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Author: Subject: My indyblade battery trouble
polomouth

posted on 7/1/16 at 12:20 PM Reply With Quote
My indyblade battery trouble

Afternoon people, it's that's time of year again when I want to get my car up to scratch for the coming spring. I'm ok with the spanners but I'm no mechanic either and as for electrics,there really not my strong point at all. My question for you is whilst my indyblade is running being driven normally without any lights or anything else switched on it runs fine but as soon as I need to switch my lights on the voltage drops and the low voltage light flashes consistently at me on the digi dash and from memory it drops to 11. Something volts. I currently have a Varta fireblade specific model battery fitted and it's always kept connected up to the optimate charger. I have a digidash and savage switches to power up and that's it. My thinking is maybe I just need to fit a bigger battery maybe but I don't want to go and spend money on a new battery if that's not the cause of the problem. Thanks in advance for any advise given.

Regard Gaz

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SJ

posted on 7/1/16 at 12:48 PM Reply With Quote
You woould expect voltage to drop when the lights go on. 11v would be low for a CEC though. What happens when you rev up, does the voltage rise and light go off?
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gremlin1234

posted on 7/1/16 at 12:48 PM Reply With Quote
sounds like a fault in the charging (alternator) circuit.
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polomouth

posted on 7/1/16 at 01:00 PM Reply With Quote
Engine speed doesn't make any difference to volt readout its always around 11 volts ish. When I turn my lights on all of the savage switches are illuminated on the dash as well. Maybe the size of battery isn't man enough to cope with the draw of power?
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nick205

posted on 7/1/16 at 01:18 PM Reply With Quote
I would have thought the battery is up to the job. Sounds like a wiring fault to me where something is drawing more power than it should. You might be able to isolate what is doing it by disconnecting things to see if you can avoid the problem. It may be fiddly, but without doing it you could never isolate the issue.






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ReMan

posted on 7/1/16 at 01:33 PM Reply With Quote
How old is the battery
4 yeatrs is tops imho regardless of care





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adithorp

posted on 7/1/16 at 01:43 PM Reply With Quote
The battery size won't be the issue as once running all electrical power should be coming from the charging system and power going back into the battery not out of it.

What is the voltage reading when running with lights etc off? Should be between 13.5-14.5v. If not then the charging circuit isn't working properly. The rectifier is a known weak piont on some 'blades.





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BenB

posted on 7/1/16 at 02:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
The battery size won't be the issue as once running all electrical power should be coming from the charging system and power going back into the battery not out of it.

What is the voltage reading when running with lights etc off? Should be between 13.5-14.5v. If not then the charging circuit isn't working properly. The rectifier is a known weak piont on some 'blades.


Absolutely! The battery is only used to start the engine. Once the engine is running power comes from the alternator. A dead battery will usually show a good 13.5v across it with the engine running, it will just plummet like a stone as soon as you switch it off.
Optimate's are not a cure all for batteries. Fundamentally they only last a certain amount of time regardless of how much you pamper them.
Personally I'd ditch the lead acid and get a nice lithium battery- I recently did this on my ST1100 BEC and saved just over 3kg which isn't too shabby.

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CosKev3

posted on 7/1/16 at 05:36 PM Reply With Quote
My R1 stopped charging last year,first I knew of it was a misfire then it just cut out.no battery light is a pain!
Fitted a nice little digital volt gauge now so it won't go unseen again
Anyway,it was the multiplug connection between the stator and the loom on mine,had corroded and partially melted the wiring leaving the loom plug.
Not sure if blades suffer with this, but is common on R1's.
Just follow the three wires up from your stator and check the connection to loom.

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CosKev3

posted on 7/1/16 at 05:39 PM Reply With Quote
This might be your issue;
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/7/viewthread.php?tid=160664

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IainL

posted on 7/1/16 at 08:47 PM Reply With Quote
Also maybe worth looking at the regulator as the standard ones are known to fail on the early Fireblades as they normal overheat due to lack of air flow over them to keep the cool

Worth swapping to one with a built in heat sink readily available on eBay

Cheers
Iain

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polomouth

posted on 8/1/16 at 04:49 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the help everybody really appreciate it. The daily drive is going off to honda tomorrow for a service then I will be in the garage trying out your suggestions to see if a can sort the problem out. Just a quick one on battery age I reckon it's at least 5years old now. Maybe that could be the issue? But I thought the optimate tests the battery for you to see if it's knackered or not?
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ReMan

posted on 8/1/16 at 07:33 PM Reply With Quote
As others have said check the alternator to regulator connections and any add in connectors if the looms been extended
The reg/rec itself and its pins for any burning.
Battered i say 4 years though you would expect it to be struggling to start the car if the cells were going down enough to dark the voltage down once running, so if its still starting strong and its voltage his good it may have a bit more life in it





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adithorp

posted on 9/1/16 at 09:14 AM Reply With Quote
You need to check whather it's charging correctly. Is the voltage 13.5-14.5v when running? If not then the charging system isn't working correctly. That means either the stator or the regulator or the wiring between is the issue .

