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Author: Subject: FURY "EGOBOOST 2.0" - CBR1000RR TO ECOBOOST
MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:02 PM Reply With Quote
FURY "EGOBOOST 2.0" - CBR1000RR TO ECOBOOST

How's about a good old engine replacement build thread?



I bought this Fury as an ex-750MC race car. It was fitted with a decent amount of toys and gadgets but with an older 2005 CBR1000RR engine with 165bhp. That's decent for an engine of its age but I compete in Sprinting and my class has the 375bhp SBD Westfield. I needed more!

I had an electric issue and the ECU no longer worked so rather than the easy option of changing the ECU, I decided to change the entire engine instead.

Why "Egoboost 2.0"? I used to own Ash Sutton's old Formula Ford Ecoboost, with a friend, which we dubbed "Egoboost". It was a brilliant car and I missed the buzz I got from it, this was my opportunity to try and recreate some of that.



Will it fit in the Fury chassis? Well that's a very good question, we knew the engine was around the same size as the Duratec and they fit in the chassis of a Stylus. The Fury is a very similar chassis so it must fit, right?

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:05 PM Reply With Quote
I created some funds by selling some of the old bits. Engine came out and then I started to clear some space in the engine bay.

I bought a 2015 1.6 Ecoboost engine with ~10k miles on it and then went about getting all the extra bits.

* SCS Delta GDI4 Ecu with a 300bhp map
* SCS Delta modified wiring loom
* Titan dry sump
* Titan bellhousing for a Type 9 gearbox
* Turbo Technics S242 hybrid turbo good for 315bhp
* SBD thermostat housing
* SBD vacuum pump blanking plate
* SBD rear heater solenoid blank

I'm going to have trouble with:
* Pedal box as the turbo is extremely close to all the MCs
* Finding a suitable gearbox for the torque.

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:06 PM Reply With Quote
Collected the engine and set about lowering the engine into place as it was to see what needed to be immediately removed. I'd already removed the ARB and a front chassis brace which will need to be refabricated







You can see that it looked tight but the aircon compressor was still attached, so that came right off! Then then massive alternator was in the way so that came off as well. I had my eye on a lighter one anyway but hopefully it doesn't need relocating.

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:06 PM Reply With Quote
Well it fits!

Left hand side


Front


Right hand side


Rear

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:08 PM Reply With Quote
The other concern was how high it might sit because it's quite a tall engine.



This is with the standard sump but I'm going to be fitting the Titan dry sump so this won't be a problem.



And then height looks ok to me. The Fury has different bonnets available and mine is the Le Mans bonnet with a bulge for bike engines. If it needs modifying then that's fine.

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:09 PM Reply With Quote
For reference, the turbo I'm using was previously fitted to a Mygale Formula Ford with a similar spec engine. This was the dyno chart. I'm expecting similar as I would like the nice flat torque curve.


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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:11 PM Reply With Quote
Further progress today:

Firstly some essential modifications that needed doing but Iíve made them look prettier.

The vacuum pump on the rear of the engine isnít needed so it gets removed and then blanked off. SBD make this component although Gemzoe Motorsport also make one.
After that the rear solenoid gets removed and blanked off. Thatís also an SBD product.



Next was to replace the Ecoboost thermostat housing with a Sigma housing. Not sure why, it probably simplifies the circuit. Itís what is recommended so Iím doing it!





Hmm, that doesnít look right! Iím not sure whatís going on there, I think it might be due to the engine sitting around for a while. Please comment if you know.



[footnote]Edited by MagicalTrevor on Monday 31st August 18:25[/footnote]

[footnote]Edited by MagicalTrevor on Monday 31st August 18:26[/footnote]

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:12 PM Reply With Quote
Next was to check out where the engine mounts go.

I bought these on eBay




Useful reference for anybody looking to do similar

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:13 PM Reply With Quote
The turbo is really tight against the pedal box and thatís a major headache as the exhaust needs to make an incredibly tight turn.

