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Author: Subject: 2 piece prop
Rosco86

posted on 13/4/15 at 07:05 PM Reply With Quote
2 piece prop

Looking into getting myself a prop shaft ordered soon, I've done a few searches but can't really find much, me engine is a bit high up and not sure where's best for my centre bearing to help the angles out best, does anyone have any pictures of any 2 piece props in a BEC?
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twybrow

posted on 13/4/15 at 07:39 PM Reply With Quote
You need the mating flanges to be as parallel as possible, and the prop itself should not be dead straight. You should be between 1-7 degrees from straight, but no more if you want your prop to last.
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CosKev3

posted on 13/4/15 at 07:50 PM Reply With Quote
Easiest thing to do is get the prop, then work out where to mount centre bearing.

Mac1 and older MK indys mount them parallel across the tunnel, the newer MK indy R's have them mounted vertically on the drivers side of tunnel.

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CosKev3

posted on 13/4/15 at 07:52 PM Reply With Quote
Description
Description


I added the 'bridge' above onto my chassis as I'm converting from car engine to bike engine.

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Rosco86

posted on 13/4/15 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
Yeah I've read about the flanges being parallel but most cars I looked at seem to ignore that rule!

It's not so much the side position of the centre bearing but front to back position and behind or In front of the centre uj

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DIY Si

posted on 13/4/15 at 09:30 PM Reply With Quote
Getting the flanges parallel is the easy bit, but bear in mind they're unlikely to be inline. Otherwise, I'd put the centre bearing support where makes the most practical sense which I would suggest is about half way along, with the front UJ infront of the bearing. That is how my Indy was built, as it gives a nice straight, supported bit in the tunnel and the angled bit free to move about when you need it to when fitting the engine. I'd post a photo of mine, but I don't have one.

One other consideration is the option of a TRT section. I needed a new prop for my car, and went for it as it wasn't much more. The difference in driveline shunt was amazing, and I would suggest it's well worth it as bikes usually have a cushion drive in the rear hub which we don't tend to replicate at all in 7s.





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mark chandler

posted on 13/4/15 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
My engine loosely follows the chassis frame so is quite crooked in the frame to allow decent pedal room, I suggest you first source your exhaust then locate the engine with at least the manifold in place or you will end up chasing down bespoke parts.

Regards Mark

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tyrrell

posted on 14/4/15 at 10:27 AM Reply With Quote
prop

I have a prop for sale it measures 1870mm end-end and has 2 central bearing, any good?
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tyrrell

posted on 14/4/15 at 10:54 AM Reply With Quote
[URL=http://s81.photobucket.com/user/liamt_2006/media/IMG_4066.jpg.html][/URL ]
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Rosco86

posted on 14/4/15 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
Engine and exhaust is already done, I've been speaking to dunning and Fairbank and I think I've sorted it, I just wanted to see a picture of a few installs to see how they ran

Cheers but that props a bit long!

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