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Author: Subject: 1st Gear Clunk
Ferrino

posted on 30/6/06 at 12:03 PM Reply With Quote
1st Gear Clunk

So I moved the car under it's own power (just into the garage!) and I am aware that there is supposed to be a clunk when you go from Neutral into 1st, to do with the dog engagement. But is it normal for the car to jolt forward ever so slightly when it engages (clutch pedal fully pressed)?

I thought that with the clutch fully disengaged that there was no way it could transmit to the prop?

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Howlor

posted on 30/6/06 at 12:05 PM Reply With Quote
Fairly normal. Bike clutch differs from a car clutch as when it is fully depressed it has to use the torque to separate the drive plates.

Steve

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skydivepaul

posted on 30/6/06 at 12:09 PM Reply With Quote
The car will normally clunk forward a little.
try this:
select neutral
depress the clutch and leave the the clutch in for about 20 - 30 seconds
selectfirst gear.
Mine will slip into first without a clunk when you do this, although it is not always practical when out driving.





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zxrlocost

posted on 30/6/06 at 12:14 PM Reply With Quote
mine sometimes clunks forward as above

and sometimes goes in so smooth you cant tell

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richijenkin

posted on 30/6/06 at 12:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by zxrlocost
mine sometimes clunks forward as above

and sometimes goes in so smooth you cant tell


Thats what my misses tells me sometimes.






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stevebubs

posted on 30/6/06 at 12:33 PM Reply With Quote
yup
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gary gsx

posted on 30/6/06 at 12:38 PM Reply With Quote
My bike does it its to do with the clutch plates as already been said its worse when chains loose but you dont have a chain
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stevec

posted on 30/6/06 at 12:53 PM Reply With Quote
Idle speed will also be a factor, The higher the idle speed the bigger chance of a clunk.
Steve.

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Coose

posted on 30/6/06 at 01:07 PM Reply With Quote
Yep, all of the above! My dry-clutched TZ250 does it dreadfully unless you almost stall it....

They all do that sir!
p.s. Glad you've finally had it moving!





Spin 'er off Well...

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Hellfire

posted on 30/6/06 at 03:27 PM Reply With Quote
Good news to get it under it's own power... ain't it great?

The clunk is typical but can be reduced by installing a TRT (Torque resiliant Tube) which is basically a cushion between your gearbox and differential. This will lead to increased life of your gearbox selectors and drive dogs which is always a mute point in BEC's.

The clunk into reverse shouldn't be a problem though

Steve






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tks

posted on 30/6/06 at 03:44 PM Reply With Quote
it will depend

on engine speed:
oil temp
engine temp

and offcourse clutch state...





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Peteff

posted on 30/6/06 at 05:01 PM Reply With Quote
a mute point in BEC's

It's a moot point as well, see here . My shaft drive bike does it but it's worse with the brake on as it tries to move the wheel so if you are rolling try to get into first then stop.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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tks

posted on 30/6/06 at 05:31 PM Reply With Quote
Its just

that in a bec its hard to become rolling...

on the bike your feets touch ground...

Tks





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zetec7

posted on 30/6/06 at 05:49 PM Reply With Quote
This is normal. My Kawasaki Concours does it, as have all my shaft-driven bikes. On chain-driven bikes it's sometimes not as noticable, becasue there's slack in the chain to be taken up...once it's shaft-driven, the clunk goes directly to the wheels. The clunk is from friction within the clutch basket & plates. It will be better when the oil is warm, worse when the engine is cold.
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Ferrino

posted on 30/6/06 at 10:19 PM Reply With Quote
Thankyou chaps! (BTW, I have a TRT in the rear prop).
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