look on YouTube, there are lots of vids under DIY Wheel Alignment

quote:

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Originally posted by 907
I keep meaning to make a gauge. Needs to be this shape.

[__________]

The tops need to be threaded so they adjust up onto the wheel rim half way up the wheel.
Set to the rearmost part of the rim, then transfer to the forward edge of the rim.
It would be easy with an assistant. (wife)


Paul G

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quote:

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Originally posted by 02GF74

quote:

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Originally posted by 907
I keep meaning to make a gauge. Needs to be this shape.

[__________]

The tops need to be threaded so they adjust up onto the wheel rim half way up the wheel.
Set to the rearmost part of the rim, then transfer to the forward edge of the rim.
It would be easy with an assistant. (wife)


Paul G

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I made a wooden frame like thay, bits of coat hanger wire on the ends that can be bent.

It slips in from the front and contacts the rim front and rear.

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quote:

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Originally posted by 907
I keep meaning to make a gauge. Needs to be this shape.

[__________]

The tops need to be threaded so they adjust up onto the wheel rim half way up the wheel.
Set to the rearmost part of the rim, then transfer to the forward edge of the rim.
It would be easy with an assistant. (wife)


Paul G

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String is the way forwards

Another solution is to use a laser level, park the car 10 ft from a wall pointing directly at it.

Tape a couple of nuts to the laser level at the wheel rim width so you can hold the laser against the wheel not the tyres crossing the centre, now point at the wall and draw a line where the dot is, repeat on the other side.

Now measure the width of the wheels, add the distance of the nut to the laser x 2 and if they are the same width as the lines on the wall the wheels are parallel.

Use a bit of trig and you can then work out the toe in that you require.