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Author: Subject: IVA - a Second Fail and a First Pass!
Badger_McLetcher

posted on 31/3/21 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
IVA - a Second Fail and a First Pass!

Well, third time lucky!
I went in for my second test thinking I'd addressed everything from my first fail (http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/29/viewthread.php?tid=217498); I was wrong

02B - Metered Emissions. I got sent a baseline map off sdh2903 (very gratefully recieved!) and spent ages remapping the car, specifically the RPM at which emissions were monitored, and it passed by the skin of its teeth!

09C: Park Brake Control. Didn't solve this the second time round and it failed. During prep for the third attempt I finally realised the top of the tunnel trim was catching at the rear of the lever - I cut it back and I sorted the issue!

09D: Hydraulic Systems. Label on ordered and fitted - sorted.

09E: Brake Performance. Failed on the second time; I readjusted the calipers and fitted a restrictor to the rear lines to stop them becoming too good - a biiig mistake! It failed on the second test as overall brake efficiency wasn't high enough. For the third time I removed the restrictor, thoroughly bled the system, fitted some greenstuff pads to the rear and chocked up the rear of the car so I could spin the wheels and bed them in slightly. That almost worked too well! It was getting borderline whether I'd need the restrictor again

12: Interior Fittings. 3D printed some edging with the required radius and attached it to the underside of the dash; not pretty but it worked!

16: Exterior Projections. For the second test I used some split conduit held in place by cable ties on the track rod locknuts and got failed on it, as it didn't look professional enough. For the third test I bought some thinwall PVC tubing to slide over them, then some adhesive lined heatshrink over the top of that. It's a pain to remove, but it passed this time.

25: Headlamps. Re-aimed them, still didn't get it quite right but luckily the tester helped me out with that in the end.

31: Seat Belts. I replaced the 4-point Luke items with some more conventional latch types, and that passed fine.

33: Identification of Controls. Labelled the starter button like I should have before

44: Masses and Dimensions. Added 50kg to the rear; glad I didn't put the masses on the makers plates!

General Construction.
I went around and tightened/swapped out the fixings as required. Tried to solve the oil leak with a new sump gasket, and it was fine until two days before the test when it started leaking again. Slathered it in silicon- it still leaks very slightly, but held off long enough for the test!

On the third test it got through - I am very, very relieved! Of course the car started making some horrendous rattling/tappety noises from the engine just before the test, as it couldn't all go my way But luckily it passed and I got it home OK. Now to figure out the rattle...

I have to say though, the short amount I've driven it... IT'S AWESOME!!! Well worth the eight years of time I've put into it







If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.

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magpies

posted on 31/3/21 at 05:55 PM Reply With Quote
Well done Badger
Is the oil pressure ok?
What inlet are you using?

Mick (AJ30 TVR S1)

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roadrunner

posted on 31/3/21 at 06:53 PM Reply With Quote
Congrats Badger.

Enjoy the driving.

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 31/3/21 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers guys
Oil PX light turns on and off, unfortunately that's about my only reference at this point. My mate says something similar happens with Skylines when their exhaust gasket blows, definitely worth a check if nothing else!

Sorry, forgot to say - it's on the ST200 inlet at the moment.


[Edited on 31/3/21 by Badger_McLetcher]





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ianhurley20

posted on 31/3/21 at 08:26 PM Reply With Quote
Well done Badger - it's brilliant when you finally get there and worth every effort you put into it





My build blog http://ianhaynes20.wordpress.com IVA passed 3/10/16
written off 23/9/18
Aug 2019 completed Tiger Avon with ST170 on TB's
Now restoring 1968 Ginetta G4
And - a series 1 Land Rover - don't ask why! - 03/21 - Now finished

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big_wasa

posted on 31/3/21 at 08:29 PM Reply With Quote
Well done.

There is some info some where that says the cam caps or somthing come loose.

https://youtu.be/V5azm1NS2_M

[Edited on 31/3/21 by big_wasa]

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40inches

posted on 31/3/21 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
Regarding the cam rattle, mine did that to the extent that I took it to the local JLR franchise, they said it was most likely
the VVT actuator on the cam pulley, but not to worry as a lot of Jags with the AJ30 did it but the drivers couldn't hear it in the car
I sort of fixed it when I changed the VVT actuation method in the Megasquirt software to switch on at 1800 RPM without reference to the TPS position. Once the valve has switched on, by blipping the throttle to 2000RPM the rattle suddenly stops and doesn't come back, until the oil drains out overnight

[Edited on 31-3-21 by 40inches]

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 31/3/21 at 09:45 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Well done.

