barraw
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| posted on 10/2/07 at 04:23 PM |
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Fitting a fresh crossflow
Hello,
next weekend I will be removing the 1700 crossflow from my westfield and fitting a fresh new 1640 engine. I've never done an engine swap before
but looking forward to it. Gone through it in my mind a few times, and the only thing I can't figure out is the clutch cable - do I need to
detach that before separating the engine and gearbox? If so, how?
thanks
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worX
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| posted on 10/2/07 at 05:02 PM |
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I've never done it on a crossflow, so if someone else responds differently then take their word for it!!! but:
I would imagine that it would be a case of just sliding it out of the bracket thats on the side of the engine before it enters the bell housing to go
to clutch arm.
to do so, I would imagine that you just need to depress the clutch (on the pedal) and then hold the arm close to the bracket with
molegrip/zipties/however you want! and then just pull the cable free from the bracket...
hth
Steve.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 10/2/07 at 05:10 PM |
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You almost certainly will need to disconnect the clutch cable - the outer is threaded through a hole in a bit of metal that either belongs to the
engine or the bellhousing (can't remember which!). The inner is hooked through the operating arm - to remove, loosen the adjuster, unhook from
the arm, pull the whole thing out. Depending on the previous owner you might have to undo 1 adjustment/lock nut.
It's so easy to do that it would be better just to get it out of the way while you change the engine (presuming that you are lifting just the
engine out).
David
BTW: it's really easy to take a crossflow out - just disconnect everything, take of all vulnerable bits, separate from the bellhousing &
pull it forward. Main concern is not to let the engine hang from the gearbox, or vice-versa, while the bellhousing bolts are apart; keep them in
line, then pull apart.
[Edited on 10/2/07 by David Jenkins]
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barraw
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| posted on 10/2/07 at 07:53 PM |
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Thanks fellas, I'll let you know how i get on.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 10/2/07 at 08:03 PM |
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May seem obvious but make sure that the clutch is aligned before you try to refit the engine
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 10/2/07 at 08:48 PM |
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Yes - what he said! 
The nice thing about crossflows is that they're just giant meccano sets - just a few basic tools and you can do almost anything. 
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barraw
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| posted on 2/4/07 at 11:22 AM |
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Well, it went in and runs ok, but I have a problem.
It's fitted with a stage 2 head, a Piper Ultimate Road Cam and stainless steel rocker posts. When I started it, it went thud thud thud - not
good. It turned out that the cam was lifting higher than the valve springs would compress. I had gapped the rockers to 0.14" as specified by
piper, but that's no where near enough gap.
I opened the gaps to 0.24" and the valves now open without bottoming out the valve springs.
Any idea why piper say 0.14" and it needs much larger gap? I'm thinking that maybe I have high-lift rocker arms. If so, what gap should
I space them to?
The engine is ticking over fine with the gaps set to 0.24" but i can here the valves ticking (although quietly). I may be paranoid now, but
0.24" is just a guess and I would prefer something a little more scientific.
thanks
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barraw
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| posted on 2/4/07 at 11:23 AM |
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BTW it's a Piper BP 285 Ultimate Road Cam.
thanks
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/4/07 at 07:08 PM |
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The Piper 285 needs valve pockets cut into the pistons for clearance, also you should be using the matching piper valve springs. I suspect you may
have valve to piston contact. The correct way to test is to remove head and place plasticine on top of pistons, refit head and turn engine over by
hand. Remove head and measure thickness of plasticine. Might be worth removing plugs and inserting a thick piece of solder (at least 60 thou thick )
through plug hole and work it so it goes under valve , turn engine over a couple of times , remove solder and measure. Repeat for all valves. I have
a new 285 cam that I didn't use because of all the extra hassle
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barraw
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| posted on 2/4/07 at 07:15 PM |
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That's worrying!!!! The Cam came out of my previous engine which didn't have pocketed pistons. The piper cam website says the no
machining is required:
http://www.pipercams.org/NewPiperWeb/redesign/PiperCamFrames.html
I've got the matched piper double valve springs and retainers.
What you say has echoed my fears.
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barraw
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| posted on 2/4/07 at 07:27 PM |
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Are these standard or machined pistons?
http://wayne.barraclough.googlepages.com/DSC00012.JPG
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/4/07 at 07:36 PM |
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Can't say for sure but they look standard to me . I would double check the Piper site as I'm sure they need pockets
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bartonp
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| posted on 3/4/07 at 08:32 AM |
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Useful xflow resource:
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/cflow.htm
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