locoboy
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 05:14 PM |
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Throttle/clutch cable
What cables have you used for your clutch and throttle on R1 installations?
Are the bilke cables long enough?
And would pushbike brake cable be man enough for the job?
Also whats the recommended method of attaching the cable to the pedal to avoid chafing etc?
[Edited on 28/8/06 by locoboy]
ATB
Locoboy
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Humbug
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 06:22 PM |
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I have a K Series not a BEC, but I used a bike cable for my throttle - no problems so far in 1500 miles
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esn163
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 07:01 PM |
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Hi,
we used a bike cable for the throttle - seems OK so far but not too sure that would be up to the job for the clutch so used the original bike clutch
cable since they are thicker - takes quite a bit of force to pull the clutch on a bike engine. You could probably use a solderless cable nipple to
attach to the pedal but we made our own out of a bolt with a small hole for the cable to go through and then trapped it between the head of the bolt
through the pedal and a washer either side of the cable - seems to work well so far
HTH
Ed
[Edited on 28/8/06 by esn163]
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MartinDB
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 07:21 PM |
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I've used a tandem cable for my throttle as there's not a lot of force involved.
I've used a bike clutch cable (cheers Ox) for the clutch as I wasn't sure if the original tandem cable was man enough.
I've used pushbike solderless cable nipples on both cables. The throttle cable's attached through my pedal arm as it was in the doner and
my clutch is a bit of a bodge, next time I'd use something like this.
Martin.
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JoelP
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 08:58 PM |
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i used a push bike cable on my zx9 for the clutch, it works fine. Only trouble is trying to stop it slipping though. Currently it has a drilled bolt,
and two brass things out of a junction box, but the absence of a bottom stop on the pedal means it gradually pulls through. Im gonna get a couple of
nipple for it soon, and make a proper stop. 
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locoboy
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 09:10 PM |
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Is a tandem cable just a cable from a tandem bicycle or is it actually a tandem (twin) cable?
ATB
Locoboy
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MartinDB
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 12:03 AM |
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Tandem as in 2 seater bike, but my engine's behind me, so it had to be long. I'm guess any push-bike rear brake cable would do for a front
engined car.
Martin.
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 07:09 AM |
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Hi Martin,
Just fitted my throttle cable last weekend and used a 2 metre universal bike brake cable from Clarks. £8 from Halfords but can be sourced cheaper
elsewhere.
As for the clutch cable I've gone for major overkill with a 4 series HP tension cable from www.cable-tec.co.uk. I then attached M5 rod ends and
used a direct cable routing to the clutch arm instead of right around the normal bike route. I can say that there is absolutely no flex in the cable
and it is very direct and smooth. I didn't want to compromise here as any flex could affect your ability to control an already very binary
clutch. Plus I doubled up on clutch diaphragm springs to give it a little more feedback.
I'm always a little paranoid about a clutch cable snapping so I thought I'd ere on the side of caution...
Chris.
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Ferrino
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 10:55 AM |
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I used bicycle cable for the throttle (a few quid for inner and outer from wiggle.co.uk - silky smooth!), with solderless nipple on pedal end and I
filed down the original bicycle nipple for the carb end.
For clutch, I swung the little lever on the engine around 180 degrees and used the original Yamaha clutch cable outer and inner. Had to weld a bracket
on my engine mounts to hold the adjuster. The advantage of swinging the lever around 180 degrees is that you get a shorter and straighter run from the
pedals. To attach the clutch cable inner to the clutch pedal, I drilled a hole through the shank of an M8 bolt, fed the cable through, and you then
tighten it against the pedal using a nut on t'other end. Works very well!
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JoelP
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 03:44 PM |
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good idea turning it round, my cable has to loop in front of the engine to pull via the normal sleeve holder.
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