Paul G
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 09:54 AM |
|
|
R1 dynojetted - still crap
Morning all,
Finally got round to fitting the TTS dynojet kit for an R1 BEC yesterday. followed the instructions, blocked the relevant holes off and used 144
mains, needles on 2nd notch, mixture at 3.25 turns out. The cars got a foam sausage filter and mk exhaust. Tried it after it was fitted and its made
hardly any difference, It still bogs down for a few seconds after I floor it like its almost going to stall at times, and then takes off like a turbo
kicking in.
Does anyone have any ideas what to do now, I cant get it to a rolling road. Could it be the baffles in the MK exhaust or is it running too rich. It
pops and bangs on overrun. Was thinking about getting a straight through race can or just take the can off to test it and see if its any better.
Somebody suggested putting masking tape over parts of the filter as a test to see if its any better - if this was the case what would I have to do to
fix it permenantly?
I'd appreciate any ideas cos I'm getting pissed off with it now!
Paul
|
|
|
|
|
StevieB
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:03 AM |
|
|
I wouldn't bother with the race can for a test - a very expensive way of finding ou it makes a difference or not!
As for the masking tape permanent fix - leave the tape on if it works.
|
|
|
Paul G
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:09 AM |
|
|
I might just do that but it just seems a bit of a bodge leaving the tape on, I was thinking the tape would allow less air in and if that made it
better it must have been running too lean so what would I have to do to permantly fix it - put the 150 mains in? I had 150's in it before
albeit with the standard needles and it still had the same problem of being slow on the take up.
Also I've got no trumpets on the carbs but I wouldnt have thought that it would have caused this effect.
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:12 AM |
|
|
put the needles as high as they will go, that should improve matters, then consider upping the jet size...
ie circlip in bottom groove on needle
[Edited on 22/9/06 by G.Man]
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:14 AM |
|
|
I tried 4 different needle setting for two main jet sizes for slow speed (3000 RPM and less) and high speed (3000 - 12000 RPM) at low medium and high
throttle in all legal gears. I tried rolling the power on and snapping it on. then I made a table with all my results. I rated each test as good,
meduim or bad.
Some tests were dreadful and I just gave up. some where marginal, so I tried the next setting along.
Only one combination of setting gave me good results under all conditions: 140 mains with the richest needle setting.
You have to set the carbs up for your exahaust and your filter. The settings quoted by TTS are the most common but it may not suit your car.
|
|
|
Paul G
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:16 AM |
|
|
Cheers for the replies, what kinds of exhausts are you running do you know if these baffles are the problem?
I just spoke to tts and they said it must be running too rich because my exhaust is too restrictive and killing the power, so I either need to go to
140 mains or even 136 (they said they would send some free of charge), or for best overall perfomance change the can and stick with 144s.
[Edited on 22/9/06 by Paul G]
|
|
|
skydivepaul
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:16 AM |
|
|
after my rolling road session i asked the lads what settings they had ended up with. My R1 has a TTS jet kit with all the relevent holes blocked,
pipercross filter and MK exhaust system.
mains 148
needles on leanest setting - top groove
pulls great from any rpm.
125bhp @ wheels
cheers
Paul
http://www.smartideasuk.com
http://www.smartmapping.co.uk
HD CCTV
3D design solutions and integration
IP security systems
access control systems
|
|
|
Coose
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:27 AM |
|
|
The TTS kit is very good - I fitted mine as per Rich Miles' Striker and have never needed to touch it! Mine is similar to yours but with the
needles in the third groove from the top. Are you in the 2nd from the top or from the bottom? Needle positions are always relative to the top
notch....
Have you bloked the correct pilot hole?
I use a made-to-measure 4-2-1 manifold based on the All-Bike Euro sidecar chimberley.
Spin 'er off Well...
|
|
|
Paul G
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:29 AM |
|
|
Hi - yes got the right holes blocked, it wouldnt run at all when I temporarily blocked the other hole! The clips are 2nd position down from the blunt
end
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:31 AM |
|
|
If you are running a near stock system, then you should run the stock settings and just raise the needles...
It will be lean in the midrange due to removal of the exup valve..