There is some info some where that says the cam caps or somthing come loose.

https://youtu.be/V5azm1NS2_M

[Edited on 31/3/21 by big_wasa]


Yeaaaaahhh that sounds familiar Thanks for the link though!





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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 31/3/21 at 09:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Regarding the cam rattle, mine did that to the extent that I took it to the local JLR franchise, they said it was most likely
the VVT actuator on the cam pulley, but not to worry as a lot of Jags with the AJ30 did it but the drivers couldn't hear it in the car
I sort of fixed it when I changed the VVT actuation method in the Megasquirt software to switch on at 1800 RPM without reference to the TPS position. Once the valve has switched on, by blipping the throttle to 2000RPM the rattle suddenly stops and doesn't come back, until the oil drains out overnight

[Edited on 31-3-21 by 40inches]


It's always been a bit of a tappety sounding engine tbh, but this is significantly louder unfortunately. I feel an investigation session coming on Monday (my next free day!).

[Edited on 31/3/21 by Badger_McLetcher]





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sdh2903

posted on 31/3/21 at 09:55 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Regarding the cam rattle, mine did that to the extent that I took it to the local JLR franchise, they said it was most likely
the VVT actuator on the cam pulley, but not to worry as a lot of Jags with the AJ30 did it but the drivers couldn't hear it in the car
I sort of fixed it when I changed the VVT actuation method in the Megasquirt software to switch on at 1800 RPM without reference to the TPS position. Once the valve has switched on, by blipping the throttle to 2000RPM the rattle suddenly stops and doesn't come back, until the oil drains out overnight

[Edited on 31-3-21 by 40inches]


I had something similar. The oil screen mesh on the vvt solenoid had disintegrated and jammed the solenoid. Caused some very odd behaviour and noises. Screens now removed from both solenoids

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harmchar

posted on 1/4/21 at 12:43 PM Reply With Quote
Well done on the pass. Must be a relief.
Can you shed more light on the below.
09D: Hydraulic Systems. Label on ordered and fitted - sorted
What label are they on about now?

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 1/4/21 at 09:07 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by harmchar
Well done on the pass. Must be a relief.
Can you shed more light on the below.
09D: Hydraulic Systems. Label on ordered and fitted - sorted
What label are they on about now?


No worries - it's this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IVA-Brake-Fluid-ID-Sticker-Label-Kitcar-Kit-Car-Locost/222792047383?hash=item33df70db17:g:a~QAAOSwQItT7Pay

I just stuck it to the bulkhead next to the master cylinder.





If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 13/4/21 at 01:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
Regarding the cam rattle, mine did that to the extent that I took it to the local JLR franchise, they said it was most likely
the VVT actuator on the cam pulley, but not to worry as a lot of Jags with the AJ30 did it but the drivers couldn't hear it in the car
I sort of fixed it when I changed the VVT actuation method in the Megasquirt software to switch on at 1800 RPM without reference to the TPS position. Once the valve has switched on, by blipping the throttle to 2000RPM the rattle suddenly stops and doesn't come back, until the oil drains out overnight

[Edited on 31-3-21 by 40inches]


I had something similar. The oil screen mesh on the vvt solenoid had disintegrated and jammed the solenoid. Caused some very odd behaviour and noises. Screens now removed from both solenoids


I ran the car a bit to try to figure it out the other weekend, and unfortunately playing around with the VVT didn't make a difference. Went around with a screwdriver to the ear, but couldn't really make out where it was coming from. Checked the exhausts for leaks, but that was fine as well.

I've had the rocker covers off now - bit of a mixed bag. Cams were still secure, so that's a definitely relief! The oil screen on one of the VVT solenoids had disintegrated as well, but that didn't seem to be the source of the noise unfortunately. Timing chain seems fine, had a look down the bores with a borescope and they seem OK.

Since I've not found the source, I'm beginning to think a rebuild is in order. The engine has to come out to be stripped anyways, as I won't be happy until I can find the source of the noise - as I was removing the prop bolts I found the rear seal on the transmission also seems to have developed a leak, so that needs attention too!

