jabbahutt
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 posted on 14/9/06 at 05:26 PM |
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earthing
If I have a powder coated chassis am I correct in thibkibg that to create a decent earth I just need to remove the power coat and attach the relevent
lead to the bare metal?
What is the best method of securing, I was thinking of drilling a small hole and using a self taping screw then a smear of petroleum jelly.
Am I barking up the wrong tree?
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caber
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 05:34 PM |
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Yes remove all traces of powder coat but I would not use a self tap. You could use a nut sert or drill all the way through and use a nut and bolt. If
youare powdercpated the option of welding a nut onto the chassis is a non starter. Basically you should aim for the largest area of contact through
the entire assembly and tighten it down hard.
caber
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nitram38
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 06:26 PM |
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Another option is to use a rivnut and bolt.
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 06:31 PM |
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does anyone know if the demon tweeks rivnut gun £45 approx can handle steel rivnuts as at present I'm only using aluminium which isn't a
good conductor is it?
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StevieB
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 06:35 PM |
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Regardless, you'll get a rivnut gun cheaper elsewhere anyway!
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graememk
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 06:46 PM |
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aluminium is a better conductor than steel, i've used a rivnut and a big bolt
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tks
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 07:14 PM |
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..
if we not take the expensive materials into acount then
its Coppper
Aluminium..
in that order..
Power cords are many times made of aluminium because they weight less!!
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 07:23 PM |
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Wouldn't drilling and tapping the Chassis give better contact that a rivnut?
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k33ts
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 07:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MkIndy7
Wouldn't drilling and tapping the Chassis give better contact that a rivnut?
i agree much better way
tukcustoms.com
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StevieB
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 07:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by k33ts
quote:
Originally posted by MkIndy7
Wouldn't drilling and tapping the Chassis give better contact that a rivnut?
i agree much better way
I'd have thought this would only be the best way where you can get a nut onto the other side to give a tighter, more secure connection (and alos
increase the contact area for a good earth). If not, then surely rivnut is the best (if you take up all the powder coating so the whole rivnut is in
contact with the chassis)
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wilkingj
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 07:48 PM |
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Just weld a short piece of 2mm x 12mm of a suitable length and drill a hole through it then use a Nut and Bolt.
Look in my archive under Earth strap.
For the odd earthwires, I use steel Rivnuts. I would not use Alluminium it forms an oxide coating. We tried Alluminium cables on BT many years ago,
and in the end ripped them all out. The joints were a major problem due to said oxides. Even using special jelly filled serrated crimps it was still a
long term isssue.
Drill and Self Tappers are OK, but use a decent blob of heavy grease. Also Dont site your earth points where they can get wet, ie spray from the
wheels etc.. find a dry corner and run the wire to there. Less water means better joints and more reliability.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 07:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MkIndy7
Wouldn't drilling and tapping the Chassis give better contact that a rivnut?
I'd have thought this would only be the best way where you can get a nut onto the other side to give a tighter, more secure connection (and alos
increase the contact area for a good earth). If not, then surely rivnut is the best (if you take up all the powder coating so the whole rivnut is in
contact with the chassis)
When you Tap the Chassis you have the surface area of the threads in complete contact with the chassis and also the area under the bolt head.
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caber
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 08:18 PM |
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DO NOT use alluminium rivnuts or nutserts for earth! There is a strong electrolytic reaction between aluminium and steel as soon as the metals get wet
and you try and drive a current through them you will get very rapid corrosion and very quickly no aluminium rivnut. In my original post I suggested
nutserts, these are steel rivnuts!
Caber
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nitram38
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 08:31 PM |
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I have used bzp steel rivnuts as earths (they don't rust). When you put them in, the back of the rivnut expands and grips the unpainted, inside
of the box section.
I have n't had any earthing issues.
You can even get stud rivnuts so that you have a thread to put a nut on.
I bought my setting tool for £80 from capital supplies in croydon. It came with tools for 4mm, 6mm, 8mm & 10mm rivnuts and rivnut studs.
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JoelP
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 08:52 PM |
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i would always where possible weld a bolt in head first before powdercoating. Surely unbeatable?
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davew823
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| posted on 14/9/06 at 10:43 PM |
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Rivnut grounding
The trouble or problems with using a rivnut for electrical grounding usually does not surface for several years. Typically it is at least 2 or 3 years
before the oxide or corrosive effects will start causing electrical problems. That's why it took Ferrari five years before they issued a recall.
If you have an older build that should be one of the first things to verify if you start having electrical problems and the electrical system is
grounded thru rivnuts. Grounded thru bolts Dave
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nick205
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| posted on 15/9/06 at 08:01 AM |
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jabba
After thouroughly cleaning the paint away, top and bottom I drilled a 10.5mm dia hole through the Indy chassis engine mounting plate, which s 3mm
steel plate well and truly welded by MK over the 2 lower engine bay chassis rails. I've then used an M10 nut and bolt with star washers to tie
all my earths to the chassis and covered with a blob of petroleum jelly for protection. I don't have any earth problems at all with this
set-up.
IMO the rivnut and self tapping method do not provide good reliable long term earth bonds.
HTH
Nick
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