If it starts/re-starts OK, then I'll pretty much garrentee it's not a battery issue.





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40inches

posted on 9/1/16 at 10:23 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
You need to check whather it's charging correctly. Is the voltage 13.5-14.5v when running? If not then the charging system isn't working correctly. That means either the stator or the regulator or the wiring between is the issue .

If it starts/re-starts OK, then I'll pretty much garrentee it's not a battery issue.


Wot he said!

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Matt21

posted on 30/1/16 at 01:29 AM Reply With Quote
I had this problem with mine last year, found the fault to be the stator was burnt out and the reg was fried too.

there is a guide somewhere I found that gives good advice on fault finding with the charging loop.

Also as a quick easy potential fix... check the three connections from the stator, these get very hot and deteriorate.

When I bought a new regulater, I mounted it out the way of anything hot (they need to dissipate the heat they generate to dump the excess charge the stator gives off), mine ended up in the bottom of the engine bay on the passengerside with a 12v pc style fan cooling it, attached to a block of aluminium with heat sink paste and also a cooling duct from the front of the side panel. It should be lovely and cool now!

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Matt21

posted on 30/1/16 at 01:50 AM Reply With Quote
Heres a few things to check after a quick google...

Stator coil resistances. Use a multimeter to check the resistance between each of the three cables and earth (engine casing will be great). All three should have NO continuity.

Start the engine and have the 3 wires unplugged. Use your multimeter to measure the voltage (I'm sure its AC you need) Should be around 50Vac (at idle) between 2 wires, check them all with each other and they should all be the same.
At 5k rpm you should get about 65V ac.

With the reg/rec, test the resistance between the green wire and negetive battery terminal, you should get low resistance.
Then check voltage (dc) from the red wire on the reg/rec to the negetive battery terminal. That should be identical to the voltage across both battery terminals. (If it isn't then theres a fault in the wiring loom somewhere).

From what I remember when testing mine, I was getting around 13-14v on the battery with the engine sat at 5k rpm, if it is higher then the reg/rec is broke

So from what you say it sounds like the stator or a problem with the wiring

Heres a link to the thread I made when doing mine
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/59/viewthread.php?tid=191072

Hopefully that makes sense! I'm pretty tired trying to get into nightshift so it probably wont!

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Toprivetguns

posted on 30/1/16 at 07:19 AM Reply With Quote
Morning

My battery was suffering the same issue. The rectifier was becoming extremely hot and the three stator wires had almost melted. I used my Kawasaki manual and went through the motions of checking voltages, resistance etc. In the end I replaced the rectifier with a newer superseded part and changed the stator wiring plus connectors. If you have the time you will find plenty of forums highlighting this issues about battery maintenance, charging and dodgy rectifiers.

Id recommend previous posts and check all your wiring, voltages etc then try to pinpoint the exact issue. Rectifiers and stators can be quite pricey so take your time. Good luck





Only drive as fast as your angel can fly... !

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Mavrik

posted on 18/11/17 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by polomouth
Afternoon people, it's that's time of year again when I want to get my car up to scratch for the coming spring. I'm ok with the spanners but I'm no mechanic either and as for electrics,there really not my strong point at all. My question for you is whilst my indyblade is running being driven normally without any lights or anything else switched on it runs fine but as soon as I need to switch my lights on the voltage drops and the low voltage light flashes consistently at me on the digi dash and from memory it drops to 11. Something volts. I currently have a Varta fireblade specific model battery fitted and it's always kept connected up to the optimate charger. I have a digidash and savage switches to power up and that's it. My thinking is maybe I just need to fit a bigger battery maybe but I don't want to go and spend money on a new battery if that's not the cause of the problem. Thanks in advance for any advise given.

Regard Gaz


I went through 3 genuine Honda Reg/rec's... They are pony pieces of s h i t e!!

Have now fitted a SHINDENGEN FH012AA MOSFET... Much beefier & mine is mounted on a heatsink pad & bolted directly to the ally floor for better heat dissipation.

I'm also running a Shido LiFePO4 battery & have had zero issues since...





My Other Rides:

HRC Limited Edition RR-7 Fireblade

350zed HR 313 Convertible

Mercedes-Benz SLK Kompressor

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