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Author: Subject: Touching up scrapes on chassis
jps

posted on 3/9/20 at 11:32 AM Reply With Quote
Touching up scrapes on chassis

As part of my long build process, my chassis (painstakingly painted with POR15 years ago) has picked up a few scuffs and knocks.

What do people generally do to deal with *small* bits of damage to chassis paintwork? E.g. areas which have been chipped back to bare metal but are the size of, say, a postage stamp, or even smaller. Especially areas which are going to have a panel bonded against them.

Once the bodywork is on large scale resprays for small damage won't be realistic anyway, so i'm thinking to probably just use simple black gloss paint from Screwfix.etc?

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Bluemoon

posted on 3/9/20 at 11:44 AM Reply With Quote
I have used hammeright smooth, but it's not a great choice... You do need to be carefull for chips and scuffs probably fine, but postage stamp size is should really be treated properly feather it in, primer, and top coat..

I thought POR15 was almost indestructable?

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James

posted on 3/9/20 at 11:56 AM Reply With Quote
My whole chassis was wire brushed with The Tool then done in Screwfix red oxide primer followed by Homebase black exterior gloss... 14 years later it's all still there!





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Bluemoon

posted on 3/9/20 at 12:03 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by James
My whole chassis was wire brushed with The Tool then done in Screwfix red oxide primer followed by Homebase black exterior gloss... 14 years later it's all still there!


How long as it been on the road and how many miles?? (I am looking for chassis black at the moment tempted to go oil based exterior gloss..)

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jps

posted on 3/9/20 at 12:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
I thought POR15 was almost indestructable?

In a lot of places it's adhered really well, but it's things like fitting the transmission tunnel sides - where I ended up scraping the edge of a 1mm alu sheet across chassis rails to get it in place - where it's just been scratched off.

I had a look at feathering in (new term to me), and i'm entirely talking about areas which won't ordinarily be visible, but do need some kind of proteciton.

[Edited on 3/9/20 by jps]

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steve m

posted on 3/9/20 at 12:52 PM Reply With Quote
Im glad that James took my advice about 20 years ago !!

Ive said this many many times on this site, that any premium household gloss paint, as long as you use a decent primer first, the gloss will out live the car

I got this info from a car restorer, about 45 years ago, when i helped rebuild an austin 7,

The austin 7 is still on the road 45 years later, and never had any paint work done since





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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steve m

posted on 3/9/20 at 12:59 PM Reply With Quote
Two posts, that ive done over the years, on this subject,

A good rust preventive primer/base coat, and then a good make of normal house hold gloss paint, as told to me
by a car restorer neighbour about 45 years ago,
He passed away years ago, but his Austin 7 that I helped rebuild with him about 46 years ago !! is still on the road,
and still looks like the day he finished it



ive said it many many times, and have prove the following works, on an Austin 7 I helped rebuild in about 1974

A good rust preventative primer, and a good household black gloss, dulux etc

The Austin 7 is still on the road, and used and still looks as good now as it did in 1974



And by a good gloss, i do mean Dulux or better not some b&q trade crap

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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Bluemoon

posted on 3/9/20 at 01:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by steve m
Two posts, that ive done over the years, on this subject,

A good rust preventive primer/base coat, and then a good make of normal house hold gloss paint, as told to me
by a car restorer neighbour about 45 years ago,
He passed away years ago, but his Austin 7 that I helped rebuild with him about 46 years ago !! is still on the road,
and still looks like the day he finished it



ive said it many many times, and have prove the following works, on an Austin 7 I helped rebuild in about 1974

A good rust preventative primer, and a good household black gloss, dulux etc

The Austin 7 is still on the road, and used and still looks as good now as it did in 1974



And by a good gloss, I do mean Dulux or better not some b&q trade crap

steve


I guess that must be for oil based gloss paints harder to get today (not quite impossible mind, dulux gloss is avalible as water based or solvent (trade). I have done some parts on the kit they are still good, but the gloss is "soft" so good and bad I think.

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nick205

posted on 3/9/20 at 01:17 PM Reply With Quote
I'd feather the edges of the surrounding paint with fine sand paper.
Touch in some red oxide primer with a brush.
Touch in some chassis black (Halfords do it cheap enough in 750ml tins) with a brush.
Aim to get as smooth an overall finish as you can between the surroungding paint and the new paint.

Where you're going to fit body panels I ran beads of black PU sealant/adhesive along the chassis members then brought the panels into place. It helps bond the panels to the chassis and provides some seal against moisture getting at the chassis metal as well. When fitting GRP panels and not wanting rivets all over I used G claps, rope and ratchet straps to hold things in place while the PU adhesive cured.

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JC

posted on 4/9/20 at 05:35 AM Reply With Quote
Steve,

What would you recommend as a good rust preventative primer/base?

I ask as I have just bought a VW T4. Pretty solid underneath but one small sill area that needs de-rusting and painting!

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steve m

posted on 4/9/20 at 06:51 AM Reply With Quote
I have used Red oxide primer before and from memory, but it was 45 ish years ago, that was also used on the Austin 7

But on my Covin Porsche chassis, i used Finnigan's rust primer, but ive just done a search for that, i cant find it

Any good make of a rust preventive primer would suffice just not any B&q or similar places brand stuff, its sh1te or any think starting with Hammerite,
i dont know why any one perseveres with the stuff, as it falls of metal, all on its own, or has done when ive used it!

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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jps

posted on 4/9/20 at 08:05 AM Reply With Quote
Well, i've bought a little tin of red oxide, and will give the bare metal sections a dap of that, then overcoat with the 'Fortress' black metal paint which I used on my washing line pole 7+ years ago, and which has held up outside in all weathers just fine! To be fair, I painted my Sierra hubs with it about the same time, and they look fine too.
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nick205

posted on 4/9/20 at 08:40 AM Reply With Quote
Red oxide primer has done me very well over the years. I've brushed it on and sprayed it on and provided the bare metal is well prepped first (abraded and properly clean) it works very well. For smaller parts (including wishbones) I've often warmed the bare metal part first over an electric heater, sprayed it on and then left the primer to dry/cure/harden over the heater for a good amount of time. If you rush the process it has scope for failure and mess.

Following that apply the colour in several thin coats. Again allowing time for the coloured paint to dry/cure/harden properly. Then apply a clear lacquer over the top in several thin coats. The lacquer adds a little more protection and helps keep the part looking better for longer.

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