R1 STRIKER
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| posted on 24/4/07 at 01:34 PM |
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How easy to change R1 clutch?
As title says. How easy is it and what parts do i need? (5pw) Just starting to slip a bit so want to get it changed before stoneleigh. I'vealso
got a barnett spring kit to fit at same time. Does this make any differnce?
Dealer here is next to useless for parts!
Thanks,
Ben.
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smart51
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| posted on 24/4/07 at 01:53 PM |
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I have a 1998 4XV engine. It should be about the same. It is dead easy.
1) disconnect the clutch cable
2) undo about 12 bolts holding the clutch cover - you'll need a 5mm allen key
3) pull the cover off. You'll probably need a new gasket
4) Using a 10mm socket, undo the 6 bolts holding the pressure plate and remove
5) slide out the clutch plates. There is a wire circlip holding the last few plates
Fitting is the reverse. You have to align the toothed clutch release puller into the hole on the cover but it isn't too tricky. Check that the
dots on the clutch arm line up and fit all the cover's bolts.
[Edited on 24-4-2007 by smart51]
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skydivepaul
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| posted on 24/4/07 at 01:56 PM |
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drain engine oil first though
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smart51
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| posted on 24/4/07 at 01:58 PM |
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On my engine you don't need to drain the oil.
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Headrush
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 posted on 24/4/07 at 01:59 PM |
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Very easy if you have enough room to move the clutch cover out & off. The Barnett spring conversion does work to help stop slip, but for god sake
dont use their kevlar friction set as it's shite. Go for a set of genuine yamaha clutch frictions and steels and soak it in engine oil for
24hours. My barnett kevlar set lasted ~200 miles then I had to flush the engine about 4 times to remove the bits of kevlar that broke away. kevlar
clutches appear to allow no wear unlike the cork ones.
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R1 STRIKER
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| posted on 24/4/07 at 02:20 PM |
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Had heard there clutches weren't up to much. so am just going to use genuine parts. Expected there to be a kit but my local bike dealer only
lists all the parts seperatley. Which bits do I want? Already got new gasket.
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joetait
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 posted on 24/4/07 at 03:06 PM |
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Fluke Motorsport
I got mine from Fluke Motorsport - it comes as a complete kit to convert from the original diaphram spring to using 6 coil springs with a new alloy
basket.
https://www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=17&products_id=178
They also have a good installation guide for the R1 engine online.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 24/4/07 at 03:48 PM |
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Fitting the Barnett conversion isn't any harder than fitting the old pressure plate back on. Ive not tried any others but Id also recommend OEM
Yamaha plates, mine is still running on the original plates that came with the (4k mile) 5PW engine, no hint of slip although it probably only done
1000-1500 miles since I fitted it!
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