Partofthechaos
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| posted on 20/9/26 at 06:45 PM |
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Nearly Ready for IVA!
I'm about to book the IVA! I'm getting bored of panicking about what could be wrong when the main way to find out is to drive it and that
is the one thing I cant do! I m as sure as I can be that it is ready for IVA so I am going to book it and cross everything I have. The one thing
currently that may hold me back is the battery light on the dash which wont turn off. I assume this would be an IVA fail? The alternator is charging
so I don't know how to resolve this currently.
 
Indy Ready
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Slimy38
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| posted on 20/9/26 at 07:08 PM |
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Erm, I'm 92% sure there is no need for a battery charging light, lit or unlit. Just a quick search in the manual shows the warning light needs to
be of a certain colour, but no mention of what happens if it is lit. You could unplug it completely, if you know it is being charged.
What wiring did you go for? Any particular donor or supplier?
By the way, definitely get it booked. I spent far too long trying to get things perfect for IVA, and failed anyway! Mind you, it was only a few easy
fixes so I suppose a decent amount of prep helps. It takes a couple of months for an appointment to come through, and winter can make things that
little bit extra challenging.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 20/9/26 at 07:13 PM |
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Thank you, yes I need to get in the queue. I've been struggling to get the fueling right, but I think that is sorted now. If there is no need
for a battery light to work I will probably just unplug it.
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JAG
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| posted on 21/9/26 at 07:15 AM |
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My car's been on the road for a while now...
But I've had similar issues with the Alternator Charge Light.
I've tried re-wiring it several different ways and I eventually replaced the Alternator. None of that fixed it!
Ive now disconnecetd the Charge Light and fitted a Voltmeter 
I got a little digital device from Ebay for about £5 
Any way I'd get booked in. If you fail at least you get a list of things to fix which should guarantee a pass at the next attempt 
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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Slimy38
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| posted on 21/9/26 at 11:46 AM |
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Just as an aside, what V6 are you using, and by any chance do you have a photo of the engine bay? My next job is to replace the 1.6 donor engine on my
car with something that sounds a bit 'more', so I'm always curious as to what big engines get squeezed into sevens.
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 21/9/26 at 12:16 PM |
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the typical fault for the alternator warning light is if you use an LED.
they usually require a 2W physical bulb
[Edited on 21/9/26 by gremlin1234]
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 21/9/26 at 12:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JAG
My car's been on the road for a while now...
But I've had similar issues with the Alternator Charge Light.
I've tried re-wiring it several different ways and I eventually replaced the Alternator. None of that fixed it!
Ive now disconnecetd the Charge Light and fitted a Voltmeter
I got a little digital device from Ebay for about £5
Any way I'd get booked in. If you fail at least you get a list of things to fix which should guarantee a pass at the next attempt
Thank you, that is good to know. I replaced the alternator too and I thought it was OK initially, but maybe I am miss-remembering it. I have a volt
meter on the dash too, so I can use this, but a nice red light is reassuring.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 21/9/26 at 12:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
the typical fault for the alternator warning light is if you use an LED.
they usually require a 2W physical bulb
[Edited on 21/9/26 by gremlin1234]
I hadn't thought of this, I will try it. I was sure it was working initially, potentially something else was wrong too!
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 21/9/26 at 01:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Just as an aside, what V6 are you using, and by any chance do you have a photo of the engine bay? My next job is to replace the 1.6 donor engine on my
car with something that sounds a bit 'more', so I'm always curious as to what big engines get squeezed into sevens.
I am using the AJ30 3.0L from a Jag S-Type. I was looking at all the options for a V6 and this seemed to be the best output per litre (once the
restrictive exhaust manifolds are changed) while also being one of the most compact. I got the whole car as about to fail the MOT for £300, so cheap
too. There are adapter plates for the Mazda RX8 gearbox which is what I am using. I have put the Ford ST200 upper inlet manifold on as it is low
profile and the X-Type sump as the S-Type has a big hammer head thing on the front.
Is there anything specific you want a photo of?
 
Engine 1
 
Engine 4
 
Engine 5
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Slimy38
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| posted on 21/9/26 at 01:08 PM |
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Very nice, thank you!! The AJ30 does seem to be a good choice engine, and it's useful to know about the ST200 manifold being low profile. It
doesn't look overly tight in there, certainly width wise it's bigger but still not too bad.
Did you have to do anything clever with the steering column? I'm guessing it runs parallel to the engine with some quite angled UJ's at the
bottom? I remember seeing one builder who had routed the column through the exhaust manifold!
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 21/9/26 at 01:26 PM |
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The steering column is standard MK, no modifications needed.
The starter motor and the clutch slave want to be in the same place, though raising the engine when I wanted more ground clearance has just about
solved this.
The RX8 gearbox needed to be amended in a few places, but now fits in the tunnel.
The alternator is in front of the engine as there is no space at the side.
The manifold needs adapters from the lower to the upper as they are slightly different shapes.
I had hoped to use the Rocketeer adapter plate as then I could have used to MX5 gearbox which would have fitted in the tunnel fine, but this is 30mm
thick and pushed the engine too far forward. The RX8 adapter is 10mm thick, but needs 10mm trimming off the bell housing so the overall displacement
is 0. It is also easier to purchase as Rocketeer are protective over their products.
It is a good fit, but there is no room for it to be moved anywhere other than where it is. I couldn't have accommodated anything bigger in this
chassis!
The other benefit of this engine is that it is nearly double the displacement of the MX5 1.8, but is about the same weight.
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adithorp
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| posted on 24/9/26 at 08:26 PM |
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Is your slternstoe actually charging?
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 25/9/26 at 03:45 PM |
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quote:
slternstoe
I think you may need to move your keyboard 5mm to right. ;-) (it's alternate position)
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 25/9/26 at 03:58 PM |
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Battery? I think so, I'm seeing 14v and the battery isn't struggling to start the engine. I have it on a CTEK though while not in use, so
I may not know if it inst charging. I will check it next time I turn it on.
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