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Author: Subject: Setting up suspension/geometry on my indy
flanders

posted on 7/4/16 at 05:50 PM Reply With Quote
Setting up suspension/geometry on my indy

Hi all.
I got my first MK on Saturday. After a few good test drives I've found the car a little unpredictable on bumpy back roads.
I don't think the geometry or shocks have been set up correctly. Can anyone offer me some advice on setiimg for the geo and where the shocks should be set

My set up is
2002, 900cc Bec
Protech shocks
195 45 15

I called my local alignment center and the said I'd need to supply the camber/toe etc settings and they will adjust to that

Thanks

[Edited on 7/4/16 by flanders]

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YQUSTA

posted on 7/4/16 at 06:44 PM Reply With Quote
Here are my settings from when i had an indy

My front is 1.75 neg camber and 1.92 mm toe in at the rims, castor 4.125 LH and 3.75 RH (non adjustable wishbones for castor)

The rear is 0.8 neg camber, 1.45 mm toe in at rims with shims.

As near as damn it 50/50 weight and 493.5Kg full of all fluids.

This was done profesionally and to my needs which may be different to yours but it is a setup for road/track use with consideration taken for 2 up.





"If in doubt flat out"

Colin McRae

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CosKev3

posted on 7/4/16 at 08:00 PM Reply With Quote
Presuming you've tried softening the shocks?

Also what tyre pressures are you running?

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SJ

posted on 7/4/16 at 08:05 PM Reply With Quote
My advice would be check for bump steer first. For me this had the biggest impact on my car on bumpy roads.

Next modify the front wishbones to get more caster.

Set front toe in at 0.5 degrees and check rear is 0.5 as well.

Set corner weights.

I'd also get rid of the big wheels and get some 13" wheels.

Stu

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daniel mason

posted on 7/4/16 at 08:32 PM Reply With Quote
My advice would be to soften the damping as well. Try 4 clicks from fully soft
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flanders

posted on 7/4/16 at 08:50 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks guys. It is suffering from bump steer. Running 15psi all round.

Ok so set the suspension softer all round? It's pretty hard at the moment

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CosKev3

posted on 7/4/16 at 08:54 PM Reply With Quote
Yeah try softening the dampers is a pretty easy start point.
What height are you running the suspension at,chassis to floor?

Should be running slightly higher on the rear end.

Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.

If you look from the front are the track rods running level with the wishbones,or on a angle?

[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]

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flanders

posted on 7/4/16 at 09:53 PM Reply With Quote
I'll check all of the tomorrow and report back bud, cheers
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Bluemoon

posted on 8/4/16 at 06:19 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3

Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.

[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]


Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.

Links might help:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=18211

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=42105

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494


Dan



[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]

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CosKev3

posted on 8/4/16 at 06:35 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3

Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.

[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]


Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.

Linky might help:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494

Dan

[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]

[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]


Spacing is ok if the rack is too low,but mine and other seven type cars I've looked at need the rack lowering.

[Edited on 8/4/16 by CosKev3]

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Bluemoon

posted on 8/4/16 at 06:46 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3

Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.

[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]


Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.

Linky might help:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494

Dan

[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]

[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]


Spacing is ok if the rack is too low,but mine and other seven type cars I've looked at need the rack lowering.

[Edited on 8/4/16 by CosKev3]


Yes, but the MK Indy was supposedly built with this in mind, hence the modified rack to match the suspension geometry. My sample of 1 Indy is a bit small could believe others may be different, not so sure about the new indy type R chassis or what ever it's called. Best thing is to measure up what you have first.

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nick205

posted on 8/4/16 at 07:38 AM Reply With Quote
I don't recall the specific settings from my MK Indy, but I can recall setting up some rear toe in, which helped a lot with cornering. I did this with shim washers between the rear hub carriers and rear uprights. I also experimented with tyre pressure on similar size wheels and tyres. I found around 17 psi front and rear gave the best handling and bump absorbtion characteristics.

They're good cars, but do benefit from a good setup being applied. I'd suggest contacting MK themselves - I suspect they'll give you recommended setup figures to apply.






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flanders

posted on 8/4/16 at 08:51 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3

Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.

[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]


Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.

Links might help:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=18211

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=42105

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494


Dan



[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]


some good info on those links mate, thanks for the info so far all. cheers!

i think im going to go in with this...

