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Author: Subject: coil wire
sammundo

posted on 14/12/20 at 06:56 PM Reply With Quote
coil wire

Hi folks. Just a quick one. Im starting the wiring for my 1300 xflow and was wondering what amp wire i should use for the live to the coil and what fuse, if any, it should have.
Cheers

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Russell

posted on 15/12/20 at 07:48 AM Reply With Quote
Max static current will be with the engine stopped, ignition on and points closed - around 4 to 6 amps.
A 1.0mm2 cable will be fine. Often on older cars this circuit will not be individually fused but you can fit a 5A fuse.

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Mr Whippy

posted on 15/12/20 at 09:08 AM Reply With Quote
Make sure your coil isn't one which needs a ballast resister, this is often stated on the coil. If its meant to have one your points won't last very long before burning out. Personally I prefer to not use one and just have a good battery but they were very common on Fords. Saying that going for electronic points and a matching high power coil is one of the best things you can do with an old engine.

As for the wiring yeah it's not much at all and I'd too just opt for a 6 amp cable with a 5amp fuse.

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sammundo

posted on 15/12/20 at 04:38 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks you. Its a none ballast coil and electronic ignition.
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shortcircuit

posted on 18/12/20 at 12:16 PM Reply With Quote
Going to jump in here and seek advice.

My 1300 xflow is difficult to start and on checking I find that a Lucas DLB125 electronic ignition coil has been fitted using standard contacts. Could this be the reason for starting problems.

I have options of taking the advice to go electronic using coil or going back to a standard coil. Any recommendations as to which electronic conversion kit to use?

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Mr Whippy

posted on 18/12/20 at 12:46 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by shortcircuit
Going to jump in here and seek advice.

My 1300 xflow is difficult to start and on checking I find that a Lucas DLB125 electronic ignition coil has been fitted using standard contacts. Could this be the reason for starting problems.

I have options of taking the advice to go electronic using coil or going back to a standard coil. Any recommendations as to which electronic conversion kit to use?


Depends if its the original distributor as if it is I'd just replace the whole thing as they get worn out and wobbly. Burton power I think are way over priced for such things but there's this on ebay

ebay link which is what I would expect to pay and look like it's even UK made.

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shortcircuit

posted on 18/12/20 at 12:58 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for that prompt reply.

Will consider replacement in full but still wonder if the incorrect coil is the problem?

With the ebay link I always get a bit concerned as when I provide vehicle details for compatibility they always return unsuitable. A prior enquiry first before purchase

[Edited on 18/12/20 by shortcircuit]

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rusty nuts

posted on 18/12/20 at 01:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by shortcircuit
Going to jump in here and seek advice.

My 1300 xflow is difficult to start and on checking I find that a Lucas DLB125 electronic ignition coil has been fitted using standard contacts. Could this be the reason for starting problems.

I have options of taking the advice to go electronic using coil or going back to a standard coil. Any recommendations as to which electronic conversion kit to use?


If you can find one ,a distributor, coil and wiring from a Valencia engined Fiesta is a straight forward reliable fit

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shortcircuit

posted on 18/12/20 at 02:06 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for that suggestion.
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Russell

posted on 19/12/20 at 12:54 PM Reply With Quote
I'm scratching in my memory banks here, but doesn't old skool (points) ignition vs. electronic ignition work like this:

1. Points ignition includes a ballast resistor in line with the feed to the coil, so the coil is actually operating at around 9v. When the starter solenoid operates, it provides an auxiliary 12v feed to the coil (effectively shorting out the ballast resistor) to give a stronger spark that compensates for the drop in battery voltage caused by the high current load during starting. The coil can handle the overvoltage because it's only for a few seconds.

2. Electronic ignition uses a Hall effect sensor to replace the points and also does away with the ballast resistor so the coil runs at 12v all the time.

If you use a points type coil on an electronic system you risk it overheating (permanent 12v; should be 9v). If you use an electronic type coil on a points type system you'll get a weaker spark.

There are a number of electronic ignition conversion kits for Motorcraft and Lucas distributors on eBay, around the 35 to 60 mark. You should be able to budget at the lower end if you already have an electronic type coil you can use.





I'm a bilingual illiterate. I can't read in two languages.

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shortcircuit

posted on 19/12/20 at 01:28 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the informative suggestions. I have a DLB105 on the way and will give that a go with the points. If not good enough I can get a Hall effect sensor system and use current coil. Gosh I am spoiled for choices.
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rusty nuts

posted on 19/12/20 at 01:58 PM Reply With Quote
Just remembered , Fomoco distributors can suffer a high voltage drop across the points , fitting a small earth lead between one of the points securing screws and one of the baseplate to distributor body screws helps and also improves starting
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shortcircuit

posted on 19/12/20 at 02:03 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks again.
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shortcircuit

posted on 22/12/20 at 02:51 PM Reply With Quote
DLB 105 just fitted. Engine starts no problem and even sounds sweeter. Again thanks for help. Retest booked for 6th Jan ,
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