Thats where the needles count, the sausage filter makes very little difference over stock...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
|
|
|
Paul G
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:37 AM |
|
|
But is it not running rich with it bogging down when I boot it and the pops and bangs on overrun? Oh I'm just confused now!
|
|
|
Coose
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:53 AM |
|
|
Try raising the needles a notch at a time as it sounds to be more needle related than main jet.
Spin 'er off Well...
|
|
|
ecosse
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:56 AM |
|
|
Just a thought, but have you checked the diaphrams in the carb tops (I'm presuming they are CV type carbs)?
I had a bike once that had similar problems, the diaphrams were badly worn and were allowing the slides to slam full open on opening the throttle, it
caused a massive flat spot at low revs but went like a missile once the revs built up.
Cheers
Alex
PS
Too rich can cause popping and banging on the overrun, so can air leaks in or around the exhaust manifold, also check cam and ignition timing (that
tied it down nicely then! )
|
|
|
givemethebighammer
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 10:57 AM |
|
|
I have blackbird carbs on my zetec and these instructions
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
helped a lot (two sets there - lower and higher rpm engines)
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 11:42 AM |
|
|
I was running the standard needles and jets with an open can when I first built the car. It ran better and better the more I moved the standard
needles towards the richest position. It was fine with a half open throttle but was rought at full throttle with the richest needle setting.
With 1 size larger mains, it is fine.
Are you running a standard R1 can? This is a bit restrictive (but quiet). You may not need larger mains with that can.
|
|
|
Paul G
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 11:45 AM |
|
|
Hi - I've got the MK exhaust and can on at the moment.
|
|
|
Ferrino
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 02:40 PM |
|
|
Sorry to ask this but why can't you take it to a rolling road like TTS? It's not too expensive and will stop you pulling your hair out!
|
|
|
Paul G
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 03:15 PM |
|
|
Its not the cost its the hassle and distance and then I'd have to get a trailer and a car to tow it with. If there was a rolling road near me
who could set it up I'd be there in a shot!
Cheers for all the suggestions though fellas, I'll have a go at it tomorrow maybe with a bit of trial and error I'll get it sorted
|
|
|
froggy
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 04:01 PM |
|
|
have you tried mikeanichs in congleton he does power runs pretty cheap and at least you can see what is going on on his wideband afr doodad
|
|
|
Paul G
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 04:08 PM |
|
|
No mate I didnt know there was a rolling road there, cheers for the info though if I dont have any luck over the weekend I'll give them a ring
|
|
|
rf900rush
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 09:30 PM |
|
|
Hi
I know how you feel.
I used a Suzuki RF900 Engine and was totally undriveable.
I was advised to get some spare main jets and a set of drills (0.1mm steps) and increase the jet size slowly.
I managed to get this to the point of fairly driveable, but not much power above 8000rpm.
Getting to some one like TTS for a rolling road was difficult.
So I thought I'd try Megasquirt EFI to avoid going to a rolling road.
Bad Idea! Great system but try tuning it on the road with the school runs etc.
I then tried putting on the bikes carbs back on and the bike's airbox. Wow the best it ran, But I can not see past the airbox.
The only thing I've learnt is It's proberbly best to get it Set up on a decent rolling road.
Martin
|
|
|
Paul G
|
| posted on 23/9/06 at 12:58 PM |
|
|
Well I've had a play with it today - I kept it all the same as it was with the needles on 2 and 144 jets, masking taped over half the air filter
and it went like a rocket with instant throttle response it was mint. I guessed that meant it was running too lean so put 150 mains in and its almost
as good as the 144s with masking tape. Tried masking tape with the 150s and it was a bit worse so I'm assuming it is a bit too rich now. Any
suggestions as to what this may be pointing to would be appreciated - do I need to get hold of some 148 jets or do the needles need to go up or
down?
cheers
Paul
|
|
|
skydivepaul
|
| posted on 23/9/06 at 11:11 PM |
|
|
Paul, I buggered about with mine for ages and couldnt get the settings right. Thats why i went for the rolling road set up just to be sure i wasnt
leaning the engine out too much. The final settings for mine after the rolling road session were 148 main jets and the needle on the leanest clip.
cheers
Paul
http://www.smartideasuk.com
http://www.smartmapping.co.uk
HD CCTV
3D design solutions and integration
IP security systems
access control systems
|
|
|
