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Author: Subject: Pinto Ignition.
MrMaddog

posted on 26/12/20 at 03:05 PM Reply With Quote
Pinto Ignition.

I have recently purchased a Luego Velocity that is fitted with a Pinto engine.
I have no supporting paperwork, but the previous owner said the engine had been modified with re-worked head, valves, performance cam ,lighten flywheel and bored to 2.1
Unfortunately He had no paperwork supporting the rebuild that was done before he purchased the car.
He seemed an honest chap and I have no reason to disbelieve him.
My problem is, Im trying to tune the engine and need some baseline figures.
I would like to replace the distributor and coil as I'm not to sure of the age and condition of the existing unit and currently experiencing bad misfires.
If the engine has been worked then I guess ill need a distributor that is up to the job in terms or modified advance etc.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated!!!

Mark

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perksy

posted on 26/12/20 at 03:14 PM Reply With Quote
Worth checking the plugs and leads first

Is the engine using electronic ignition and does the miss-fire happen when the engine is cold or just when its hot?

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MrMaddog

posted on 26/12/20 at 03:22 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks!
New plugs and leads fitted.
Backfiring and Spitting back through carbs!!

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rusty nuts

posted on 26/12/20 at 03:59 PM Reply With Quote
What carbs? Also I would suggest starting at the basics, check and adjust the valve clearances normally with the engine cold but you really need to know what cam is fitted to get the correct settings AND valve timing . Check compression with the engine hot . Ignition timing ? will vary according to spec of the engine but a rough setting of 8degrees BTDC should get the engine idling . Check and adjust carb balance and emissions lastly . A good session on a rolling road works wonders
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MrMaddog

posted on 26/12/20 at 04:16 PM Reply With Quote
That’s the problem!
I have no spec on the engine 😞

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Dingz

posted on 26/12/20 at 05:07 PM Reply With Quote
Forget the engine spec at the moment, read what Rusty said. What ignition advance do you currently have ?





Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.

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rusty nuts

posted on 26/12/20 at 05:22 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MrMaddog
That’s the problem!
I have no spec on the engine 😞


Get in touch with the guy you brought the car from and ask if he has contact details of the original builder?

Sometimes a part number is stamped on the cam which maybe of help ?

[Edited on 26/12/20 by rusty nuts]

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mcerd1

posted on 26/12/20 at 05:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MrMaddog
That’s the problem!
I have no spec on the engine 😞

^^ thats not necessarily a big problem anyway - you can still work it out

For starters the carb's shouldn't bee too difficult to identify - most will have the type cast into the body somewhere - knowing this will give you some hints to the spec of the engine (assuming they were correctly sized before)

Is the ignition system using points or is it electronic ?
has the ignition still got a vac. advance ? and how has it been connected up ?

as above valve clearance is an easy one to check - so well worth doing (new rocker gaskets are cheap if you need one too - less than £5 for the cork ones)

As far as the cam, when you take the cover off to check the valve clearance - see if its got any id stamped on the end - but as long as its not too badly setup right now I wouldn't worry in the short term if you don't find anything
the only immediate concern here would be to make sure its not out by a whole tooth on the belt - that would make it run rough (and its more common than you'd think) but cover the other basics first

what sort of tools / measuring kit have you got available ?
a cheap set of digital calipers is probably all you'll need to ID the setup of the carb's (try Aldi/Lidl if you need a set, they often have them)
a cheap set of feeler gauges is all you need for the valve clearances and spark gaps
a timing strobe will tell you most of what you need to know on the ignition timing
and all you'd really need to get a good idea of the type of cam is a dial gauge and a timing wheel ( linky + linky2 ) that way you can measure the actual lift, timing and duration

obviously you'd need to take the head off to measure the valve size etc. but you should be able to get it running nicely without anything that drastic





-

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jacko

posted on 26/12/20 at 05:52 PM Reply With Quote
First thing where are you some one on here maybe able to come and help
We need to know a few things
What carbs are fitted if Webber’s or bike carbs are they balanced Do you have a adjustable cam pulley
What dissy has the engine got
It will help if you can put some photos up of the engine and car it maybe known on here
Jacko

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MrMaddog

posted on 26/12/20 at 06:10 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Guys, some good tips!!

Carbs are twin Dellorto DHLA 40F Idle set 31/2 turns out.
Ignition is set to 8% BTDC ( Ive twisted dizzy while engine running to get best spot for smoothest running)
Dizzy is Vac version but I've blanked of the Vac at the manifold. It has Alidon Igniter conversion.(sucking on pipe has no affect)
I've check resistance on coil but get .002 at 2k setting on multimeter for primary and 5.85k on the secondary( Seems weird??)
Engine will tick over around 1000rpm but spits fuel out of carbs still, although does have periods of running okay, hot and cold.
I have strobe, dial gauge, Carb synchrometer, feeler gauges, compression tester.
I have contacted the seller but he has no contact for the original builder unfortunately.
Thanks for the links BTW I need a timing disc.

Mark

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jacko

posted on 26/12/20 at 06:26 PM Reply With Quote
Has the engine ever run ok whilst you have had the car
Just a thought could it be 180 deg out
Jacko

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MrMaddog

posted on 26/12/20 at 07:49 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Has the engine ever run ok whilst you have had the car
Just a thought could it be 180 deg out
Jacko


No I've only had her for a couple of weeks.

[Edited on 26/12/20 by MrMaddog]

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jacko

posted on 26/12/20 at 08:33 PM Reply With Quote
Are the carbs balanced ? If not that can make the carbs spit back
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MrMaddog

posted on 27/12/20 at 10:38 AM Reply With Quote
I'll check it out.
Thanks

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shortcircuit

posted on 27/12/20 at 03:13 PM Reply With Quote
Having resolved a similar problem with poor starting and backfire, found that a coil for electronic ignition had been fitted with normal points resulting in poor spark Changed to a points type coil and now ok. Simple check
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snapper

posted on 30/12/20 at 03:33 PM Reply With Quote
Is the cam pulley an adjustable one, i.e. vernier type either Allen key adjustable or peg type?
You can check cam specifications by pulling off the rocker cover and looking at the rear ending the cam which if it is a performance cam BBC will have manufacturers cam type stamped in the end.





I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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MrMaddog

posted on 31/12/20 at 06:36 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by snapper
Is the cam pulley an adjustable one, i.e. vernier type either Allen key adjustable or peg type?
You can check cam specifications by pulling off the rocker cover and looking at the rear ending the cam which if it is a performance cam BBC will have manufacturers cam type stamped in the end.


I have taken the rocker cover off and stamped on the end of the Camshaft is NCP2 ?
The Pulley is adjustable and the inlet cam lobe has a 7mm lift.

[Edited on 31/12/20 by MrMaddog]

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rusty nuts

posted on 31/12/20 at 08:09 AM Reply With Quote
Newman cams phase 2 ? Plenty of info on their website
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MrMaddog

posted on 31/12/20 at 09:17 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Newman cams phase 2 ? Plenty of info on their website


Thanks you, that really helps me!!!
Also thanks to everyone who made the effort to reply .
It’s very much appreciated.

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