Shocks
4 clicks up from fully soft all round, 15 psi all round

Front
1-1.5 degree neg camber
1 degree toe out
max castor

Rear (if i have any adjustment)
0.5 - 1 degree neg camber
1 degree toe out

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CosKev3

posted on 8/4/16 at 09:02 AM Reply With Quote
Pretty sure it's toe in you want?

Ref the rear if it's not adjustable for toe it's quite a job to shim/space the uprights to get it adjusted if your paying someone to do it.
Don't expect to get it done included in the 4 wheel alignment price!!

Also there is a good chance to adjust your camber you will need the suspension joints splitting to adjust it,again most places won't include this in the 4 wheel alignment price.

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flanders

posted on 8/4/16 at 09:12 AM Reply With Quote
Toe IN! my bad

thanks bud.

yeah i know some places don't like splitting ball joints etc

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CosKev3

posted on 8/4/16 at 09:21 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3

Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.

[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]


Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.

Linky might help:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494

Dan

[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]

[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]


Spacing is ok if the rack is too low,but mine and other seven type cars I've looked at need the rack lowering.

[Edited on 8/4/16 by CosKev3]


Yes, but the MK Indy was supposedly built with this in mind, hence the modified rack to match the suspension geometry. My sample of 1 Indy is a bit small could believe others may be different, not so sure about the new indy type R chassis or what ever it's called. Best thing is to measure up what you have first.


My Mac1 was supposedly built for sierra geometry etc,but the rack was still mounted too high.

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flanders

posted on 8/4/16 at 09:57 AM Reply With Quote
Should the rack/ends all be level then? Ie No angle at rest?
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flanders

posted on 8/4/16 at 09:57 AM Reply With Quote
Should the rack/ends all be level then? Ie No angle at rest?
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nick205

posted on 8/4/16 at 10:08 AM Reply With Quote
My understanding is that the track rods should be level at rest and the inner ball joint should be in line with the inner pivot point of the lower front wishbones. On my MK Indy MK supplied a narrowed Sierra steering rack to achieve this (exchanged with my normal Sierra rack). In this way you minimise bump steer when travelling along. From memory on the Indy chassis there is some small adjustment provided (slotted bolt holes) for the rack to get it straight, but no vertical or horizontal adjustment to speak of. In my view it's worth some fiddling to get the best setup you can before taking it to be measured.

For rear toe in there is no built in adjustment on the Indy (unless you have fancy wishbones) hence the adjustment I made with shim washers. As I recall the shim washers were bought online and quite cheap. It was however quite a bit of work to calculate and make the required fitting. A noticeable benefit in handling though and apart from my time very cheap to do.

ETA...some shim washer sources...

https://www.springmasters.com/sp/shims-support-washers.html

http://www.pts-uk.com/Products/Washers_DIN_988_Shim_Washers

[Edited on 8/4/16 by nick205]






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CosKev3

posted on 8/4/16 at 01:54 PM Reply With Quote
What nick says is my understanding of it.

Although even with the shortened rack that MK/Mac1 supply the inner pivot is not bang on in line with the lower wishbone mount points.

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SJ

posted on 8/4/16 at 03:37 PM Reply With Quote
I wasn't so scientific with my bump steer adjustments.

I disconnected the shock and drew a vertical line on the garage wall. With a last pointer on the disc I spaced the rack mounting with washers until the laser tracked the vertical line as closely as I could get it.

This made a massive difference and the car went from feeling like it wanted to tip me into a ditch every time I hit a manhole to tracking straight and feeling very stable however bumpy things got.

Stu

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Bluemoon

posted on 8/4/16 at 05:46 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SJ
I wasn't so scientific with my bump steer adjustments.

I disconnected the shock and drew a vertical line on the garage wall. With a last pointer on the disc I spaced the rack mounting with washers until the laser tracked the vertical line as closely as I could get it.

This made a massive difference and the car went from feeling like it wanted to tip me into a ditch every time I hit a manhole to tracking straight and feeling very stable however bumpy things got.

Stu


Would not call that none scientifc.. That's what you end up doing in the end..

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Weelee

posted on 8/4/16 at 06:04 PM Reply With Quote
I made a jig for my rear lower wishbones then cut the inner bushers off and put in Kevlar rose joint so could set the toe. Got pics if anyone what's to see them if use are thinking doing the same.
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