Nourish
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posted on 24/9/24 at 08:43 PM |
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A arm design
When building your own wishbone/A arms is there a rule of thumb to the spacing of the chassis mounts ? Cheers
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JoelP
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posted on 24/9/24 at 09:11 PM |
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It's just down to what works with packaging. Too close puts twists into the chassis. Too far apart limits steering lock. The positions also need
to tie in with chassis design, so they're not just in the middle of unbraced tubes. Are you building your own chassis?
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Nourish
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posted on 25/9/24 at 10:43 AM |
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I'd have to own up here - this is for a classic car - I thought this forum would be where the people that know could help me
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 25/9/24 at 11:49 AM |
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I doubt there is any rule of thumb at all. However obviously the wishbone needs to still fit within the limits of the front wheel travel when on full
lock and that is where I personally start. So turn it to full lock and measure the angle the arm could be before hitting the wheel/tyre and
there's your wishbone spacing.
If your talking about the vertical distance then it's just what it would be for the wishbone or arms to be level when at a normal loaded
position.
With my old Volvo S60 they got this so horrifically wrong they had to add plastic spacers to the wishbones and metal scuff plates to the wheel arch
just to get the cars through the MOT. Even then they scraped away on full lock and had the turning circle of a truck.
[Edited on 25/9/24 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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loggyboy
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posted on 25/9/24 at 11:58 AM |
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** An arm design :p
Mistral Motorsport
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gremlin1234
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posted on 25/9/24 at 12:44 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by loggyboy
** An arm design :p
'An '"A" arm design'
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gremlin1234
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posted on 25/9/24 at 12:46 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Nourish
I'd have to own up here - this is for a classic car - I thought this forum would be where the people that know could help me
tell us more about the classic car please ;-)
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nick205
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posted on 25/9/24 at 01:01 PM |
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Tell us more about the classic car you're working on?
Are you copying and replacing an existing "A" arm?
Are you modifying the chassis and "A" arm pivot points"
Some more info might help people give more guidance.
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Nourish
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posted on 25/9/24 at 09:44 PM |
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This is for a Morris Minor with the intension of fitting an ST170 engine, type 9 box and an Escort axle with a 5 bar link set up. For the front
I'd be doing away with the torsion bars and using coil overs as with the back end. I've made some A Triumph Herald top wishbones but now
wonder if they're too narrow. I'd post a picture but I don't have a host site
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nick205
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posted on 26/9/24 at 08:28 AM |
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You can post photos on this site.
Look top left, below the "LOCOSTBUILDERS" logo for "Photo Archive".
Add your photo to your "Photo Archive" and then add it to your post.
If we can see what you're doing (or attempting) we'll be much better informed.
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Nourish
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posted on 28/9/24 at 12:17 AM |
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Thanks Nick but I must be thick! I try to add a picture - select from my pc - add a title and I keep getting the message "Sorry! Filenames must
be alpha-numeric (ie letters, numbers '-', '_' and space) [IMG_1206[1].jpg" - I've tried all sorts to no avail!
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cliftyhanger
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posted on 28/9/24 at 06:14 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Nourish
This is for a Morris Minor with the intension of fitting an ST170 engine, type 9 box and an Escort axle with a 5 bar link set up. For the front
I'd be doing away with the torsion bars and using coil overs as with the back end. I've made some A Triumph Herald top wishbones but now
wonder if they're too narrow. I'd post a picture but I don't have a host site
Triumph front suspension is very good, it has been used for decades on hotrods, kits and so on. Caterham still use a derivitive of it.
I have a spitfire, ST170 engine, T9 box and scooby diff/rover 100 driveshafts/GT6 uprights. So not that different in many ways.
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nick205
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posted on 30/9/24 at 10:20 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Nourish
Thanks Nick but I must be thick! I try to add a picture - select from my pc - add a title and I keep getting the message "Sorry! Filenames must
be alpha-numeric (ie letters, numbers '-', '_' and space) [IMG_1206[1].jpg" - I've tried all sorts to no avail!
1. Make sure the .jpg image isn't too large. (800x600 pixels is ideal)
2. The .jpg file name has to be not alreay in use on this site
3. In the .jpg filename avoid spaces (use a - or instead)
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gremlin1234
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posted on 30/9/24 at 11:35 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by nick205
quote: Originally posted by Nourish
Thanks Nick but I must be thick! I try to add a picture - select from my pc - add a title and I keep getting the message "Sorry! Filenames must
be alpha-numeric (ie letters, numbers '-', '_' and space) [IMG_1206[1].jpg" - I've tried all sorts to no avail!
1. Make sure the .jpg image isn't too large. (800x600 pixels is ideal)
2. The .jpg file name has to be not already in use on this site
3. In the .jpg filename avoid spaces (use a - or instead)
it looks like he had square brackets in the name, as nick says special chars do not work.
also I recommend prefixing your filename with your user name to ensure it is unique
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coyoteboy
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posted on 1/10/24 at 01:43 PM |
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They're part of a whole system design. If you just bolt on an existing design, the rest of the system has to compatible. The design loads for a
1970s 600kg trundler will not match those for a 900Kg track machine. The brake and acceleration forces depend on the length, and the bearing loads the
inboard ends will depend on the aspect ratio and those forces. It's all linked.
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