Since we started with a video, here's one from today -
(https://youtu.be/8yt78lz8djY)
It doesn't sound great and still plenty of fettling required (I have got the idle slightly better since this). I think the next step is to fit
the new exhaust, the current one is a mess which probably isn't helping, then I can try to get the carbs balanced better and the mixture
sorted.
Thanks again everyone for all your help. Knowing the starter was OK was really helpful to start with and I've learned loads. Plenty more to do
but I'm more optimistic about summer again!
getting it running (however badly) is a huge step, well done!
its is simpler now, as you can now check/adjust one thing at a time, so you know the bit that's just been changed, and revert the change if its
any worse.
Thanks. This weekend it's running with the new exhaust. Sounds a bit nicer and the exhaust can is glowing orange! Slightly terrifying the first
time - timing and mixture adjustments needed I think!l
So... I can get it to start most of the time, but often needs to be jumped from another battery. It seems to need a heck of a lot of power to get a
1300 going. Even once it's warm it doesn't start well consistently. I think once it's running it should easily restart while still
warm, but that isn't the case.
I have a theory - there's smoke (I think - could be steam) coming from the crankcase and head breathers. When I turn it over on the starter and
open the throttle it releases smoke, even if not firing. The head was previously repaired, and my theory is that the repair has failed and I'm
getting oil and water mixing. I also have very high oil pressure on the gauge (though don't 100% trust the gauge).
Does this sound a reasonable theory?
The head had a crack across the water jacket between cylinders 2 and 3 - not connecting them but across the head. This was repaired, but I wonder if
it's now not perfectly flat and leaking or something.
Again very grateful for anyone with more experience to comment on my theory!
Cheers
Hi, with the exhaust glowing it means that the emissions aren't correct, so maybe see if you can get hold of a 'colortune' device to
see how each plug is burning the mixture, it will allow you to correct the idle mixture. If you still have a cracked head it will mean the water
cooling system will be over pressurised enough to see that too so just check it when first started to see if you have constant pressure within the
cooling system straight away when the temp stat isn't open.
Check the wiring for a good earth wire from the battery to the engine block and chassis, along with checking you have a good connection on the starter
connections.
Thanks Deckman. Earths are good now, I have checked them and cleaned them all and added a second engine-chassis one.
I'll try to get hold of a Colourtune, think it's about the only Gunson tool I haven't got yet!
I'll see if I can measure the water pressure to see if there's a leak, thanks for the tip. But I certainly think there is now, I can see
some tiny bubbles in the oil on the dipstick.
Sadly yes, the dreaded mayonnaise is inside the cap and on the dipstick. I have a second head (very mucky but looks OK otherwise) so I'm biting
the bullet and getting ready to swap over. So the new plan is...
Clean up the "new" head
Swap over
With newly learned skills set valve clearances and ignition timing
Hopefully it then runs
Get colortune and use it to set mixture
See if I can get a half decent idle
If so, take the head back off and get it converted to unleaded
I hoped to see something spectacular so I would know exactly what's going on, but I'm not sure I can see any evidence of leaking really?
On the gasket you can see where it has taken the shape of the crack. The block has some white marks on it around the shape of the gasket, particularly
in the middle (where the crack it), so maybe this shows that the head isn't flat and is leaking there.
It also looks like (I think) there might be a leak between the water jacket and the intake into 2 and 3, which is not ideal. My manifold doesn't
have a connection for the water jacket as some do so I suppose the gasket hasn't been tight enough there to seal it. I did torque it up to the
book settings, but this time I'll borrow a more recently calibrated torque wrench from work!
As far as the exhaust glowing it would more likely to be caused by incorrect ignition timing , if you have a decent timing light then check the
advance curve of the distributor as well as the timing at idle. A largely overlooked tool for tuning is a vacuum gauge, download a chart of vacuum
gauge readings, can be used to diagnose loads of engine problems
Thanks. I do have a timing light and checked the timing marks with a piston stop after a suggestion here. Setting it to 10 deg at idle seemed to get
it running easiest but it won't idle much below 2000 rpm. At 2000 the curve I have says it should be getting up to 20deg, so it probably needs
advancing. Thinking about it I suppose I should turn it over on the starter without plugs and set it to 10deg there, rather than at
"idle".
The vacuum gauge is a good idea, thanks. I've not used one before but just had a quick read and looks like it will be useful once it's
running a bit more consistently.
While the head is off I wanted to check the piston rings arent buggered so I put some oil around the edges last night - hopefully it's still
there later
Final update - I think there were multiple little problems so thanks all for the help. I now have a new head, good compression, carbs cleaned and
reinstalled, timed and set. Engine is running the best it ever has now - woohoo! Colourtune and carb vac gauge balancing still to finiish but it idles
steady (if a bit high) and started on the button from cold at lunchtime today. Which is a bit of a relief as my IVA is booked for 4th May
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