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Author: Subject: Handbrake adjuster / equaliser
jps

posted on 15/12/20 at 09:07 AM Reply With Quote
Handbrake adjuster / equaliser

I've been trying to work out the fitting for my Sierra handbrake cable into my Haynes.

I had been expecting to fit it like this
handbrake details 123
handbrake details 123

But my handbrake lever is a bit further back, and so I think i'll be a bit short on space to use the cresent moon shaped equaliser AND have space to re-join the handbrake cable using clamps as above.

It seems a simple solution will be to replace the current equaliser with something more like this:
Handbrake2
Handbrake2

With a drilled bolt securing the ends of the inner cables to the equaliser - along these lines:



Will it still be acceptable to have the original Sierra tension adjuster on a single side - or will I be left fiddling about adjusting the individual cable tension where the cables meet the equaliser?

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Mr Whippy

posted on 15/12/20 at 09:18 AM Reply With Quote
Firstly, have you tried sitting in the car (in the seats) and using the handbrake? On my car the handbrake was so far back I would have had to dislocate my shoulder just to operate it. It needs to be almost up to the gearlever.

As for your adjuster, simply replace the rod coming from the Sierra handbrake with a new one. It is very easy to make, just a steel rod hammered flat at the ends (blow torch helps) with two holes drilled, then you can use the standard Sierra equaliser quadrant thing. This is what I did and it was so easy and the handbrake cable is kept completely standard.

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jps

posted on 15/12/20 at 10:46 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Firstly, have you tried sitting in the car (in the seats) and using the handbrake? On my car the handbrake was so far back I would have had to dislocate my shoulder just to operate it. It needs to be almost up to the gearlever.

As for your adjuster, simply replace the rod coming from the Sierra handbrake with a new one. It is very easy to make, just a steel rod hammered flat at the ends (blow torch helps) with two holes drilled, then you can use the standard Sierra equaliser quadrant thing. This is what I did and it was so easy and the handbrake cable is kept completely standard.


Yes, it's workable and placed to be 'out of the way' so a bit of a reach, but useable.

Good point, not sure why I had dismissed your solution as an option... The link bar between the handbrake and the quadrant seems to be secured to the handbrake lever by some kind of rivet. Before I drill it out, is there any other way to get that fixing out?

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Mr Whippy

posted on 15/12/20 at 10:59 AM Reply With Quote
I just drilled it out and replaced it with a bolt and nylock. Also use a piece of angle to hold the Sierra cable adjusters rather than square tube as in the picture. That way you only need two holes with a slots to hold them and no need to cut the cable.

[Edited on 15/12/20 by Mr Whippy]

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nick205

posted on 15/12/20 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
jps

The 3rd image in your first post (cables through a drilled set screw + nut) is mine from my MK Indy. I used the Sierra handbrake lever and half moon arrangement. I didn't the drilled set screw + nut was simply my way of securing the cut ends of the inner cables together from bits I had available. It also took up minimal space in the tunnel and cleared the prop shaft. I drilled the set screw myself using my pillar drill. It was free apart from my time spent.

On reflection the handbrake lever was right in the way of the drivers left elbow, which ended up quite annoying. If building again I might try and figure out another handrake solution to leave the tunnel top clear for that improved driver comfort.

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JAG

posted on 15/12/20 at 11:09 AM Reply With Quote
OR you could move the handbrake lever and make it easier to fit, easier to accommodate the longer standard cables and easier to operate when driving etc...

My handbrake lever installation, non-standard.
My handbrake lever installation, non-standard.


This is my car and the handbrake lever is next to the gearstick.





Justin


Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!

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jps

posted on 15/12/20 at 11:16 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
use a piece of angle to hold the Sierra cable adjusters rather than square tube as in the picture. That way you only need two holes with a slots to hold them and no need to cut the cable.
[Edited on 15/12/20 by Mr Whippy]


It's a simple flat plate in my chassis, but I will still have to cut the cable as the standard Sierra one I have is too long. I think i'll still slot the holes, just to make setting it all up easier, before I cut the cable.

I have seen the replacement ends, for disc calipers, which MK and others do - but don't fancy paying 15 for one when I can use the cheap bolt solution Nick used!

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peter030371

posted on 15/12/20 at 11:30 AM Reply With Quote
All Sylva designed cars (I think its all of them) are like this for a reason

Tunnel sides
Tunnel sides


Totally out the way and leaves the drivers elbow room to move about. Some do move it a little closer to the driver but that depends on seat choice and position.

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nick205

posted on 15/12/20 at 03:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
All Sylva designed cars (I think its all of them) are like this for a reason

Tunnel sides
Tunnel sides


Totally out the way and leaves the drivers elbow room to move about. Some do move it a little closer to the driver but that depends on seat choice and position.




I like that design approach - keeps the tunnel top clear and as you say, space for the driver's elbow!

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jps

posted on 15/12/20 at 05:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
All Sylva designed cars (I think its all of them) are like this for a reason

Tunnel sides
Tunnel sides


Totally out the way and leaves the drivers elbow room to move about. Some do move it a little closer to the driver but that depends on seat choice and position.


I finally understand what people mean by 'handbrake lever under the dashboard' - I always pictured it in my mind as being horizontal - like it was in the glovebox.

I'll add that development to the LONG list of things i'd do differently for the second car I build! For now I want to carry on down the path i've started on!

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nick205

posted on 16/12/20 at 10:10 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jps
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
All Sylva designed cars (I think its all of them) are like this for a reason

Tunnel sides
Tunnel sides


Totally out the way and leaves the drivers elbow room to move about. Some do move it a little closer to the driver but that depends on seat choice and position.


I finally understand what people mean by 'handbrake lever under the dashboard' - I always pictured it in my mind as being horizontal - like it was in the glovebox.

I'll add that development to the LONG list of things i'd do differently for the second car I build! For now I want to carry on down the path i've started on!




jps - you have eactly the same thoughts as me! I also thought an "under dashboard handbrake" would be either horizontal or possibly a pull handle (some tin tops had them years ago). Like me you seem to have a mental list of 2nd time build improvements you'd like to use. Like me also you want to push ahead with what you're building without major alterations.

"Great minds think alike" - as they say

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jps

posted on 16/12/20 at 12:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Like me you seem to have a mental list of 2nd time build improvements you'd like to use. Like me also you want to push ahead with what you're building without major alterations.

"Great minds think alike" - as they say


Indeed Nick - finding time to work on my build is a challenge - life has got in the way of my build regularly, hence the slow progress and I sometimes wish I had gone with a 'kit' like a GBS or similar rather than the Haynes, where it feels like there's so much more definition to what needs to be done, and less problem solving. Given I haven't, i'd definitely trying to move to a 'good enough' approach - rather than 'exactly as I'd have liked it...' !

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nick205

posted on 16/12/20 at 01:35 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jps
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Like me you seem to have a mental list of 2nd time build improvements you'd like to use. Like me also you want to push ahead with what you're building without major alterations.

"Great minds think alike" - as they say


Indeed Nick - finding time to work on my build is a challenge - life has got in the way of my build regularly, hence the slow progress and I sometimes wish I had gone with a 'kit' like a GBS or similar rather than the Haynes, where it feels like there's so much more definition to what needs to be done, and less problem solving. Given I haven't, i'd definitely trying to move to a 'good enough' approach - rather than 'exactly as I'd have liked it...' !



Understand where you're coming from. I built an MK Indy kit, which was pretty well defined in terms of which bits to use and how to use them. Scratch building, even with instructions, is the next level up.

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