So Iím going to get extension piece fabricated that lowers it and twists it slightly so the exhaust outlet points more towards the outside of the bodywork





Thereís now loads of space as Iíve removed the brake MCs to get better access.


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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:13 PM Reply With Quote
Borrowed an engine stand so I could more easily work on the dry sump fitting



Obvious reason for the engine stand is turning the engine upside down



Not photos mid way through as thereís nothing particularly exciting.



One thing to note is that the Titan pump comes with a mount but it wonít work with the usual mounts that you buy for this type of car as it blocks the mounting holes.

Gemzoe Motorsport sells a suitable mount to replace the Titan mount and also allows you to use an engine mount.



Basically, you need this if youíre using this mount.

It fits like this







[footnote]Edited by MagicalTrevor on Saturday 5th September 18:05[/footnote]

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:16 PM Reply With Quote
Progress has been a bit slow since the last update. Still trying to fit the dry sump but work and other commitments have got in the way.

I made the mistake of mounting the engine on the stand without the flywheel fitted which meant that I couldnít fit the locking tool. That meant that I had to remove the engine from the stand and fit it. Then, after re-mounting it I found that one small part of the flywheel got caught on the mount, so off it came again!
That took a great deal of my garage time yesterday.

Once it was all properly done I had to lock the crankshaft, camshafts and flywheel so I could replace the main crankshaft bolt with a modified one that would allow fitting of the Titan pulley.

It was fairly straight forward, especially as Iíve never done anything like this before, however I found that the crankshaft vibration damper alignment tool, that comes with the Sealey engine locking kit|https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sealey-petrol-engine-setting-locking-kit-ford-volvo-1-6-ecoboost-belt-drive-seavse6560/, isnít quite the correct length. Because of this I found that it was tricky to check the alignment. It required jamming it in the hole rather than using the engine mounting position.

Difficult to explain but I got there in the end.

The instructions are here|https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/application/views//web/viewer.html?file=https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/upload/pdf/EcoBoost_Dry_Sump_System_ Installation_Instructions.pdf if youíre interested.

Mounted the pump next and it all looks like itís aligned ready for adding the belt and the pipes.

Sorry, no pictures!

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:16 PM Reply With Quote
Dry sump is now installed!







[imghttps://www.s9motorsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/D62BC402-41DE-446E-985D-55B4438D713A-scaled.jpeg[/img]

The pump fits neatly down the side. The oil cooler gets removed and a shorter oil filter is fitted to help with packaging however my car isn't narrow like a Westfield so I remain unconvinced by this and will fit a larger filter if I can later. I have an older Laminova oil cooler to replace the function of the OEM oil cooler.



Both sides of the engine are now looking a bit tidier and purposeful without all the unnecessary hoses and the wiring loom.

Next step is to fit the placeholder Type 9 gearbox (as most sequential boxes are built based on the T9 fitment) and then start fabricating engine mounts.



I'm undecided on the exhaust/turbo side but this is where the mount for the inlet side will go.





Finally, just some photos of the rear of the engine for reference

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:17 PM Reply With Quote
A bit more progress this afternoon.

Loose fitted the gearbox just to make sure it would go in the tunnel and start to work out where to weld in a plate for mounting.

It's not level in this photo, but when it is, it lines up perfectly with the end of the pedal footwell.


Loads of room


Not a great photo but it's here for some sort of reference


I've mentioned the turbo placement. If I can move it forwards then it sorts all my problems out so I've started speaking to a fabricator who can make a log manifold that brings it forward.






Hopefully it won't be too expensive though.

[footnote]Edited by MagicalTrevor on Friday 18th September 20:02[/footnote]

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:18 PM Reply With Quote
I've found somebody to make me the turbo manifold that I need and that'll help with packaging of the turbo and the pedals. Shouldn't be too expensive to do.

I've decided on the gearbox, it's an Elite IL200 5S Extended|http://eliteracingtransmissions.com/categories/inline-gearboxes/il200-5s-extended/
Key points are that the torque capacity increased from 270Nm (200 lbft) to 340Nm (250lbft) from the standard IL200 which is common in my competitive events.
My engine, with the turbo I've got, is capable of 312bhp and 265lbft and it's easy to restrict the boost so I can maintain a 250lbft limit and protect the gearbox. 300bhp+ here we come... this is going to be mental!

