Irony
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| posted on 20/4/15 at 08:08 AM |
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Propshaft Clipping Chassis on medium RPM RV8
The output flange on my LT77 is nearly as wide as my transmission tunnel. I reckon there is less than 2mm clearance. The universal joint on my
propshaft has some bits that are slightly wider by about 1mm-1.5mm. At idle things are fine but as the revs increase the engine moves slightly on its
rubber mounts and the propshaft clips the chassis. I can see where the very edge of the UJ has clipped the paint off and scored the metal.
I see a couple of things to try:
1: Stonger, better engine mounts, or a top mount to steady things. Better gearbox mount.
2: Cut out or trim the offending strut and weld another in two inches further back. Not easy as I don't have a welder.
3. Leave it and eventually the metal will wear away and it won't clip any more.
4: Chuck the whole bloody car in the fricking bin and spend some time with my family. Also give up thinking of getting it done this bloody year.
Anyone got any thoughts - or even snazzy pics of upper engine mount pics?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 20/4/15 at 08:31 AM |
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Not cheap but I am assuming you are running standard rover big rubbery mounts and will not require any welding.
http://www.qtservices.co.uk/parts/land-rover-forward-control-101/engine-and-transmission/e1010-v8-engine-mounts_v8-engine-mounts.html
The mount you really need to address is on the gearbox, can you pack this up a tad ?
[Edited on 20/4/15 by mark chandler]
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 20/4/15 at 08:35 AM |
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2mm clearance is very small. Even going to a solid mount that gap will vary under load.
Long term it needs to be opened up. I would aim for at least 6mm, ideally 10mm. But that is my take.....
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Irony
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| posted on 20/4/15 at 10:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Not cheap but I am assuming you are running standard rover big rubbery mounts and will not require any welding.
http://www.qtservices.co.uk/parts/land-rover-forward-control-101/engine-and-transmission/e1010-v8-engine-mounts_v8-engine-mounts.html
The mount you really need to address is on the gearbox, can you pack this up a tad ?
[Edited on 20/4/15 by mark chandler]
Its the downright on the transmission tunnel that 'happens' to fall in exactly the wrong place. So moving the gearbox up or down
won't help, it's lateral movement thats causing trouble.
I am using standard rover rubber mounts. Wow they are costly mounts!
How finely balanced are propshafts? Mine was made by auto prop. The bit catching on the UJ could quite easily be ground off with compromising the
strength at all. As it's on the knuckle of the UJ I could even take some off both sides.
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 20/4/15 at 10:33 AM |
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Don't go modifying a prop. It spinning at a fair rate pretty close to your person and if it lets go its going to do lots of damage to the car
and potentially you as well.
IMHO you need to do it properly to get as much clearance as you. I once had a gearbox mount fail due to oil contamination. It allowed the end of the
box and UJ to move under cornering and it made a right mess of the tunnel and frightened me to death when it started knocking.
If you do it right now it will not need doing later.
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 20/4/15 at 12:07 PM |
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A pic may help, but from what you say moving a couple of uprights will solve the issue? If so, this is the way to go. Chop chop, buzz buzz and its
done. And you know it is right.
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Irony
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| posted on 20/4/15 at 12:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
A pic may help, but from what you say moving a couple of uprights will solve the issue? If so, this is the way to go. Chop chop, buzz buzz and its
done. And you know it is right.
I have just put a post up on my Villages Facebook page for a bloke with a welder! I think its the only way.
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whitestu
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| posted on 20/4/15 at 02:49 PM |
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I had the same issue on my MY and ended up moving the tunnel metalwork to make more space.
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