Slimy38
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| posted on 11/3/26 at 07:57 AM |
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Wiring fix with no slack on the wire
This is a tintop issue but I'm hoping you clever people have a solution. My Superb estate is having some tailgate issues. It started with the
number plate lights, now it's progressed to the open button not working every time. I'm 99% sure it's in the rubber flex between
tailgate and chassis, because I can wiggle it and get the lights coming back on. I'm 99% sure I can remove panels and take the wiring out, but
I'm not going to be able to find a replacement part so it looks like I need to repair it.
The problem is that because the break is likely inside the rubber flex, I'm not going to have any slack on the wires to be able to bring them
together to repair them. So given their location, the lack of spare wire, the required movement etc, what's the best way to join the wires?
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 11/3/26 at 08:16 AM |
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You don't want a join anywhere near where it flexes. So 2 joins, one either either side makes sense. Not sure if Tri-rated cable would be best,
or pinch a section from the wiring where it doesn't flex and add a 3rd joint.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 11/3/26 at 08:25 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
You don't want a join anywhere near where it flexes. So 2 joins, one either either side makes sense. Not sure if Tri-rated cable would be best,
or pinch a section from the wiring where it doesn't flex and add a 3rd joint.
I've got a load of wiring left over from my kit car build so hopefully I'll be able to find something rated correctly. Two joins makes sense
though. I don't know what tri-rated cable is so I'll look into it, is there an 'extra flexible' wire available that would be
better?
What's the best thing to use for joins here? Crimps?
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nick205
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| posted on 11/3/26 at 10:06 AM |
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cliftyhanger - is correct here, avoid making a joint in the hose part where the cables flex and move. THAT'S where they where out!
Had this same issue in our VW Touran passenger door a few years ago. Knackered wire in the hose!
Managed to remove the door card and trim by your foot inside the car. Joint either side and a clear run of NEW cable through the hose.
Problem resolved.
Even if it takes you a bit more time and effort it's worth it to avoid having to go back and do it again.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 11/3/26 at 10:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
cliftyhanger - is correct here, avoid making a joint in the hose part where the cables flex and move. THAT'S where they where out!
Had this same issue in our VW Touran passenger door a few years ago. Knackered wire in the hose!
Managed to remove the door card and trim by your foot inside the car. Joint either side and a clear run of NEW cable through the hose.
Problem resolved.
Even if it takes you a bit more time and effort it's worth it to avoid having to go back and do it again.
Aye, I really don't want to do this more than once. And I think the emphasis on NEW cable is also right on the money. I'll have to open it
up and have a look at the wire gauge, while some may be signal wires I suspect if the lock motor wire is also broken that could be a bit thicker.
Given how many cars I've had with electrical gubbins in doors and boot lids I'm amazed and a little disappointed that the youngest car
I've owned is the one that has failed.
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