I celebrated by adding some engine vajazzle...



I'm a tart, I admit it! :hehe: It dresses up the engine bay and makes it 'appear' like a built engine despite my *current* policy of not modifying the internals.

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 06:18 PM Reply With Quote
Loads of progress today.

Got the engine back in today and in position ready for making engine mounts. The sump barely peeks out below the chassis so I donít have to worry about the sump getting damaged.

Go say itís tight is an understatement. Had to cut parts of the chassis around the wishbone mounts but itís trivial to weld up new braces.

When in its proper position, the oil pump from the dry sump is much closer than in this photo.


And a photo showing how close it is


Hereís a photo with the engine in place . I didnít get a photo of the underside but Iíll get one next time.


Engine mount next. Sat on Vibra Technics mounts. Had to be positioned to avoid oil pipes.


Thereís plenty of strength in that with thick walled box section and thicker tube for the vertical section.
Again, but of a rush so didnít get photos of the finished article but Iím very pleased with the result.

Hot side of the engine is also looking positive. This is how it looks with nothing fitted.


Turbo fitted


Very relieved to say that it looks like there might be room to fit a 90deg bend for the exhaust outlet without having to get a custom manifold which is really good news as it means more money for the gearbox!



This diagonal chassis brace is going to need to be modified so the exhaust can pass through


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big_wasa

posted on 27/9/20 at 07:16 PM Reply With Quote
Cool project. I look forward to your updates.

Your pics may get pulled due to them being a little large.

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 27/9/20 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Cool project. I look forward to your updates.

Your pics may get pulled due to them being a little large.


Thanks for the heads up, other forums resize them appropriately so Iím not sure how to do that here

I've resized the images. If there is one that I've missed then please let me know, but it looks ok to me now

[Edited on 28/9/20 by MagicalTrevor]

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Schrodinger

posted on 28/9/20 at 08:10 AM Reply With Quote
It looks like a great project, however one thing I would say is, DO NOT turn your engine upside down to remove the sump as all of the crap left in the sump will drain into the top of the engine and into the oilways. Take the sump off when it's up the correct way then spin it round.





Keith

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 28/9/20 at 08:42 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
It looks like a great project, however one thing I would say is, DO NOT turn your engine upside down to remove the sump as all of the crap left in the sump will drain into the top of the engine and into the oilways. Take the sump off when it's up the correct way then spin it round.


Oh... too late! I just followed the SBD/Titan instructions.

I was planning on flushing the engine through though. Do you have any suggestions on making sure crap hasn't got somewhere it shouldn't?

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 29/9/20 at 03:07 PM Reply With Quote
Here's a photo of the first engine mount. It's just bare metal at the moment but we're planning on black galvanising it or just paint or powdercoat it. It'll also have the end plugged up and a gusset made on the top.

Note how it avoids the pipes of the dry sump pump.




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toolate

posted on 5/10/20 at 03:10 PM Reply With Quote
Great build. Id love to do an ecoboost conversion!
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big_wasa

posted on 5/10/20 at 04:11 PM Reply With Quote
Yep I would love a go with one as well. I keep seeing great numbers from even a 1.6.
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MagicalTrevor

posted on 5/10/20 at 04:35 PM Reply With Quote
400bhp seems possible if youíve got cash to throw at it, they claim more if youíre truly experimental.

SBD have 375bhp from their Westfield.

Iím after a lowly 300-315bhp from mine

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Simon

posted on 5/10/20 at 05:42 PM Reply With Quote
Hmmm, good thread

Just one thing, do you have dimensions available - particularly crank centreline to top of engine, overall height/length etc ?

Cheers

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MagicalTrevor

posted on 5/10/20 at 05:45 PM Reply With Quote
Afraid not, Iíll measure when Iím down next.
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