At least it held on long enough to do the IVA!





If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.

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magpies

posted on 13/4/21 at 04:03 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Badger
on the pistonheads TVR S forum one of the chaps Blue30 has had problems with his AJ30 and has run a couple of bearings while being set up on Joolz rolling road.
Have a read of this - halfway down page 20 dated Jan31
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=11&t=1636478&i=380

He has added this to our fb page..... Bulletproof AJV6...
As you guys are aware of my (self inflicted) engine oil starvation issue which caused a couple of my big ends to partially break up.
Now I have completed the mechanical rebuild, I think I am in a position in to give my thoughts on the bottom end longevity of these engines.
In essence, with a good service/oil change regime these engines should last a long time, a very long time, as it's a simple, robust, and reliable layout. So if your engine is from a 100k miles plus car, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
The only slightly negative point to note is, the cost and availability of internal engine parts.
12 each for a generally out of stock big end bolt is extortionate. The same Ford badged item in the USA is less than 2usd.
So, in short, my repair has cost me at least 200. If the damage had been any worse, I would have seriously considered buying a full replacement used engine. Currently there are plenty available for between 200 - 500.
As you know reasonable whole cars can been bought for 800 - 1500, mileage & condition dependant.
It'll be a week or so before I turn the Ign key to see if all is good with my engine now, as I want to do some other jobs whilst I'm in the mood...


By the way, by the end of the year there should be 8 TVR S's converted to Jag engines

[Edited on 13/4/21 by magpies]

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 13/4/21 at 09:34 PM Reply With Quote
Hmmm, that's an interesting point. I'm using an X-type sump and pickup; they seemed to marry up fine (as you'd expect), but now I'm wondering if that might have caused an issue. Just priced up the components for a full rebuild; 1150 so far and still missing a couple of bits! The head bolts are about 192 on their own If I can lower the bill I'll be a very happy man.





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magpies

posted on 13/4/21 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
Mine is using the X type sump and is ok after near 2000 miles.
The parts seem to be MUCH cheaper in the USA and I have a contact who will forward stuff to the UK

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 14/4/21 at 02:03 PM Reply With Quote
Hah, probably not that then! I may have a poke around on the US prices - I've a couple of contacts over there who may be able to send stuff on to me. Was hoping I may find Duratec items a bit cheaper as well.





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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 13/5/21 at 07:24 AM Reply With Quote
Just to bottom this out - the engine spun the big end bearing on No4, which looks likes it's knackered the crank. I bought a secondhand engine as a donor for the crank, but on collection it looks to be in really good nick so may just bung that one in!





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CosKev3

posted on 13/5/21 at 03:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Badger_McLetcher
Hmmm, that's an interesting point. I'm using an X-type sump and pickup; they seemed to marry up fine (as you'd expect), but now I'm wondering if that might have caused an issue. Just priced up the components for a full rebuild; 1150 so far and still missing a couple of bits! The head bolts are about 192 on their own If I can lower the bill I'll be a very happy man.


That ridiculous, I've just bought head gaskets,sump gasket,cam cover gaskets and headbolts for under 160 delivered from USA!
Felpro stuff too which is great quality.
I use RockAuto
Headbolts are in offer atm 12.67 per head!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,2000,s-type,3.0l+v6,1363294,engine,cylinder+head+bolt,5308

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 13/5/21 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by Badger_McLetcher
Hmmm, that's an interesting point. I'm using an X-type sump and pickup; they seemed to marry up fine (as you'd expect), but now I'm wondering if that might have caused an issue. Just priced up the components for a full rebuild; 1150 so far and still missing a couple of bits! The head bolts are about 192 on their own If I can lower the bill I'll be a very happy man.


That ridiculous, I've just bought head gaskets,sump gasket,cam cover gaskets and headbolts for under 160 delivered from USA!
Felpro stuff too which is great quality.
I use RockAuto
Headbolts are in offer atm 12.67 per head!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,2000,s-type,3.0l+v6,1363294,engine,cylinder+head+bolt,5308


WOW that's a bit of a drop! My current thinking is that I'll drop the new engine in to get it going again - had a call from the DVLA earlier and hopefully my reg will be coming through soon. That'll allow me to drive it and I can take a bit of time rebuilding the old engine.





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